TPMS recommendations

Andrew Shadow said:
Quite a bit of real estate between these two statements. Is this a case of two different FOBO models?
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I have no idea why there's a difference in our experiences. I've never had to move roll or ride the bike to get a reading of the tire pressure. It's the main reason I chose FOBO. If I had to bump or roll the bike in anyway it would be a deal breaker.

Sadly none of the many reviews I've read or watched nor the instruction manual tell you how to check the PSI. They show it displayed but not how to get there. Seriously? But...


...shows the caps being removed and replaced so I infer this matches my experience of the bike not being moved to check pressures. From my personal extensive experience with this system and the lack of any reviewer or manual mention of having to bump or roll the bike my statement stands.



This video does mention checking pressures without having to ride the bike first. I infer that means not moving the bike with the FOBO 2 system. In either video it's possible that moving the caps as part of the installation is the equivalent of moving the bike. But if you had to do that to any degree to get a reading I'd think the instruction manual would make a point of doing that.

It's really disappointing that the specific operation of the kit is ignored by almost everybody.

As long as I'm in BT range I can open the app and see the last known tire pressure. Then I refresh and the current pressures are show. This is without touching or moving the bike. I haven't checked the firmware but have the latest version of the iOS app.

One problem I've seen with two F2 kits is the included batteries have very short life spans. The app shows battery life and none of four batteries were > 50% out of the box. Replacement with Everyready batteries gave me a little over a year of use.

Maybe a firmware update has changed the operation. As a BT device I'm sure the caps are "always On" waiting to respond to an inquiry.
 
ST Gui said:
I have no idea why there's a difference in our experiences. I've never had to move roll or ride the bike to get a reading of the tire pressure. It's the main reason I chose FOBO. If I had to bump or roll the bike in anyway it would be a deal breaker.

Sadly none of the many reviews I've read or watched nor the instruction manual tell you how to check the PSI. They show it displayed but not how to get there. Seriously? But...


...shows the caps being removed and replaced so I infer this matches my experience of the bike not being moved to check pressures. From my personal extensive experience with this system and the lack of any reviewer or manual mention of having to bump or roll the bike my statement stands.



This video does mention checking pressures without having to ride the bike first. I infer that means not moving the bike with the FOBO 2 system. In either video it's possible that moving the caps as part of the installation is the equivalent of moving the bike. But if you had to do that to any degree to get a reading I'd think the instruction manual would make a point of doing that.

It's really disappointing that the specific operation of the kit is ignored by almost everybody.

As long as I'm in BT range I can open the app and see the last known tire pressure. Then I refresh and the current pressures are show. This is without touching or moving the bike. I haven't checked the firmware but have the latest version of the iOS app.

One problem I've seen with two F2 kits is the included batteries have very short life spans. The app shows battery life and none of four batteries were > 50% out of the box. Replacement with Everyready batteries gave me a little over a year of use.

Maybe a firmware update has changed the operation. As a BT device I'm sure the caps are "always On" waiting to respond to an inquiry.
Click to expand...
I’m one of those didn’t read the manual guys, did it come with one. There may have very well been a firmware update that I didn’t do. The front usually is up pretty quick after I open the app, the rear does what it wants. I think I even swapped them with the same result. However, since I saw your post and @Andrew Shadow I checked a few times, matter of fact, let’s check now… opening the app, 6s for front, 20s for the rear. That has been true for a few days now.

Previously even running on the highway the rear could take minutes to update. Maybe it’s all the stuff in between, or I’m going so fast the rear is out of the bt field and I drive into the front’s bt field. :rofl1:

I didn’t update the app for probably 6mos or longer, because it’s a tpms and nothing new should have happened since it was engineered. I have updated it recently and will keep a close watch( I really won’t). I did change the batteries less than 2 mos ago because it wouldn’t register at all.

I have no reservations about recommending the product though. It does what it should even if I have to roll the bike once in a while before I leave.

*edit I’m rereading your post, I didn’t know you could “refresh”. I’ll try that.
 
I use the Sykik 300…I have them on all 3 bikes- I have had to replace a couple of the monitor units over the years but you can buy just the monitor for $28 (well, that’s what it was when I last bought one) and didn’t have to swap out the tire sensors. I didn’t want a phone related one as I normally don’t have my phone in a dash holder. I agree to swap to metal tire stems (I have the 88 degree type that are solidly mounted to the wheel- I think Kurvey Gurl brand which are essentially the same as the Ariete valves).
 
Erdoc48 said:
I use the Sykik 300…I have them on all 3 bikes- I have had to replace a couple of the monitor units over the years but you can buy just the monitor for $28 (well, that’s what it was when I last bought one) and didn’t have to swap out the tire sensors. I didn’t want a phone related one as I normally don’t have my phone in a dash holder. I agree to swap to metal tire stems (I have the 88 degree type that are solidly mounted to the wheel- I think Kurvey Gurl brand which are essentially the same as the Ariete valves).
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The only Curvy Girl valves I've seen are the longish L-shaped stems. I thought I saw a pic of these as valve stems. But that shape is also common to valve extensions that screw onto the bike's stems.

These are for temporary use only when filling a tire and should be removed after filling. The extra weight hung off to the side with or without a TPMS cap on the end are certain death for a bike's rubber valve stems. Possibly ok on a 18-wheeler? Dunno. But not for a bike.

And if I'm gonna cruise at 150mph I don't what a weight hanging off even a metal stem.

ST1100Y said:
Yeah... like physics...

The plain reason I would only go for internal sensors, nor strap any contraptions to the valve stems... :

tire valve physics.jpg
Click to expand...

Speaking of physics... A question. Are the rotational forces (centrifugal/centripetal) linear as acceleration increases or logarithmic or exponential? I ask because I wonder to what degree if any rotational forces have on the valve core. How much would the pin weight at 150mph and above?

Do F1 or MotoGP vehicles need extra strong valve core springs or "race-rated" valve caps? Those tires may see somewhat higher air pressure than our bikes on the street. Does that affect the valve core's operation.

More importantly to me is how much rotational force is a vertical valve stem subjected to with an 8g TMPS cap at 70mph?

Inquiring minds.

Willsmotorcycle said:
I’m one of those didn’t read the manual guys, did it come with one.
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It did with mine. It's also available online.


I emailed FOBO Support ( tpms@e-mission.eu ) yesterday and surprisingly got a response only minutes later. I didn't ask permission to post it but I have no qualms in doing so if necessary. The pertinent text is:

In answer to your question:

No, you do not need to move the bike for the pressures to show up in the app. You will receive updated readings as soon as you enter Blue Tooth range of the sensors. It can work through walls but is dependent on many factors. By a window would work better.

Please let me know if you have any other concerns or questions. I will be happy to do my best to answer them.

Kind regards,
A source close to the investigation.


Ok so I added that last bit.

I'd contact FOBO at tpms@e-mission.eu and see if they can work some kind of out of warranty consideration. Though you've managed this long it might not be worth your time. I'd roll the dice though. Cuz that's how I roll.
 
DeanR said:
HawksHead sensors on KurveyGirl 83 degree 11.3mm Bridgeport (Ariete) Valve stems here, for many years.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Back when I was looking for a cheaper price all KG had was the L-extensions and maybe L-stems but no Ariete/Bridgeport style.
 
I have the FOBO system and 83 degree silver valve stems from Kurvy Girl, the best $$ I've ever spent on the ST. Great peace of mind as I check PSI occasionally when under way and I like not having to put the bike on the center stand on long trips and get on my knees to check the pressures. I'm lazy and old now so this really helps.
 
ST Gui said:
... I wonder to what degree if any rotational forces have on the valve core ...
Click to expand...
... hmm, some quick search showed that someone calculated aprox 930g on the valve core @ 140mph ...
But it ain't centrifugal forces I'm worried about, it are bangs and hammering when passing over cobblestone, cracks, bumps and potholes...
Which is why I only use short TL412 valve stems on motorcycle wheels...
 
Thanks again everyone for your input. I always appreciate the advice of people with much more experience and knowledge than I have in a given area. I’ll be mulling over this info and hopefully making a decision soon.
 
ST Gui said:
I have no idea why there's a difference in our experiences. I've never had to move roll or ride the bike to get a reading of the tire pressure. It's the main reason I chose FOBO. If I had to bump or roll the bike in anyway it would be a deal breaker.

Sadly none of the many reviews I've read or watched nor the instruction manual tell you how to check the PSI. They show it displayed but not how to get there. Seriously? But...


...shows the caps being removed and replaced so I infer this matches my experience of the bike not being moved to check pressures. From my personal extensive experience with this system and the lack of any reviewer or manual mention of having to bump or roll the bike my statement stands.



This video does mention checking pressures without having to ride the bike first. I infer that means not moving the bike with the FOBO 2 system. In either video it's possible that moving the caps as part of the installation is the equivalent of moving the bike. But if you had to do that to any degree to get a reading I'd think the instruction manual would make a point of doing that.

It's really disappointing that the specific operation of the kit is ignored by almost everybody.

As long as I'm in BT range I can open the app and see the last known tire pressure. Then I refresh and the current pressures are show. This is without touching or moving the bike. I haven't checked the firmware but have the latest version of the iOS app.

One problem I've seen with two F2 kits is the included batteries have very short life spans. The app shows battery life and none of four batteries were > 50% out of the box. Replacement with Everyready batteries gave me a little over a year of use.

Maybe a firmware update has changed the operation. As a BT device I'm sure the caps are "always On" waiting to respond to an inquiry.
Click to expand...
I have had fobo2 for a number of years. I can open the app on my iPhone and see present pressures right from my lazy boy chair. They have been great. Change batteries every spring.
 
Geeman said:
I have had fobo2 for a number of years. I can open the app on my iPhone and see present pressures right from my lazy boy chair. They have been great. Change batteries every spring.
Click to expand...
I'm assuming metal valve stems are recommended?
 
Nitesail said:
I'm assuming metal valve stems are recommended?
Click to expand...
I think prudence on the side of caution would recommend them with external sensors.
I use 75 degree(?) metal stems and have had no issues at all over many 100,000s of miles between multiple ST1100s.
I also do not use the t-stems as I just leave the 'lock' off the sensor caps.
That way they work just like regular valve caps when you need to add air.
Haven't lost one yet either! ;)
And when you think about it, when was the last time a valve stem cap came flying off a tire valve stem on you? :biggrin:
 
Uncle Phil said:
I also do not use the t-stems as I just leave the 'lock' off the sensor caps.
That way they work just like regular valve caps when you need to add air.
Click to expand...
Regarding those 'locks'. It's just a thin nut. I stopped using the wrench a long time ago and only snug them up by hand. Don't even know why I leave them on, as I don't know what they are, or were. 'locking'.
 
DeanR said:
Regarding those 'locks'. It's just a thin nut. I stopped using the wrench a long time ago and only snug them up by hand. Don't even know why I leave them on, as I don't know what they are, or were. 'locking'.
Click to expand...
AFAIK, they were supposed to secure the cap so it doesn't come off and no one can steal them.
 
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