Windshield diagnosis help

Joined
Feb 9, 2025
Messages
20
Age
30
Location
Spain-Italy
Bike
Honda ST1300
I know. Another windshield thread... I'm sorry but I don't know how many tabs I have opened right now about it yet I can't find what I'm looking for.

I bought an ST1300 from 2005 a few months ago. On the very first day, coming back on the highway, I had too much fun with the windshield, trying to find the best position until it eventually stopped working entirely. I wasn't told that they're this delicate... I guess I could have guessed it's not a good idea to operate it at high speeds but it didn't come to my mind at the moment. What's the point of having an electric adjustment near your hand while riding if you're only supposed to use it while stopped (or very close to it)?

Anyway, from that point on, I cannot feel any feedback from the switch. Neither going up or down. After reading many threads and articles here I'm aware that sintered gear stripping, cable snapping, and misaligned rails are a thing but I don't think that is the case. It's like the motor is not even trying to turn at all. Wouldn't it at least make a little noise if it was trying to move? I recorded a video so you can see what I mean by "no feedback" from the actuator. There is no noise or movement at all coming from it.


There were some mentions about the limit switches getting caught with something so I removed the front of the bike hoping I'd find that problematic switch.
By the way, my first error was to strip the bike. I was trying to remove as little as possible but I couldn't see the mechanism without getting rid of the front cover which requires removing a lot of plastics starting from the bottom of the bike and continuing toward the front according to the manual. I later found here that you only need to remove the meter and a few more things to get access to the top of the windscreen mechanism and you can work it out from there as explained in a guide posted by another user.

This is the current state of my bike.
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I checked the limit switches on the right rail (left side of the picture) and they do their clicky things nicely. I couldn't find any obvious damage in the wires either.
Is there a fuse dedicated to this motor in particular? It'd be nice if I just have to change a fuse although I'd be surprised if there is a fuse just for this. I found the fuse boxes on the left side of the bike but there was no mention of the motor for the windshield there.
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I have found the colored wiring diagram posted on this forum. It's SO MUCH CLEARER than what is shown in the manual I have. Still, this is pretty daunting to me. I have some experience working with bikes but only on mechanical things. The closest to electrical maintenance I've done is changing the battery or the spark plugs. I got a multimeter but I feel overwhelmed right now.

There is another odd thing I can't explain, in the guide I posted before there is a component that I don't see on my bike. Is it OK if I don't have that formed wire? Or maybe I do have it but I'm not looking at the right place. From the picture, it seems it'd be in the middle but I don't see anything like that.
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Thanks in advance for your comments. Every bit of help is very welcome. I'll keep trying tomorrow because I'd love to put it back together before Monday although my hopes are kind of low at the moment.
 
A bit of general troubleshooting: You can pull the fuses (one at time, and put them back in the same slot since they are different amp ratings) and look at the little 'U' shaped element through the plastic. If it appears to be broken, it is probably no good. It is a better idea to test from one fuse prong to the other with a continuity tester - often these are nothing more than a light bulb with a battery and two pointed wires. A multi meter set on ohms also works. If you look at the top of the fuse there are two silver dots - those go to the ends of the internal fuse wire. Most auto parts stores have a small tester w/ two prongs that you put on those two points with the fuse installed and the ignition on. If the tester's light illuminates, the fuse is bad. (My guess...even though I carry one of these testers I've not used it in over 10 years - if ever).

My 2006 wiring diagram says the windscreen fuse is number K (20 amp, but after these few years who knows what you will have), and it powers two relays on the right side under the windscreen mechanism. It is doubtful both went bad at the same time. My guess would be to squirt some plastic friendly contact cleaner into the up/down switch and see if that makes a difference. Other guys will chime in here soon.
 
As SMSW says, it should be fuse "K" (i'm not sure jsut read it also).


And here is a troubleshoot info sheet made by Anna'sDad



 
It's fixed! It was a fuse. Not the 20 A fuse mentioned in the thread though.
I checked the fuse box looking for the K fuse but there wasn't any K written there. I started measuring continuity on all of them and one of the 10 A fuses was blown.
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I replaced it and now it works. Maybe it was blown because it was supposed to be a 20 A fuse? I was afraid of bumping the limit so I installed another 10 A fuse.
I wish I hadn't taken so many parts away from the bike... Anyway, it was a good learning experience.
Thanks a lot for the help!
 
The label on the cover gives the correct rating for each fuse.
Makes sense. The replacement should be good then.

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According to that, it's the battery fused that failed. I don't understand how the electric start-up was working then though.

Also, the part about the 20 A fuse "K" remains a mystery to me. In the two fuse boxes, the only 20 A fuse is the one in the picture which is for the coil, the pump, and the Fl. Although I don't know what Fl is. Fluid?
 
Also, the part about the 20 A fuse "K" remains a mystery to me. In the two fuse boxes, the only 20 A fuse is the one in the picture which is for the coil, the pump, and the Fl. Although I don't know what Fl is. Fluid?

FI = fuel injection?
 
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