Valve Adjust

[Bikerbill]

Hi Guys Waddaya tink
I have 63000 on my '06 ST1300. I am doing a valve clearance check and I have 3 exhaust valves on the left bank are out by one thousandth on the tight side. I would really like to button it up. What do you think?

 

[dduelin]

Button it up and pretend most ST1300s never need a valve check or adjustment, ever, or for some arbitrary larger than 63,000 mile figure. It works for many owners.

If that doesn’t work for you then do the adjustment to bring those out of tolerance valves back into specification.

 

[Kevcules]

You're going to get different respons es.....

My opinion..... if it's out of the range, shim it so it's within the proper range then you're done with valves for a long time.

 

[Bush]

If it was an intake valve, you might be OK with leaving it. Being exhaust valves too tight, you run the risk of blowing a hole right through them, when they get white hot from not enough time on their seats. Intakes run cooler than exhaust valves. NOT worth the risk of a valve job becoming necessary.

 

[CYYJ]

Here's a middle of the road alternative: Make a careful record of what valves need a shim change, then, bring the bike to a "tech event" in your region sometime this summer. You can get hands-on help changing the shims there, and that will give you the confidence to change shims by yourself in the future if changes are needed.

Plus, you'll have fun and probably eat well at the tech event.

Michael

 

[TPadden]

You're going to get different respons es.....

My opinion..... if it's out of the range, shim it so it's within the proper range then you're done with valves for a long time.

Kind of like mature underwear ... DEPENDS.

It really depends on whether the clearance is changing. If you've checked it before and it tightened in 20,000 miles or so I'd adjust, if it hasn't changed I'd button it up for another 20-30K. Frankly since you're concerned enough to start a discussion here, face the music, that's what you get for checking them in the first place.

Tom

 

[Bikerbill]

Boy you guys are tough. Thanks for the input

 

[Bush]

Boy you guys are tough. Thanks for the input

Peace of mind means adjusting those valves. There is good reason why there is a specification for valve clearances.

 

[TPadden]

Peace of mind means adjusting those valves. There is good reason why there is a specification for valve clearances.

Different strokes, peace of mind means going for a ride. More people break their bikes and minds tinkering with unnecessary quantum mechanics.

Tom

 

[st1300doug]

If I had to use a % of ST1300's that 'needed' no adjustment even at 95,000+ mile...it'd be over 90%. I have 92K on my 2006. Never checked. Why? No valve clatter, starts instantly, still get 44 MPG+, and it's rare I ever rev' the engine past 6500 RPM. I'm going to leave it alone UNTIL 125,000 miles.

 

[Scooter]

...I have 3 exhaust valves on the left bank are out by one thousandth on the tight side. I would really like to button it up. What do you think?

Bill, what are your actual measurements? Some of our more anal members want to adjust them anytime they deviate from the mean even if they are within spec. For the exhaust anything .008" to .010" is good. If yours are sitting at .007", you aren't going to hurt anything by leaving them alone for awhile and checking them again later. Run some Seafoam through a couple of tanks before you open it up the next time. You just might have some carbon buildup that is giving you a few tight loose readings also.

I've been on this forum since 2005 and have yet to hear of any 1300 having a burned valve. OK, so I asked Uncle Google and came up with one example but it sounds like something fishy was going on with the engine before the incident. Too bad the pictures aren't still accessible...

 

[ST-Traveler]

Left bank is the PIA side. I did an exhaust valve this winter on the RS and it was quit intimidating to say the least. It is something you'll have to think about. The cam chain tensioner on that side is under the throttle body.

 

[Bush]

Bill, if you are thinking of going with Scooter's advice, it would be good for you to get, in writing, his guarantee that he will pay for a valve job on your engine, IF it should ever be required. I stress again, that these are exhaust valves, which run hotter than intakes and yes, maybe you do have some carbon build up, but that makes the situation even worse, as the carbon on the valve seats will act as an insulator, restricting heat transfer from the valve to the seat even more. That carbon can also become super heated and contribute to blowing a hole in the valve face.

Not every ST1300 owner in the world is on this site, so to say that it is unheard of here means very little. Also, there are those that play roulette with things like this and then are rather reticent about admitting their errors on a forum.

If Honda thought .007 was OK, it would be spec'd as such. Are you going to wait until the measurement reads .006? If a valve has gotten tight, it isn't going to loosen up again.

If they are within spec, leave 'em alone. If out of spec, they need adjusting.

 

[Bush]

If I had to use a % of ST1300's that 'needed' no adjustment even at 95,000+ mile...it'd be over 90%. I have 92K on my 2006. Never checked. Why? No valve clatter, starts instantly, still get 44 MPG+, and it's rare I ever rev' the engine past 6500 RPM. I'm going to leave it alone UNTIL 125,000 miles.

There's an important point you seem to be unaware of here Doug. You won't hear any valve clatter when they are too tight, which is where you will get into a burned valve situation.

Even if 90% of 1300's never need adjustment, out of a world wide production number, I'm thinking that other 10% is a very significant number of bikes that DO need an adjustment. I'm guessing you are good at the gambling tables too.

 

[roginoz]

I've had to adjust mine a few times over 139,000 miles. They tend to tighten up, so being out of spec on the tight side is a bit more of a concern. I'd shim them to the loose side of spec (then manual gives you a thousandth either way.) The good news is that the left side is easier to do than the right side; the cam chain tension release is easier to reach.

 

[wjbertrand]

Run some Seafoam through a couple of tanks before you open it up the next time. You just might have some carbon buildup that is giving you a few tight readings.

Agree running some sea foam is not a bad idea, but if there is carbon build up, removing it will result in tighter clearances, not looser.
Carbon deposits, if present, tend to hold the valve away from the seat slightly, increasing clearance at the opposite end. It won’t cause tight clearances.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[sennister]

Say, I am coming up on needing an oil change and was wondering what kind I should use???


Not trying to start yet another oil thread but you are going to get a lot of different responses by a question like I am just out of spec on my valve clearance. For me, I inspect and when out of spec, I re-shim. Granted after you have done it a few times on various bikes and have a shim kit, it isn't that big of a deal. Take your time and do your research there is plenty of info out here and the worksheets that go a long way to taking care of this maintenance item.

A Tech Event is one option. The only word of warning I have for that is that the engine should be cold. Maybe the tech event is close enough and you have the option of riding over the day before. Then that is fine. If not, I would be a little hesitant. You could wait until it cooled off but then you are burning most the day and have a big project to do. Also I will say this about tech events. I have been to them, even hosted them. I agree they are great. I would be a little hesitant as well to the fact that you can get lots of fingers working on a bike. It is helpful when you don't know what you are doing but best intentions sometimes ends up in a case of who took off part _ and where did it go? Was everything torqued to spec? For something more sensitive like this, personally I would look for more one on one help. Or maybe someone else is getting a re-shim done. Then be the helper for it so you can see the process. They are great for installing driving lights and some other maint. I would just be a little cautious with valve clearance changes. If it is a just a check then that is fine.

I agree that by the time you hear something it is way too late. Granted my hearing sucks due to blast damage when I was in the Army. Who knows, maybe someone out there has super hearing though...

As others kind of hint at, is it tight and holding or has there been a big change. That is why checking and logging is helpful but you can't go back in time and see how they have progressing if you don't have it. You only have your current readings.

In the end it is your decision. Kind of like what kind of oil you are going to use. There is a spec. I am sure that the spec has a little wiggle room. Honda probably is the only one that would know. I follow the spec and move on. That is hard this time of year as everyone wants to get out on the road. It is also hard for us to make a recommendation as we don't know how your ride or the history. Are you running around all day bouncing off the rev limiter? Are you an Iron Butt Rider and have plans this year to rack up 50K miles? Do you only commute 5 miles each way to work and that is all the riding you get in because of everything going on in your life? All of these things would impact what my recommendation is for should you adjust now or if it can wait for a winter project.

 

[ReSTored]

Just finished up first valve check and adjustment I've done vs. paying a shop to do it.

Question I have is re those reusable gaskets for the valve covers. Manual tells you to use gasket sealer on the 4 half moons when reassembling although I note in the video I watched the guy did not appear to use anything. The shop that previously did my valve adjustment certainly used some and it a bear to remove. I was thinking about using Permatex gasket remover but I'm concerned it might damage the rubber gasket.

So 2 questions here. Is it absolutely necessary to use gasket sealer on the valve cover gasket and how do people get the residual gasket material off of the gasket?

 

[TPadden]

I agree that by the time you hear something it is way too late.

... and where are any of these ST burned valves, damaged heads, and engines that have waited until it is way too late? I'm sure there must be one somewhere.

Tom

 

[sennister]

I have had good luck with a dental pick. It is a long process. They are not that expensive to replace if I recall the last time I replaced them.