moddy
the mod
Update. My vacuum canister is good, no leaks.
Okay, this is good news and I don't have to suck on the throttle body tube anymore. I obviously didn't die from it but it equates to watching a cat lick a puddle of gasoline.The PAIR valve system should have nothing to do with the vacuum from the throttle bodies...
It's a bit strange I think, because even if the vacuum lines were split and sucking in air, you would still be able run it at full speed, albeit a bit lean....I have replaced the VAC lines at cylinder 2 and 4. I segregated cylinder number four to do the VAC for the cruise control, because I can't know the integrity of the VAC line at the other end from the cylinder 2 and 4 T connector. Will be able to test ride tomorrow.
My vacuum lines to the cruise control diaphragm were all hardened and split fro heat over the years... but it never stopped the bike from revving right out.... if I understand you correctly, the bike refuses to go above 55mph ??At this time I would like to say that noticing the complete degradation of the VAC lines having been noticed sooner, to supply some actual vacuum while the engine is running is probably what would have led to a much more successful initial test ride. That's all I'm going to say about that.
Today's test ride revealed it wasn't willing to hold at any speed for longer than 5 to 10 seconds even though I improved the connections with vac lines. So it's a little disconcerting to hear that even with you're bad vacuum lines that it performed.My vacuum lines to the cruise control diaphragm were all hardened and split fro heat over the years... but it never stopped the bike from revving right out.... if I understand you correctly, the bike refuses to go above 55mph ??
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I have connected the cruise control cable to the throttle link that moves the other side of the carburetor. Fred Adkins attached his cruise control here. It was a move to install the cruise control without having to pull the carbs.Honestly, Moody , I can't make out what's going on in that picture. Yes I am wearing my glasses too.
I always appreciate the input, I could be missing something.FWIW - In normal operation, e.g. the Audiovox CC engaged and holding 65mph, the throttle grip can be rotated and held to increase speed for a bit (to creep forward out of a cage's blind spot, for example) and then gently released, whereby the bike will slow back to 65mph and continue to hold that speed.
You either have too much total resistance in the servo cable routing which the CC senses and shuts itself off, OR in your setup/install the servo cable is already fully retracted and simply can't achieve the set engine rpm (ignition pulse). IOW, the throttle bellcrank or linkage (wherever you've attached the end of the servo cable) can't rotate further to the position needed-for/relative-to/associated-with the engine rpm at the time you pushed the Set button. In your case, anything faster than the rpm associated with 55mph in 5th gear.
Note what the rpm is for, say 70mph, in 5th gear. Then slow down, put the ST in 4th gear and run it up to the same rpm, engage the Audiovox and see if it holds...
STill thinking out loud here...
John
When I first bought my bike some 10 years ago, it did the same thing... I found the manufacturer of the unit wasn't that far from me, and they upgraded the switch housing and did some other upgrades as well... they had oscilloscopes and all sorts of test units... my cruise control would also stay locked in for 10 or so seconds then cut out...It isn't working in the worst way possible. It doesn't just not work. It sets, when I press the set button. The small amount of slack is taken up and tension is provided to the throttle, it holds between 2 and 25 seconds, then fails, as if I squeezed the brake or clutch, or the servo pulled the cable to the end of it's ability (which by the way, isn't even close).
There isn't anything else I can think of. The wire connections are very good, but it leads me to believe there is a signal it's receiving somewhere to cause it to disengage.
There isn't anymore road testing that can be done for the moment. I can check over the connections but there aren't that many, other than looking for an obvious crossed wire. We'll see. It's making me think Rostra, an electric option.
Oh well, this kind of thing has happened before. It's so close, just not consistent.
Understood. When I went after my wired connections I noticed the ground from the servo had paint before the metal and though attempts were made to clear the paint and make an actual ground, warranting another test ride, it will just not hold longer than a couple of minutes. It was an improvement for the length of time that it would hold but somewhere after I press set or resume it just gives up.When I first bought my bike some 10 years ago, it did the same thing... I found the manufacturer of the unit wasn't that far from me, and they upgraded the switch housing and did some other upgrades as well... they had oscilloscopes and all sorts of test units... my cruise control would also stay locked in for 10 or so seconds then cut out...
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