Your Thoughts Please

I've removed the Tupperware so many times on ST1100s I could probably do it with my eyes closed. ;)
When I swapped the side panels bolts to the Honda socket heads (same bolt just socket head instead of JIS)
and replaced the two 10mm head bolts at the back end of the fuel cover with socket heads, I can now strip one down with a 5 mm T-Handle.
That one tool gets me all the way with nothing left but the windshield, garnish, upper/lower fairings, the tailpiece and the gray fairing pockets.
With a JIS screwdriver and a 10 mm socket and wrench I can then strip one down to nothing but the tailpiece.
 
DeanR said:
are you referring to the bolts behind the side panels on each side of the shelter?
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Yes - Lowes or Home Depot carry (or used to) the proper length and thread in stainless steel socket heads (5mm socket head).
Then you don't even need a 10mm socket/ratchet to remove the gas tank shelter.
@kiltman was the originator of that idea!
This comes in real handy if you happen to need to remove the Tupperware on the roadside in a hurry ....

 
Uncle Phil said:
Yes - Lowes or Home Depot carry (or used to) the proper length and thread in stainless steel socket heads (5mm socket head).
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Found correct size today (at Runnings, one of the few places you can actually still get one or two of what you need instead of a pack of em), but they were 4mm head rather than 5.. Gotta do some more looking.
 
Well, I'm back in the camp of replacing the alternator after chatting offline with someone who has done both recently. ;)
I appreciate all the suggestions and will definitely do some more checking before I attempt the alternatordectomy.
I checked with Uncle Phil's Parts House and he happens to have one in stock. :biggrin:
 
Uncle Phil said:
Well, I'm back in the camp of replacing the alternator after chatting offline with someone who has done both recently. ;)
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I'd first start by removing the (hopefully almost empty) tank to give the alternator wiring a visual...
Even replacing VRR and brushes could/should be possible from the top (plus removed pivot cover)...
Or you say 'screw that', pull the swing-arm and replace the bugger just precautionary (gonna need the 91304MAJG41 O-ring though...)
 
ST1100Y said:
I'd first start by removing the (hopefully almost empty) tank to give the alternator wiring a visual...
Even replacing VRR and brushes could/should be possible from the top (plus removed pivot cover)...
Or you say 'screw that', pull the swing-arm and replace the bugger just precautionary (gonna need the 91304MAJG41 O-ring though...)
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Is that the case for 96+ 40 amper?
 
The Rest Of The Story -
After I replaced the alternator, I got 14.6 across the battery terminals when running and the ABS system is now happy.
I took her for a little test ride early this morning and everything seems to be back to 'normal'.
Thanks for all of the ideas, especially the Denso number for the regulator.
Just curious - anybody know of a way to test a ST1100 alternator's output when it is not 'in' the bike?
 
MidLife said:
Don't see how you could do it without spinning it. Probably need dedicated test equipment for it.
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That's my thoughts - I don't know if you hooked a drill up to the shaft if it would spin fast enough ... :think1:
And I sure wouldn't want to go through the install 'process' if I wasn't sure about it! ;)
 
You would need a Drill that has a top speed above 1500 rpm, and make up a wire harness like what the bike has, and a charged battery. My favorite starter/ Alternator shop had a test stand, would test for free, probably cause I was getting him to rebuild a fair amount at one time. G
 
Years ago I went to a local guy that rebuilds alternators. He could spin it up because he had some kind of adapter that allowed it to be hooked up to whatever machine he used.
 
Uncle Phil said:
- I don't know if you hooked a drill up to the shaft if it would spin fast enough ...
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Maybe there is specialist here to confirm, but chances are the alternator spins faster than the engine.

And then, you'd need enough power to spin it under a 4-500 Watt load.

A repair shop might have the equipment to do that.
 
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If you could put a pulley of some kind on the alternator shaft you can run it off of an electric motor with a belt. Different diameter pulleys provide different RPM 's. Easily done this way with automotive alternators as they already have a pulley.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
If you could put a pulley of some kind on the alternator shaft you can run it off of an electric motor with a belt. Different diameter pulleys provide different RPM 's. Easily done this way with automotive alternators as they already have a pulley.
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I build a science project when I was in high school doing that very thing.
Electric motor turning a generator (couldn't get an alternator) that powered a car radio. ;)
 
Uncle Phil said:
The Rest Of The Story -
After I replaced the alternator, I got 14.6 across the battery terminals when running and the ABS system is now happy.
I took her for a little test ride early this morning and everything seems to be back to 'normal'.
Thanks for all of the ideas, especially the Denso number for the regulator.
Just curious - anybody know of a way to test a ST1100 alternator's output when it is not 'in' the bike?
Click to expand...
Glad u got it going. Hate to see a non functioning ST 11 just sitting;)
 
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