i read that most of the time you adjust the valves on the st1100 they dont really need it. since the adjustment is pretty expensive, i wondered if there were any warning noises etc that would let you know it needed to be done?
valve adjustment question
- Thread starter oldamigos
- Start date
Really not much in the way of noise... you just have to check them to see if they need it. The 1100 is not very hard to do because the cams are gear driven and there is no chain to move out of the way. The valves are shimmed, so to change the adjustment, you have to change the shim. The shims are located under the valve bucket the cam has to be removed to remove the buckets. The most critical part is paying attention to the timing marks on the crank indicator and the index marks on the cam gear.
I was wondering the same thing. If there is some type of warning why bother?
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BakerBoy
It's all small stuff.
The presence of any noise would be dire.
Checking is easy... just get a factory service manual and follow the procedure. If adjustment is necessary and you don't feel confident enough to do the shim changes, you could request the help of a nearby experienced member or take it to a dealer for shim changes.
Checking is easy... just get a factory service manual and follow the procedure. If adjustment is necessary and you don't feel confident enough to do the shim changes, you could request the help of a nearby experienced member or take it to a dealer for shim changes.
Now have 175,000 km. on my '95. I have found no change in the clearances since @50,000 km, but the last time I checked was 7 years ago at 132,000 km. I'll be checking them again next winter. This is the norm with most 1100's - BUT - we don't know your mileage or when they were last checked. As mentioned, the clearances are not difficult to check yourself, but a deft touch with a feeler gauge is important to ensure you are reading it correctly. NOT having them checked periodically could end you up with a major engine repair, costing a whole lot more than a simple inspection would cost.
Dave 1949
If the valves are to tight and you need a lesser thicknessshim measure the
shim with a micrometer then use a oil stone to reduce theshim a few thou
at a time or the equivalent in metric check the shim with micrometeras you
go .this is the way we have done race and performanceengines for years save s
sending away for shims
shim with a micrometer then use a oil stone to reduce theshim a few thou
at a time or the equivalent in metric check the shim with micrometeras you
go .this is the way we have done race and performanceengines for years save s
sending away for shims
Dave 1949
Perhaps if you were a qualified mechanical engineer you would also be qualified
to answer on the subject of valve shimming tolerances .
take a day off from being a halfwit and go to university andbe come accredited
to answer on the subject of valve shimming tolerances .
take a day off from being a halfwit and go to university andbe come accredited
thanks for all the good advice. the 1100 has 46,000 miles on the clock, runs great but i don't know the history as i bought it used. thanks again all.
I'm no engineer, nor a tool and die maker, but I would have thought that since shims are hardened to withstand the pounding they take, that removing some surface material to change the size would also be detrimental to the hardness finish.
*Perhaps*, in a race use application this doesn't matter as much since those engines are reworked after every race and shims replaced very often?
*Perhaps*, in a race use application this doesn't matter as much since those engines are reworked after every race and shims replaced very often?
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Not knowing is the problem. Having them checked now would be peace of mind.
Erdoc48
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I checked mine ~ 15,000 miles total mileage (about 4 years ago). One of the valves was at the lower end of spec (so borderline tight), so I left it alone (the rest were in the middle of spec range). I'll wait til 32K to check them again. Noise if anything would indicate a loose valve (more common on the intake side). Then the lash should be taken up with a shim. If the valve is tight, there's a risk of burning the valve and that can be some money to repair. Checking is fairly straightforward, but (for me), adding shims might be a little more than I'm capable of doing.
As is said, 'it's better to hear them than to smell them', which means, if they're a little loose, that's not a huge deal (but should be adjusted), but if burnt, that's no good and should be adjusted more readily/quickly.
Checking them yourself costs nothing (other than your time and the cost of a feeler gauge). If normal, you're good to go, and if not, leave all the plastic off the bike and then take it to a shop you trust and have them do a more definitive adjustment (unless you feel you're capable of doing it yourself).
As is said, 'it's better to hear them than to smell them', which means, if they're a little loose, that's not a huge deal (but should be adjusted), but if burnt, that's no good and should be adjusted more readily/quickly.
Checking them yourself costs nothing (other than your time and the cost of a feeler gauge). If normal, you're good to go, and if not, leave all the plastic off the bike and then take it to a shop you trust and have them do a more definitive adjustment (unless you feel you're capable of doing it yourself).
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Now that the pissing contest is over, keep this posting up for a while as someone in your area just might be willing to head over to give you a hand.
With spring time here or getting close there might be a tech event in the northwest that that will have loads of folks willing to walk you thru the
first check. Plan on attending as will learn a ton about your bike & meet some great folks as well.
Mine 1100 has gone over 50K with out any adjustments.
With spring time here or getting close there might be a tech event in the northwest that that will have loads of folks willing to walk you thru the
first check. Plan on attending as will learn a ton about your bike & meet some great folks as well.
Mine 1100 has gone over 50K with out any adjustments.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
But the absence might be even worse... ;-)
Seriously:
slightly too large clearance causes noise/ticking in idle (way too lose pitting of cams and worse...)
too close clearance however can damage valve seats, valves might not fully close, thus burn, etc...
Valve clearance is always checked on fully cold cold engine, simply because once the parts are warmed to operating temperature the 'clearance' will have shrunken to 'nearly' zero.
As far as I had observed will the valve clearance require adjustment for the first 24~48Tkm(15~30Kmiles) to then 'remain' with (nearly) no adjustment required up to ~96~120Tkm(~60~75Kmiles), from where they require frequent adjustments again.
So at first the valve-seats might still 'seat' themselves into the heads, at higher mileages valves and seats actually start to wear down...
YMMV though, always depending on how an engine is treated...
'Expensive' only if one opts for a full shim-kit (or neglects it so the engine blows...)
I personally would also not trust any aftermarket shims/sets offered; that alloy must take quite some beating, not to imagine what cheap materials could do in there...
thanks again. i have really learned a lot from this site!