Trailer Ideas

rwthomas1 said:
Has anyone ever built a one-wheel with the wheel under the compartment, maybe 30% or so from the back? Have the wheel in a "well" up into the interior of the trailer? I know this would take some storage space, but allowing loading behind the wheel means the trailer could be balanced very easily. That and add a "gooseneck" bend to the tongue, so the trailer sits flat? If the trailer was low and flat it would likely tow better with a lower CG and optimum loading. Dunno why I'm reading this thread, I don't need a trailer. But this makes me want one....

RT
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Yes I've seen them in DIY trailers. Harder to access the wheel for servicing. I'll try to find an image I have somewhere. It's a single wheel trailer with a car carrier on top of it. The single wheel patially comes up inside the carrier in the center is is covered with a metal or plastic shroud to keep the inside dry. I'd think though it would be very prone to tip if not loaded equally. Interesting idea though, but not practical in my mind.

Other options - Partially inside and to the rear (not DIY)
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A centered-ish wheel with storage on the outsides (think panniers on a trailer frame)
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Similar bicycle ones by Extrawheel
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A reverse wheelbarrow setup.
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An interesting idea is a 3 wheeled motorcycle trailer, based of some European bicycle trailers. The load is spread over 3 wheels and the tongue weight is negligible.
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With the weight supported the motorcycle just needs to do the pulling (the bicycle trailer above has an electric hub option) and stopping (unless fitted with electric brakes.

A prime example of this is motorcycle tow trucks.

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But this is way off topic and down a rabbit hole.
 
Some of those are real similar to what I had in mind. A lot of the single wheel trailers I had seen had the wheel WWAAAYYY back there. Tucked in just under the tail makes more sense, to me anyway!
 
So, talk about luck, replacing my fence at home, met a guy who said he had some fence panels to sell, I should have a look. Went over to see them, and great, I'll save about $400. While there I spot a small trailer frame, so I ask about it, he says, you buy the panels, I'll give you the trailer, will need a lot of work, but will definitely be a starting point
I'll post a pic soon
 
Santa brought an early gift, going to be a lot of work. First step, pull it all apart, cut and narrow axle and frame, replace bearings, wheels and tires, replace U bolts with proper square U bolts. (Can of spray paint for scale) it was a one man boat trailer 20221022_080912.jpg20221022_080843.jpg
 
If you cut 6.5 out of the rear section, I would section and simply over lap for strength. The forward rails are a bit more tricky, but equal amounts removed while maintaining that angle will get you there. This will shorten the tongue a bit, by eye I'd guess no more than 5", and that isn't a bad thing using the TLAR method. The important part will be keeping the rails where the springs attach perfectly parallel. Cool project.
 
RichKat said:
Doing some measuring this morning, I'll need to narrow it about 6½ inches. I want the box to sit on the rails and 6½" will line up perfectly. 20221023_085352.jpg
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While you are calculating... My (our) saddlebags are 32 in wide. Most doorways are 32 in wide.
I have no clue how wide your rooftop igloo is. Don't know if any of that matters. Keep going!
 
The box is 30" wide, so that plus tires and fenders will be around 40" wide and somewhere around 7' long
 
rwthomas1 said:
If you cut 6.5 out of the rear section, I would section and simply over lap for strength. The forward rails are a bit more tricky, but equal amounts removed while maintaining that angle will get you there. This will shorten the tongue a bit, by eye I'd guess no more than 5", and that isn't a bad thing using the TLAR method. The important part will be keeping the rails where the springs attach perfectly parallel. Cool project.
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I'm stripping everything off the rails and I can use the flat outside to stand it on its side and mark a parallel line to the front to trim equal
 
Am easier way would be to lay a board, ripped to the 6.5", down the middle. Centered front and rear, will give the correct cut angles at the front. Easy.
 
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