Caught leaking. I'm going to order parts tomorrow. Did anyone change the impeller shaft also?
Leaking water pump
Leaking water pump
Water pump seal
- Thread starter Tdinova
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 9,519
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04 ST 1300s
- 2024 Miles
- 000420
- STOC #
- 5901
You are better off replacing the prop also. I've done three, working on my fourth soon. I changed out the prop just to make sure things seat/seal up properly!
OP
OP
Thanks for your reply. What kind of lubricant should I put on the new impeller with the new seals, oil on the oil side and new antifreeze on the antifreeze side? Or dry
CYYJ
Michael
Not sure if you have already done this once before (sounds like you are pretty experienced with this kind of stuff), but just in case you have not done this before, here's a link to an article with a lot of photos that will show you what things look like when they are disassembled: Water Pump - disassembled.
It's murder to scrape the gasket off the front face of the engine once you have removed the front cover that holds the water pump. You can't use a razor or anything sharp on it because it will gouge the soft aluminum face of the engine. I used a hard plastic scraping tool meant for drywall taping & lots and lots of gasket remover... it still took me several hours to clean the old gasket off, spread over a few days as I let repeated applications of gasket remover soak in overnight. Be aware that the service manual calls for a bit of RTV sealant to be applied behind the new gasket, where the upper and lower portions of the engine case meet. This is at about the same height as the centerline of the water pump shaft.
While you are in there, you will have very easy access to the thermostat should you want to change it, and also pretty good access to the clamps for various hoses of the cooling system.
For what it's worth, I removed the front wheel and front fender when I did this work - this made access a heck of a lot easier, and saved having to swing the handlebars from side to side as I worked.
Michael
PS: Where are you in NS? I bought my 1300 from a fisherman who lived just south of Yarmouth.
It's murder to scrape the gasket off the front face of the engine once you have removed the front cover that holds the water pump. You can't use a razor or anything sharp on it because it will gouge the soft aluminum face of the engine. I used a hard plastic scraping tool meant for drywall taping & lots and lots of gasket remover... it still took me several hours to clean the old gasket off, spread over a few days as I let repeated applications of gasket remover soak in overnight. Be aware that the service manual calls for a bit of RTV sealant to be applied behind the new gasket, where the upper and lower portions of the engine case meet. This is at about the same height as the centerline of the water pump shaft.
While you are in there, you will have very easy access to the thermostat should you want to change it, and also pretty good access to the clamps for various hoses of the cooling system.
For what it's worth, I removed the front wheel and front fender when I did this work - this made access a heck of a lot easier, and saved having to swing the handlebars from side to side as I worked.
Michael
PS: Where are you in NS? I bought my 1300 from a fisherman who lived just south of Yarmouth.
OP
OP
Part 1 is done. Little scared by times, but it's off. The hint about the protruding metal on the bottom left made it easy to hit the cover. All parts are ordered but the bearing has to come from Vancouver so it will arrive maybe Friday.. the gasket looks stuck on. I may even check the clutch thickness.
OP
OP
Not bad 2 hours cleaning the surfaces. I measured my springs and some are at the min. length and the 1st clutch plate is near the min. I never done clutch replacement before... I ordered new clutches and springs. Can someone chime in on some hints on replacing the clutches. I know I have to soak them over night in new oil,,,, then.....
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 9,519
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04 ST 1300s
- 2024 Miles
- 000420
- STOC #
- 5901
Changing out the clutch will depend how many miles you have on your bike, and what kind of riding you mostly do.
For my 2010, I replaced the waterpump and the clutch at (I think) 60K miles. My clutch was slipping from the pounding I give it commuting.
Other than that, just replace them according to the manual. You should be fine.
For my 2010, I replaced the waterpump and the clutch at (I think) 60K miles. My clutch was slipping from the pounding I give it commuting.
After I had cleaned my cover up, I poured some oil in the clutch area of the cover and let them soak in there. just don't stack them up on top of each other, the oil needs to get into them all.
Other than that, just replace them according to the manual. You should be fine.
Last edited:
CYYJ
Michael
Here are links to two discussions that might be of interest to you:
ST1300 - Clutch Replacement
clutch wear/replacement
Michael
Motion pro makes a brass putty knife type deal just for removing stuck on paper gaskets. This by far was the worst part of the whole job for me.
Yes, It should be pressed in to the depth of the spec in the service manual.- Along with the new shaft bearing.
OP
OP
I'm from Bridgewater
OP
OP
Been doing some you tubing about replacing clutches. Fast forward the attached video to 24min 17secs and watch this guy put a light coating of grease between the gasket and case so the future guy will have less problems getting the old gasket off. I may try this. But I cannot forget to put a dab of gasket sealer where the upper and lower cases meet
Grease between gasket and case
.
Grease between gasket and case
.
OP
OP
Ok I'm still waiting on parts from the dealer...
1 question
I have impeller out and the oil seal, I have the rubber part of the mechanical seal out but the metal part is still inside the case. How do I remove that part? Is it as simple as put something in the other side and pound it out?
1 question
I have impeller out and the oil seal, I have the rubber part of the mechanical seal out but the metal part is still inside the case. How do I remove that part? Is it as simple as put something in the other side and pound it out?
OP
OP
Easily done, once I picked up my new parts I could see that I could press it out from the back using an abs fitting in front and a deep socket that size and out in 10 seconds. I'm using a 5 inch vise as a press.
Still waiting on the bearing and clutch plates. Clutch here tomorrow and possible the bearing
Still waiting on the bearing and clutch plates. Clutch here tomorrow and possible the bearing
OP
OP
Parts all here. Clutch installed tomorrow morning
OP
OP
Done