Where can I get this electrical connector?

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Feb 17, 2007
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Does anyone know where I can get this electrical connector? It's a female, 4 pin - what you would find at the end of the ignition switch. The previous owner of my 2012 ST installed a keyless ignition - Digital Guard Dawg. It looks like they do not make a specific 'plug and play' type kit for the ST1300 wrs.ith the appropriate connector. He cut the male side of this connector off (on the main wiring harness) and wired up the system directly, and I would like to clean it up and get the appropriate connector if I can.

4 pin - this is the part that I am looking for or the entire connector:
2024-03-30 09.11.05.jpg

This is the side that was cut off from the main wiring harness. I would like to get it put back on and the proper connector installed for the Guard Dawg system:
2024-03-30 09.12.39.jpg
 
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How about these for the cost of postage?
1ea 4 pin male
1ea 4 pin female
6ea male and female pins.
 

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And here is an answer for any UK forum members spotting the heading.

2.8mm Honda Suzuki Kawasaki MTW Mini-Latch Wiring Loom Connector (kojaycat.co.uk)

Always get more of the metal terminals than you need - it gives you the opprtunity to practice. If uncertain about the current rating go for higher rating. The crimped parts are larger and grip better. You may have to cut them to a more sutiable size - but I find the low current terminals simply don't crimp properly - not using the standard tool.
 
How about these for the cost of postage?
1ea 4 pin male
1ea 4 pin female
6ea male and female pins.

That looks to be different than OEM - the latch is on the end inside of the side. I am trying to keep it OEM so the ignition switch can be used again by just plugging it in. But thanks for the offer
 
Does anyone know where I can get this electrical connector? It's a female, 4 pin - what you would find at the end of the ignition switch. The previous owner of my 2012 ST installed a keyless ignition - Digital Guard Dawg. It looks like they do not make a specific 'plug and play' type kit for the ST1300 wrs.ith the appropriate connector. He cut the male side of this connector off (on the main wiring harness) and wired up the system directly, and I would like to clean it up and get the appropriate connector if I can.

4 pin - this is the part that I am looking for or the entire connector:
2024-03-30 09.11.05.jpg

This is the side that was cut off from the main wiring harness that I would like to get put back on:
2024-03-30 09.12.39.jpg
IMO are those Sumitomo 6120-2043 & Sumitomo 6110-4543 and to be found on the site already posted by @DeanR


Connector Set Male and Female - Set SC250-4
Male Connector Housing - Male SC250-4
Female Flanged Connector - Female SC250-4
 
For info, if anyone is considering this Keyless ignition system - it appears to be pretty simple to install. There are (6) wires to deal with. This is their KIM-U (U for Universal) which currently retails for $300. I have always had a problem/concern about getting the ignition key in the slot or dropping it, but I don't think I would have spent the $300, but since it was on the bike when I bought it, I will keep it.

The system has two modes - the key fob has a switch you can press, or there is a proximity mode which detects the fob when you get within range. If the kill switch is left on, the starter button is always 'hot' and the bike will crank over, but not start. There is also an emergency bypass code in case you lost the fob. You use the kill switch to enter a sequence to get it into bypass mode and it will stay in that mode until you press the keyfob button or kill the power


  1. The ignition switch is harness is disconnect at that mass of wiring on the left side of the bike near the radiator
    1. 01 Ignition switch harness.jpg
  2. (3) wires from the Digital Guard Dawg get spliced into the four ignition switch wires
    1. 02 Connection overview.jpg 03 Connection to harness.jpg
  3. On the right side by the abs module, (2) wires are cut just past the connector and spliced together. Two wires from the DGD are then connected to the two wires
    1. 04 right side.jpg 05 .jpg
  4. (1) ground wire runs back to the battery
 
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@GitSum, when you find the connector, buy some spare male and female terminals. You will ruin a few when you make these things up. You might also consider the tool to release them from the plastic housing. While a needle pick often works, the appropriate tool does a cleaner job of it - and won't damage the connector. Don't skimp when buying the crimp tool. The cheap ones will ruin a lot of terminals.
 
IMO are those Sumitomo 6120-2043 & Sumitomo 6110-4543 and to be found on the site already posted by @DeanR


Connector Set Male and Female - Set SC250-4
Male Connector Housing - Male SC250-4
Female Flanged Connector - Female SC250-4

Thanks. Those do appear to be the correct connector

My measurements of the 'female' connector that was cut off. (I would call that the male connector since it goes into the other connector, but what do I know)

Height = 11.91" vs 12.0"
Width = 18.86" vs 19.0"
Depth = 24.58" vs 24.6"

Ordered connector set plus the make and female along with extra pins for $16 with shipping. Thanks everyone

D24-0350.jpg
 
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Since you still have chopped off connector, just need to extract old terminals, then install new ones on harness wires and push back into connector housing.

UK sources
https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/connector-terminals.html
https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/US4WW

2024-03-30-09-12-39-jpg.331422
 
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Male/female designation is determined by the terminal orientation, not the connector orientation.
Aye, but the male plastic housing accepts the male spade terminals, and the female housing uses the female (receptor) terminals.
 
Should be exact same item that Sumitomo provided to Honda.
Bought a couple of OEM-style connector casings over the years... those made of plain white (or bright red/light green) plastic don't like harsh temperatures, whilst the OEM Honda are made of kinda cream white (or dark/cherry red/dark green) plastic and last for decades...
No negatives on black casings though, they show similar durability...
 
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