What to Buy?

[Upt' North]

No, I would recommend oem pads in all systems. I have no great knowledge of ABS 1 or 2 or indeed the system fitted to the ST13. The front and rear systems are essentially linked in the CBS bikes and as far as I'm aware the SMC is the animal which allows the linking of pressure front and rear. But I can't see the SMC displaces any great amount of fluid and if it did it would only be to the parts of those systems which are linked.
By that I mean the SMC does not apply pressure to all of the rear brake, only the linked part.
I won't elaborate further because I'm not fully aware of what pistons are operated by the SMC. Someone will know and I think John Heath has posted diagrams on here which show this in detail. It'll probably be on SMC threads, of which there are plenty, because they cause issues.
Upt.

 

[FlyingScot]

Good old Scottish weather (Torrential Rain) meant I did not go look at the bike and obviously have a test ride. Sadly that is not going to happen for a week or more now.

 

[FlyingScot]

No, I would recommend oem pads in all systems. I have no great knowledge of ABS 1 or 2 or indeed the system fitted to the ST13. The front and rear systems are essentially linked in the CBS bikes and as far as I'm aware the SMC is the animal which allows the linking of pressure front and rear. But I can't see the SMC displaces any great amount of fluid and if it did it would only be to the parts of those systems which are linked.
By that I mean the SMC does not apply pressure to all of the rear brake, only the linked part.
I won't elaborate further because I'm not fully aware of what pistons are operated by the SMC. Someone will know and I think John Heath has posted diagrams on here which show this in detail. It'll probably be on SMC threads, of which there are plenty, because they cause issues.
Upt.

I am told ONLY USE Honda Pads in ST1100 ABSII bikes and all ST1300's

Also it is not about the amount of fluid displaced but PRESSURE being applied to the pistons to move the calipers and then the pads, as these bikes have single sided sliding calipers and then if the bike is in motion a properly working SMC will activate the two outer pistons in all three calipers.

All ST1100's after a certain date (1996?) have the triple piston calipers and LBS/CBS even if they do not have ABS as far as I can figure out ABS 'only' adds two ABS Modulator units (obviously there are additional subtle changes as well)

Also the SMC is inactive until the caliper swings, so at a stop if you press the foot brake all three pistons in the rear caliper will activate and push the pads onto the rear disc.

Quite a clever hydro/mechanical set up that does need to be properly maintained.

This of course is JUST my understanding of the ABSII system, including the SMC I have not discussed the other hydraulic units that are part of the ASBII system I am sure if you want more info there are a multitude of very helpful threads here.

 

[FlyingScot]

ONE DOWN :-(

Had a nice 120 mile round trip to look at a 1999 ST1100 (NON ABS) Bike

Sadly even through the miles were not astronomically high (55K) the bike had not been babied, in fact looking at the MOT history some of that was an indication of a not wonderfully maintained bike.

It had failed with a front brake problem, with the PO, and they only replaced one disc the N/S was as new BUT the O/S one was worn enough to feel the lip sadly I did not take my vernier gauge with me, but the lip was significant, you can even see it in my pictures.

Lots and lots of rust and all over the bike and even though I was told the swinging arm had been refurbished (and I saw the extra mud flap extension had been fitted) the swinging arm had not been properly refurbished (certainly not to my standard) as it was covered in rust SO if you can't even paint it properly as part of a refurbishment then I wonder what the actual repairs were like. Both the stands were very rusty as was the brake pedal and the chrome catches all over the bike plus every nut bolt and pipe that was mild steel even the rear spring and the top of the front forks and more :-( Good old Scottish winter weather with lots of salt on the roads I guess :-(

ALSO and quite critical and strange I could not get the quite nice but non-standard seat to come off, neither could the owner and turning the key felt like it was doing nothing at all, and terrified of breaking the key I gave up on that.

Maybe someone here can identify the seat for me ? Before I do a Google image search

I took, and wore, once I got to the bike, my boots (not my M/C boots) with the thickest soles and could flat foot the bike so assuming it was not a lowered seat then the Daytona boots will work fine for me, so ONE positive result.

 

[St-Gerard]

I would be walking away from that one.

 

[FlyingScot]

I would be walking away from that one.

The post started with ONE DOWN :-( meaning NOT a Happy Bunny. At half the price it would be still too expensive, I guess i may need to look at bikes in England as far south as possible where the roads are not as regularly 'salted'

 

[JJames]

All ST1100's after a certain date (1996?) have the triple piston calipers and LBS/CBS even if they do not have ABS as far as I can figure out ABS 'only' adds two ABS Modulator units (obviously there are additional subtle changes as well)

Hmmm , don't think thats right . Non ABS have 2 pot calipers. Post 96 ABS also have larger diameter forks , and I suspect they have a wider front rim , since they have a wider front tire. I'm shooting from the hip here - so I might be wrong -check it out. What I can say for sure is : I like the brakes on my ABS ST , and I've never had any problem with them. I have not tried a non ABS.
My 2c :Get the nicest one you can find , and no rust !

 

[St-Gerard]

My St1100 is a 96 non Abs brakes , I find the brakes are matched well to the weight of the bike and the speed it's capable of . Rode my old Gl500i awhile ago and wondered how I survived 80,000 kilometers without running into something.

 

[Upt' North]

If the seat release didn't work the cable had probably pooped out of the retainer on the cross member. It does happen. And if and when you buy an 11 it's a top idea to make sure it's in good and proper. A belt and braces grommet through the mudguard doesn't hurt either.
It looks a complete shed. Good call.
The seat may be a TopSellerie. It may not.
Upt.

 

[FlyingScot]

Hmmm , don't think thats right . Non ABS have 2 pot calipers. Post 96 ABS also have larger diameter forks , and I suspect they have a wider front rim , since they have a wider front tire. I'm shooting from the hip here - so I might be wrong -check it out. What I can say for sure is : I like the brakes on my ABS ST , and I've never had any problem with them. I have not tried a non ABS.
My 2c :Get the nicest one you can find , and no rust !

YES MY BAD the 1999 bike I looked at the other day was NON ABS and has the 'old style' two pot calipers on it, sadly the owner was just a newbie bike rider and knew little about his Pan Euro.

Yes you are correct re the front forks and the bigger tyre on an ABS II bike {IF my info is correct, on that difference}, smaller diameter discs too on an ABS II bike. Though I think the bigger discs will fit no problem BUT the reverse is not true as the ABS II discs won't fit on a NON ABS bike as they don't go deep enough into the calliper.

 

[FlyingScot]

If the seat release didn't work the cable had probably pooped out of the retainer on the cross member. It does happen. And if and when you buy an 11 it's a top idea to make sure it's in good and proper. A belt and braces grommet through the mudguard doesn't hurt either.
It looks a complete shed. Good call.
The seat may be a TopSellerie. It may not.
Upt.

Turning the key in the lock did not feel like it was doing anything, and trying harder to turn the key further was only going to snap the key. SO how do I release the seat, in a similar situation, do I need to remove some of the plastic to get access to the seat release cable??

 

[Upt' North]

Turning the key in the lock did not feel like it was doing anything, and trying harder to turn the key further was only going to snap the key. SO how do I release the seat, in a similar situation, do I need to remove some of the plastic to get access to the seat release cable??

What I would do is as described above and put a grommet underneath the cable for access. It'll be obvious when you see it. It is possible to remove all the plastics at the rear with the seat in place, possible! Not easy!
The key only turns probably a quarter of a turn but if the cable is out/broken it's swearing time.
I think I put an inch grommet in the mudguard. Like I say, it'll be obvious.
For those that work in metric 1 inch is right around one inch.
Upt.

 

[Upt' North]

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Just seen this one......it's a long way from wee bonny Scotland though.