How to modify H4 led to reduce glare ST1300

I have not yet successfully ordered the bulbs - this is an image Cindy sent to me in advance of completing my order with her. So - I cannot provide any pictures of performance of this new design.

Maybe you will receive this new type with your order of 6 more sets...
 
Gee I was hoping that I would be done with this and move on to other projects. I requested information on the change of the led and I am waiting for the response. Cindy did say this a while back "As for the H4, we not use Cree chip. We use the Osram chip now. Its light pattern will be much more better." But "much more better" is very subjective. The missing lens will change the light pattern. We will have take a closer look at this change. It might be why they are claiming 4500lm since the Cree's were only good for 3800lm. My proto G6 unit has the Cree chips so I can compare them. My package should arrive by the end of the week...

The change might be measureable but not noticeable...

They are higher power chips being run at 60% power for better life, the Crees were running at 90%. Still waiting for lumen data.
 
Last edited:
Okay, I ordered a set, because I'm curious how well they will be seen while Lane Splitting. Anything to be seen! :D

I haven't gone through this entire thread, but these will work okay with headlight modulators, correct?
 
I lane split every day on the 101 and 118 and the cars see me coming and move out of my way. Oh I have a black bike and they must think I might be a cop.... But I have been told by my riding friends that my headlight is very noticeable. I am not sure if it will work with a modulator. I am guessing that it will not but it depends on how it works. The regulator may have enough head room that it will ride through the pulses. You will have to tell us.

I just got the newest version of the lights and they work very well. The leds without lenses better fill the low beam reflector. Runs 20 watts on low beam and 20 watts on high beam.

I am hoping that those of you who bought these will post your results and photos
 
Last edited:
I lane split every day on the 101 and 118 and the cars see me coming and move out of my way. Oh I have a black bike and they must think I might be a cop.... But I have been told by my riding friends that my headlight is very noticeable. I am not sure if it will work with a modulator. I am guessing that it will not but it depends on how it works. The regulator may have enough head room that it will ride through the pulses. You will have to tell us.

I just got the newest version of the lights and they work very well. The leds without lenses better fill the low beam reflector. Runs 20 watts on low beam and 20 watts on high beam.

I am hoping that those of you who bought these will post your results and photos

Well, we'll find out on the "working with a modulator" then, after I get them.
 
I lane split every day on the 101 and 118 and the cars see me coming and move out of my way. Oh I have a black bike and they must think I might be a cop.... But I have been told by my riding friends that my headlight is very noticeable. I am not sure if it will work with a modulator. I am guessing that it will not but it depends on how it works. The regulator may have enough head room that it will ride through the pulses. You will have to tell us.

I just got the newest version of the lights and they work very well. The leds without lenses better fill the low beam reflector. Runs 20 watts on low beam and 20 watts on high beam.

I am hoping that those of you who bought these will post your results and photos


Cindy just notified me that mine have shipped. I will take before and after photos of the beams, against my white garage door...
 
I think they over compensated on the twist. The ST has slop so I was able to make it level without any effort. If the twist is at the stops you can bend the driver side shield up and the passenger side shield down a few degrees to make it level. I am having the same issue with the DRZ housing. Or if you over torque the bulb, It will push past the stop (with out breaking anything) and you can get it level. I tried this on three bulbs with out breaking the plastic nubs. The mounting ring is flexible enough that there is no damage.

If you twist the fan 1/8 a turn CCW and pull, it will come out of the mount. You can adjust the two wings that are under the low beam element. You only need to move them 5 degrees to level out the beam. It is just a nudge to get this change. if you do not want to move the wings. Reinsert the light into the mount and turn it 1/8 turn CW till it stops. Then continue twisting the fan housing just past the stop another 5 degrees to get it level. It will work. You do not have to do anything to your light housing or bike.

I gave feed back to the manufacture about this inconvenience. They will look into it. I also heard back that they are working on a "yellow" version. I asked what they meant by "yellow" since I know that some are still looking for a lower color temp.
 
Here is a Third way to fix the level issue with the G6. I suggested that they just move the pin locations by a few degrees. In the mean time a few of you got these lights. So if you are careful with an small sharp knife you can trim the small plastic pins in the mounting ring. The two pins are different sizes to prevent you from mount the light upside down. I split each pin in half. See photos. I marked the side to remove in red (center photo). I did the same on both sides. The picture on the left is the original. the picture on the right is after it was trimmed. This was enough to get it level. Again the ST1300 (honda mount) with the trimmed bottom tabs has enough play that you do not need to do this.

mountTrimG6.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here is a Third way to fix the level issue with the G6. I suggested that they just move the pin locations by a few degrees. In the mean time a few of you got these lights. So if you are careful with an small sharp knife you can trim the small plastic pins in the mounting ring. The two pins are different sizes to prevent you from mount the light upside down. I split each pin in half. See photos. I marked the side to remove in red (center photo). I did the same on both sides. The picture on the left is the original. the picture on the right is after it was trimmed. This was enough to get it level. Again the ST1300 (honda mount) with the trimmed bottom tabs has enough play that you do not need to do this.

mountTrimG6.jpg

So when you trimmed these off you would have to trim the bottom of the right pin as you did the top of left pin looking at your pictures?
 
I got my bulbs installed today. It went much easier than I thought it would! My bulbs were off a few degrees as explained and I just did the over twist like spiderman suggested. Wasn't hard and the bulbs are still held firmly. I didn't get the bike out on the road, but the beam pattern against the garage door was great. Well defined beam cutoff. I'm very happy for less than $40 shipped! :D
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom