It is just a turn of the screw...but there are quite a few screws to turn. You probably should check the sag before you start, to determine if you need stronger springs, or different spacers for preload.Thought as much. Did hope for a "just turn that screw" - kind of answer, but there you go.
Thanks for your time.
Thomas
If you do this there's a good chance the bike will lurch forward enough to fall off the center stand, so this technique is very risky. supporting the front end with a jack makes a lot of sense in this application, then you can gently lower the bike once the caps are removed.3. Remove the fork caps one by one. The bike will sag forward abruptly with removal of the last, so be ready. The forks are now fully compressed.
Yeah, there's no chance. I thought the same thing. "Oh no! The bike will fall over! I put a strap through the front wheel, and through the centerstand to keep exactly that from happening. Yes, you DO have to catch the bike as the last cap comes off. But its not a big deal, get an extra person to help if you are worried. The bike doesn't "lurch", it smoothly slides down its forks. There isn't all that much weight on the front wheel while on the centerstand either. I'm guessing 50-60lbs, tops. If you are really worried about it, park the bike with the wheel against the wall, or chocked. Or have a helper sit on the back of the seat, holding the front wheel off the ground, then slowly lower it after the caps are off.If you do this there's a good chance the bike will lurch forward enough to fall off the center stand, so this technique is very risky. supporting the front end with a jack makes a lot of sense in this application, then you can gently lower the bike once the caps are removed.
Personally, I always take the fork tubes off the bike when doing any work on them. Its not that much extra work to remove them from the bike.
I typically change the fork oil every other tire change, so I already have the wheel off the bike to begin with, forgot to mention that the last time. That leaves only the fender bolts and triple clamp bolts, hardly any extra work.Regarding the "not that much extra work". Remove brake calipers, speedo cable, wheel, fender, etc. Then get up under the fairing and break the triple tree clamps loose, etc. That to me is quite a bit, and entirely unnecessary for an simple oil change. I did new springs and an oil change in about an hour and a half.
Imho even 38 PSI is too much for the front. Mine rides best with the 36 PSI factory recommended pressures for the front and 42 factory pressures for the rear. If I go much over that I start to feel every bump/ pebble in the road.2 things to try:
Reduce front tire to 38 PSI
Check fork alignment, Do the loosen and bounce procedure.
It probably won't make a big problem go away but could help a little.
You didn't mention which tire is mounted. Or how old it is.
Whereas, I had cupping of the front tire (Metzeler) at 36 psi, but cured it with 38 psi. I can't imagine that two psi is going to make the ride "bloody hard", as I believe the OP was insinuating is his problem.Imho even 38 PSI is too much for the front. Mine rides best with the 36 PSI factory recommended pressures for the front and 42 factory pressures for the rear. If I go much over that I start to feel every bump/ pebble in the road.