Windscreen Alignment (slipped a gear)

OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I wonder if the European version is different than the states. I've worked on mine and the gear is metal and engages into a metal flexible cable. There is a elastic member between the metal coils of the cable. Either way the parts ware and the design is less than ideal. My feeling is that if the windshield was only moved when the bike is not moving it would last much longer, possibly outlast the bike, d'oh, outlast an ST not possible:). Larger aftermarket windshields place even more stress on the mechanism when attempting to adjusted with the pressure generated at speed. I've even read where some say a large windshield wont even adjust at all when moving.
I started to post a very similar post but decided to wait until I opened mine up. From the photos and other threads I have read the drive gear is made from metal. Well powdered metal from the posts that I read which explains why it wears out. The photos I have seen didn't show any plastic gears. One thing that I do know is that there are two windscreen mechanism assemblies. There is an early one and a new updated one. No idea as to what the difference is but it is possible that one is a plastic gear and maybe they revised with the powdered metal one. I am not sure about that though.

As for the larger windscreen. I bought my 1300 this past spring. It has a larger screen that I took off as soon as I got home with it from Arizona. I put the stock screen on it that also came with the bike. I can confirm that in the limited amount of time that I rode with it (about 2 weeks) that the mechanism cannot move the windscreen at speed. I would only move it while stopped. As for my failure. It first happened while sitting at a stop light.
 

perk263

perkSTer
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
226
Location
NE Ohio
Bike
2004 ST 1300
I had the same problem with mine, I think it was my fault as I tried to move it in 20+ F degree weather. I tore it apart and put the windscreen where I used it most often and put everything back together. I'm too frugle to spend $300+ on a new part, none of my previous bikes had adjustable windscreens,now my ST doesnot either.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I think my plan is to see if I can fix it with the shims. If not I will likely do the same and set it low as I rode most of the time in that position. Then use the mechanical mounting points to raise and lower for spring and fall.

I might do the complete replacement but if I do it won't be until I get the funds. I am most likely going to sell the 1100 come spring so that will likely be the source.
 
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
60
Location
Have a nice day
i talked to my local honda parts dealer and he said that the entire assembly what has to be purchased and that is $425....ouch, as long as i have my warranty and i didnt help it fail from what would be referred to as abuse or neglect than for the next year and a half i really aint worried, i might have to get the assembly with my income tax and have it for when that happens ill have one, im just sayin....
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
Well, I got the windscreen mechanism out and disassembled. As I thought my primary point of failure was a tooth on the gear. There are a few teeth worn and one broken. I thought it was interesting that where the only sign of wear is located happens to be where the right gear is. I don't get why the left one doesn't show the damage. I was expecting to see more damage where the left gear rides than what I saw.



I have been looking it over and think I can shim the gear up a little and make this work. I won't know for sure until I try it.

The cables show some wear but not too bad. I looked at the cable system a little more to see if they could be rotated. In the past I read that the cables are crimped in place so they can't be swapped. The thing is that while it is crimped it rotates on the bracket. So even if it were possible to swap sides, I don't know that it would help. They have had the curvature for so long that they would spin to where the gear rides on the worn part again anyhow. It might be possible to tack it somehow so maybe it wouldn't spin anymore. That way it could be rotated to where it is riding on new teeth. I will have to look at it later a little more. I might be able to braze it with a torch. I don't see why it needs to rotate.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I have been digging a little more into this. It appears that this motor is actually used elsewhere as many of us suspected.

It is the same motor that is used to power the power windows in a Honda Accord. The motor assembly is a Mitsuba WR-5.

link

From digging through lots of photos (thanks Google) the issue appears that while the motor is the same, the motor mounts into a bracket that holds the two cables. This is different. This is where everyone hits the brick wall. Whoever makes the bracket that the WR-5 sits in, is the great mystery. There are no markings on this part or the gear to help ID it. Well at least if you are lucky enough to blow a motor it is a cheap fix. The are around on ebay for pretty cheap.
 
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
1,102
Location
Bloomington, MN
STOC #
273
I have been digging a little more into this. It appears that this motor is actually used elsewhere as many of us suspected.

It is the same motor that is used to power the power windows in a Honda Accord. The motor assembly is a Mitsuba WR-5.

link


From digging through lots of photos (thanks Google) the issue appears that while the motor is the same, the motor mounts into a bracket that holds the two cables. This is different. This is where everyone hits the brick wall. Whoever makes the bracket that the WR-5 sits in, is the great mystery. There are no markings on this part or the gear to help ID it. Well at least if you are lucky enough to blow a motor it is a cheap fix. The are around on ebay for pretty cheap.


Are you saying that the whole Accord assembly could be possibly retrofitted, provided there is a adaptive bracket?

The "brick wall" is really the gear as I've gathered from monitoring this for years. I've never heard of a blown motor. There was a guy over on My-Mc who was actually looking into cloning this gear with a CNC but I think this fell through due to cost.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
Yeah, I know that the brick wall has been the gear and the cables. I even read all about the person that worked out getting a new gear made but it didn't pan out due to high costs due to the limited numbers needed. As for the Accord assembly. The more I think about it I think it might be possible. I might have to try and make it to Rich's Tech event so I can look at another bike without having to put mine back together. Here is what I have been thinking about.

First off the motor. I agree, I haven't seen any reports of them failing. I just mentioned that in the event that it actually happened and someone was looking at replacing just that and stumbled across this thread many moons from now. It would help them identify that the Honda Accord uses the same motor. Well not 100% the same The wire connector appears a little different. However the white connector on the top of the motor visible in this photo looks like it would unclip so someone could either just cut off the ends and put the right connector on or try and move the power cable over to the Accord motor. Other than that, from the photos I have seen, the motors are the same.



What isn't the same is what the motor bolts to. On the 1300 it bolts to an aluminum bracket shown here that houses the drive gear and holds the cables.



Well it might not be aluminum. It feels pretty cheap much like the same powdered metal that the drive gear is made from. That is fine for the rest of the assembly but the gear couldn't take the wear. The only marking on any of the parts to this assembly is "MCSA" which is stamped on the black metal part that has the three bolt holes in it. This same acronym is also stamped on the sheet metal that makes up the assembly. Whoever MCSA is I think is the big mystery. I would be willing to bet it is the subcontractor that makes the parts for Honda and would be the source if it were possible to ID them and if they would be willing to sell the part, which I highly doubt will ever happen. I am curious if the "M" in MCSA is Mitsuba who makes the motor. A Google search is difficult because MCSA is a Microsoft Certification so there are lots of hits on that. More so when you include things like window in your search.

As for how the existing cable attaches to the bracket. This can be seen in this image.



The red arrows show where the crimps are at to hold the cable to the bracket that supports the windscreen. This is why that cable can be rotated. If I wanted to shim the gear and run on a new part of the cable I should be able to braze the cable to the bracket so it will no longer spin. What is interesting is how the mechanisms are driven differently. The 1300 does a push/pull with the one cable. The Accord uses a continuous cable that does more of what might be a pull/pull motion. Well from the poor photos it looks like this is the case. Based on what the bracket looks like and how the cable attaches, I don't see why the cable couldn't be cut off and changed over to the pull/pull version used in the Accord. There are micro switches on the right mechanism that limit the range of motion of the mechanism to prevent over extending. Since w are dealing with the same motor there is no reason it couldn't be done the same way. The concern is that a continuous cable isn't going to help much when it comes to this application. The reason is that it would only power one of the brackets. The way I see it there are two options.

1. Try and use the Accord mechanism and cable possibly extending the cable so the left and right sides are connected in series. It would be troublesome to align and most likely why it wasn't done this way.

2. An easier way would be to run two motors. One for each side. Now if you spliced the second motor in, it should work but it would double the load on the circuit and most likely cause issues. So something would have to be done with relays to make this work. Impossible, no, but it would take some time to figure out. Plus we would have to find room for a second motor in there.

The other issue is that we need to ensure that there is enough clearance at the top of the mechanism for the cables to come out. Since my bike is really stripped down it would take some time to put it back together enough to see if this is an issue. That is why it would be nice to take a peak at a bike at the tech event. I might have to try and make it. I might get around to putting things back together enough to see if it would work. If I think it does I might order an assembly for an Accord and take the next steps.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
One other thing I left off.

I don't know that my failure was due to a big windscreen. It finally failed while sitting stopped and adjusting the screen at a stoplight. Sure it could have been damaged but I think a bigger issue is that once the motor was pulled I moved the brackets through the range of motion. They move really had. I could barely move them. With that much resistance I think it was more of an issue than trying to move the windscreen at speed or an oversized one. I have been trying to work out the old lube that is in there but it is the consistency of wax. When I put this back together I should have things freed up a little.

Like perk263 said, it was cold out when I moved it that morning. Probably in the 20s and the lube may have been even thicker. The heat is on in the shop when I have been working on it and the temps are in the 50s.
 
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
1,102
Location
Bloomington, MN
STOC #
273
I've sort of concluded that some of the wear is attributed to poor screen fitment at the factory. I think you noted that the mechanism is resistant at certain points of the travel A screen that is tightly mounted will bind the mechanism that much more, especially when the screen is expanding during hot sunny days. One thing I did early in my 2007's life was to back off the torque of the mounting points to allow the screen to self adjust during thermal cycles and through the range of travel. Hard to say if this helps or not because I really try not to use the motorized screen.

How about going outside the box on this one and dare I suggest figuring out how to adapt a hand crank type assembly that uses the flat gears? The driving gear is round and the driven gear is straight. It could still be driven by a motor, but is getting rid of the worm gears and cables altogether.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I have thought of that and in my searches of the Honda Accord Power Window Mechanism there is a model year range that uses one like what you describe.



Here is a cable driven variant.



I agree that the mechanical version would be best. I think the conversion would be more difficult though. The big concern I have about this option is that the mechanism would need to be mounted so that it can flex. The track isn't flat but rather curves so that it changes the angle of the windscreen as it goes up and down. While not impossible it would complicate things. The mechanical option uses the same motor that is used in the one on the 1300. At least from what I can tell it is the same one. This motor seems like it is used for lots of things. I have seen applications varying from windows to power seats and power trunks. The motor is the same they just alter what mechanism it bolts up to. As is evident in the application with the 1300.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
Well I have been working on this more tonight.

I cleaned up the tracks really well getting that old grease out and re-lubing the track and cables. The mechanism is still a little hard to move but a lot better than it was. The Right side that broke was really stiff before. I also took the time to set the dash back on the bike as well as the cowls. After looking this over I can say while it would be great to go with the gear driven mechanism (top one above) there is pretty much no way to do this. The reason is that there is no way it will clear the dash and the wiring harness for the cluster is in the way. I also looked at the shims that I thought I could do and now I don't think it is an option. Pretty much the only option I can see at this point is to go with a modified car window mechanism that is cable driven. There isn't a ton of room but we should be able to do this because of the flexibility that the cable system gives us. The problem is that this may mean we need two motors unless the cable can be routed to run both tracks. I don't know that this is an option as the cable so would have to be routed in a figure 8 pattern. It might be possible but it depends on the length of the cables and if they can be replaced with something else. It will also be difficult to to align the mechanisms so they move together. I'm not going to throw in the towel just yet but I am not sure how many more options there will be. It may come down to a dual motor design that is run off a relay.
 

John Anthony

Moderator
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Messages
2,137
Location
Seattle
Bike
'03 ST1300A
STOC #
5107
I appreciate your tenacity and perseverance. Hope you find a solution that works. And thanks for posting all of your updates including the pictures.

John
 
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
107
Location
Bloomington, MN
Bike
2006 ST1300
I have my bike apart in the garage right now for other modifications. After reading about your problem I took the entire windscreen assembly off the bike to inspect and clean it.

One of the many jobs I've had was installation and repair of garage doors and operators. The first thing you always do when an operator isn't working well is check how the door works by hand. I have to say my windscreen mechanism worked terribly just pushing each side up and down by hand. This was with the cables out of the tubes. For one thing, the grease was somewhat hard and actually kind of sticky. It was 49 degrees in my garage.

The two black plastic blocks that slide up and down in the track were binding all over the place with no load or cable attached! I took each one and gently worked it back and forth over a piece of 400 grit sandpaper, which took a little material off the 2 raised ribs on each side. I was really careful to remove a minimal amount of plastic. I got the blocks to slide up and down really smoothly.

Then I re-greased everything (with good grease) and put the tracks back together. With just the cables hanging out the bottom I tried it again and wow...they were hard to move. Looking into it farther I noticed that they slid well until I tightened up the 2 bolts into the blocks. There is a small thin metal shim in each one. Just for the heck of it I put them back together without the shims. Hmmm...now they slid easily again.

I may end up regretting it but I just put everything back on the bike without the 2 shims. I'll keep my eye on it this spring, if spring ever comes again to the frozen north.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I know what you are talking about. It sounds like your grease is about as hard as mine. Like I mentioned it was about the consistency of wax. My mechanisms are very hard to move. I worked on the right side and got it moving quite well but noticed that I forgot to tighten the two bolts in the plastic block that you were talking about. I tightened it up and it was harder to move. Not as bad as it was after replacing the grease but still a little hard.

I like your comment about the garage door. 4 years ago the garage door opener died in my shop. I tore into it and discovered that the worm gear was stripped. I thought that was strange. So I tried to lift the door by hand. Now the door is about 10' wide and 12' tall but I could hardly move it by hand. I realized that I could replace the gear but there is no way it will last unless I fix that issue. I inspected things and discovered that there are two pulleys at the top of the garage door that had bearing that were shot. This caused them to drag and was making the springs not effective. I replaced the pulleys and the cables as long as I was at it. Put tension back on the springs and it was easy to move again. Haven't had any issues again in the last 4 years. It is now part of my spring cleaning. I manually check the garage doors that are equipped with automatic openers to make sure that everything is working. It is easy to do and takes seconds. Just pull the release and lift the door. If there are any issues you will know right away.

I really don't understand why it is so hard to move. I was wondering in the back of my mind if anyone else had checked how hard it is to manually move the mechanism of their windscreen. I really think this is a big part of why they fail. There is no reason the mechanism should move this hard. I should add that I didn't know how normal this is. The previous owner hit a small deer with my bike. It wasn't a bad hit and only the headlight assembly and a little plastic was all that was replaced. I thought it was possible that there could have been some undetected damage to the assembly and possible binding. It really looked fine but being only one side (right) seems to have the issue I thought it was possible.

If I end up replacing the entire assembly the first thing I will likely do is take it apart and clean it. Then look at what I can do to free up the assembly. There is way too much resistance in the mechanism from what I have seen. I don't know if this is a problem as the grease ages or what but it isn't acceptable and is likely as big of the reason for the failures as a large windscreen or adjusting at speed ever would be.

I will look at the shims that you pulled out a little more. I know which ones you are talking about and really don't see why they have to be there either. One possible solution if you want to leave the shims in place would be to not tighten the 2 bolts. They have a regular washer and a lock washer. You could also add a drop of thread lock and they won't go anywhere. It is possible that the shim is there to keep the mechanism from binding.

Out of curiosity what did you use for grease? I have been using a white lithium garage door type spray grease for now. I want something that will not wash away. Moly paste might be another option.
 
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
107
Location
Bloomington, MN
Bike
2006 ST1300
I used a grease that was always spec'd for Genie Gear Driven operators called "Lubriplate." It's a white grease but no idea if there's anything special about it. I use it on everything from guns to windscreen mechanisms. It doesn't get sticky when the temp falls.
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
Messages
17
Location
SouthEast Kansas, USA
Bike
2001 ST1100
STOC #
3418
I'm one of the guys who looked into this mechanism, and posted over at my-mc.com a couple of years ago. My interest there was to adapt the mechanism to my ST1100. I bought a used one from a crashed 1300, to investigate it.

My final decision was to not play with the 1300 design at all, because it is an absurd design from the beginning. I suggest that the best way to improve it is to build a completely new assembly using cables and pulleys, and perhaps the same motor, although that would be secondary to finding one with a drive pulley for cable.

It turned out to be more than I was willing to do at the time. Now, I'm told I have retired, so the project just might come to the top of the pile again..... My thinking now is to work on a universal mechanism that could be fitted to both the 1100 and 1300, and maybe even other bikes using a discrete adapter.

If I come up with something, I'll be back on here.
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
1,440
Location
Houston, Tx
Bike
2003 ST1300
STOC #
5952
Had good luck with Corrosion-X aerosol spray (http://www.corrosionx.com/products.html). Could see and hear the shield going up and down easier (without trying to cock sideways anymore), faster, and quieter. Sprayed a few times a year, specially after heavy rain riding.

Once satisfied with functioning, started to spray with the HD version of Corrosion-X.

Also reverted to the OEM shield. Larger screen was slower to move at speed, obviously putting more stress on the mechanism.
 
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
1,102
Location
Bloomington, MN
STOC #
273
I'm one of the guys who looked into this mechanism, and posted over at my-mc.com a couple of years ago. My interest there was to adapt the mechanism to my ST1100. I bought a used one from a crashed 1300, to investigate it.

My final decision was to not play with the 1300 design at all, because it is an absurd design from the beginning. I suggest that the best way to improve it is to build a completely new assembly using cables and pulleys, and perhaps the same motor, although that would be secondary to finding one with a drive pulley for cable.

It turned out to be more than I was willing to do at the time. Now, I'm told I have retired, so the project just might come to the top of the pile again..... My thinking now is to work on a universal mechanism that could be fitted to both the 1100 and 1300, and maybe even other bikes using a discrete adapter.

If I come up with something, I'll be back on here.
Dennis, great to see you here! It's appropriate too since you had the most comprehensive investigation into this assembly of anyone up to Dave. One thing that is telling is this problem is one of very few that has stymied ST owners over the years (not to mention, stymied the Japanese engineers as well.) It will be fun to see what you guys can cook up.
 
OP
OP
sennister
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,216
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I thought I should post an update.

I have stopped working on this for a while along with all work on the bike. The biggest reason was that my heating bill for my shop was killing me. January bill was over $600. So things are going to be on hold for a bit. The plan was to order a new assembly and install that so I could tinker with my failed one. Well I don't know if I want to do that right now. I may need to see if I can find a dead windscreen mechanism to work on rather than mine and live with one that is broken for now. If I need to go this route I will post a request in the wanted section.

So this isn't a lost cause yet, I just haven't posted anything on this lately as it is going to be on hold for a month or two until things are not so darn cold out there in the shop. Then I will know if I am going to replace my broken mechanism and work on the one I have or try and find a dead one.
 
Top Bottom