moddy
the mod
With the symptoms and inconsistent complications I've had I decided to contact who I bought it from and he mentioned it could be 10 to 15 years old. It is servo R&R inspection time
Moddy - The folks at McCruise (which also uses vacuum cannisters) said that they have found our ethanol mix is hard on the rubber O-rings in their canister units. When the O-rings go, you get the same behavior that you are seeing. It seems the vapors through the vacuum lines is what causes the problems for them. I don't know if that applies to your situation or not but it did on my McCruise cruise control units.
gotta ask, since it was bought used.... did it come with a wiring diagram?. you might check it against the wiring diagram shown on Murphskits site for the audiovox vacuum type c.c.
Understood. When I went after my wired connections I noticed the ground from the servo had paint before the metal and though attempts were made to clear the paint and make an actual ground, warranting another test ride, it will just not hold longer than a couple of minutes. It was an improvement for the length of time that it would hold but somewhere after I press set or resume it just gives up.
There seems to be good vacuum, there is a strong pull for the portions that it does work. The dip switch settings are one is on, 2 through 6 is off and seven is on. This is the way a lot of the ST1100's are set up the way I've been able to tell.
So after about 20 hours of wrestling with this thing it looks like I'm going to be defeated unless I were to have another hand control or servo I could test with. Don't know what else I can do.
I do have the repair/test instructions for my system, but you would have an entirely different system I'm sure.. they helped me diagnose the issue with mine, and it was old and split vacuum pipes..
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it was old and split vacuum pipes..
Oh yeah, forgot. The only way to rule out the servo kicking off because of the 125mv present in the "brake light when levered on only" wire. I'll have to wire the relay in, to insure it's not that.
Or just ground it.
--Mark
I admire your perseverance.
- the ST1100 throttle cables should not be lubed, they are teflon lined. If they have been lubed and are now gummed up, or are dragging/binding for any other reason, replace them.
- the brake light/power source shouldn't be the cause of the problems. Too many of us just use other simple switched sources.
- you still haven't done the vacuum leak test I described above (engine off, vacuum applied to the system on the other side of the check valve {hose, servo, reservoir}, watch the gage for bleed off). If there is, then test each hose and component separately to identify the culprit. You are guessing there's a leak and this is the way to find it...
John
.... I don't have a mightvac, I know I know, I should do. So, tomorrow, after the throttle cable housing has been cleaned, with my shop vac and engine off, it's anybody's guess what's about to happen. Could have used the shop vac trick sooner....
David, IIRC you do have a vacuum gage that you can plug into the downstream (or is it upstream as we're talking about air flowing OUT of the reservoir {vacuum} ) side. I don't know how much vacuum you can apply with a shopvac, but I just checked how much I can apply by mouth with a short hose to my MityVac. Its gage says: 20"Hg. That seems enough for a leakdown check. I'd sure try that before trying to rig up a vacuum cleaner. FWIW YMMV
John