- Joined
- Oct 26, 2020
- Messages
- 1,746
- Location
- Makefield Highlands PA
- Bike
- 2016 ST1300P
- 2024 Miles
- 003726
This is getting very exciting, you’re getting close Robert. I may want to ride out to IA for the maiden voyage.
I could use a rider to follow behind to watch if the trailer rides steady or sways while at speed. I might have to install a bar end mirror on one side just to keep an eye on it while riding.This is getting very exciting, you’re getting close Robert. I may want to ride out to IA for the maiden voyage.
Don't worry; if it sways, you'll know.I could use a rider to follow behind to watch if the trailer rides steady or sways while at speed.
The uni-go I had on the ST1300 would wobble if I had delkevic 2-pc exhaust but not w/oem 1-pc exhausts... just took that little bit of structural weakness to cause the wobble... and you'd feel it after about 50mph... so, as stated above, you will know if you have an issue and need to firm something up..Yeah, I remember that happening once or twice with my other trailers on my other bikes. I could feel it even though it was very minor. I even felt it one time when pulling a bike on a U-Haul mc trailer with my car. Again, a very minor event that settled down quickly.
Structure.. the delkevics are attached to the bike via the strap and that's the rear part of the exhaust, then another pipe attached to the exhaust and pipe coming from exhaust header... whereas the oem exhasst i s a single piece that is very solid.@Mellow , Was that due to structure or airflow? (I remember reading about your adventures with your Uni-Go).
KISS... your not pulling a horseThis is what I was talking about in my last post...
The bend would offset the flat bar about 1.5" on one side and 1.75" on the other side. Just concerned about the twisting force that just using the spacer can put on the C channel.
Very true. But I was considering a way to do away with having the spacer. Although, on another forum a member suggested forming a leg with a flat bar welded on the initial flat bar so there would be one on both sides of the bike frame. But as you said... I'm not pulling a horse... or horse trailer. I have not noted any twist when I had the tubing bolted in tight during a test fit and I grabbed the ends to try and wiggle them around in all directions. The entire bike and hitch tubing moved as one unit. Just like if I had grabbed the rear wheel and wiggled that around. Actually, it was very little movement if any at all since it did more scooting on the center stand pads on the garage floor than any actual frame movement (just an indication of how hard I was pulling it around).KISS... your not pulling a horse
Rob, I have a light duty trailer hitch on my Accord, 2000 lbs. max . Part of it is bolted thru the trunk floor, sheet metal with large metal washers.Very true. But I was considering a way to do away with having the spacer. Although, on another forum a member suggested forming a leg with a flat bar welded on the initial flat bar so there would be one on both sides of the bike frame. But as you said... I'm not pulling a horse... or horse trailer. I have not noted any twist when I had the tubing bolted in tight during a test fit and I grabbed the ends to try and wiggle them around in all directions. The entire bike and hitch tubing moved as one unit. Just like if I had grabbed the rear wheel and wiggled that around. Actually, it was very little movement if any at all since it did more scooting on the center stand pads on the garage floor than any actual frame movement (just an indication of how hard I was pulling it around).
Basically, since the trailer weight is or will be about 150 lbs or less, it is the same or very similar to a 150 lb passenger sitting on the pillion with feet raised off the foot pegs. I know leverage due to the trailer hanging a ways out the back makes it different but also so does the detail that there should be no more than 50 lbs tongue weight on the receiver. The seat is attached near the very front by the latches and sits on rubber bumpers right next to the front latches. It is attached at the extreme rear end of the rear-most section of the frame by the seat hinge with no real support points between the front and rear. There is a weather seal around the top of the storage box under the seat but that doesn't provide much support at all since the seat doesn't squish it all the way down. And once the hitch is firmly bolted to the rear frame it should also function as one unit with the rear frame.If there was twisting force coming down tubing, it would cause exactly same twist on C-channel with both those attachments anyway. As it is, there is no longitudinal twisting of C-channel frame tubing in either configuration of attachments with or without spacer.
Once you have rear crossbar attached, both tubes will be held at constant separation at mounting points and function as one unit. Will create lateral pivot axis for both tubes to be loaded and move in unison like with swingarm. This will prevent any twisting of individual tubes.
There will be mostly vertical forces on tubing from trailer resulting in torque around axis of clamping bolts. With dual bolts per side, this results in just vertical bending forces on C-channel like someone standing on rear-most section of frame.
With lateral yawing motion of trailer going around corners, this applies tiny lateral bending forces on C-channel. But is very minor compared to vertical loading. No twisting in either case.
Since I'll be bolting the end plate on the issue of removing the hitch frame from the bike separate from the body panels won't be an issue. (I guess I mentioned about that earlier).At some point, as you mentioned, you will have to take the hitch off to service something else on the bike (or if you want to sell it). The level of difficulty you set for removal, i.e. how much other bodywork, framework, etc. has to be unbolted to allow this is part of the planning and design.
In post 101, top picture, you show that the hitch is inside the top frame member and outside the lower frame. If you join the two bars by welding, you won't be able to get the hitch off the bike - at least from my armchair perspective 684 miles away. I think you need to design a way to separate the two arms to allow removal. Or am I missing something?
You did not answer my q re who is doing the welding. From your pictures in post 95, the welds do not appear to me to be professionally done. I freely admit to being an amateur when it comes to welding, and I have had some welds fail. I'm not criticizing you, but a well bolted strong joint can more easily be made than a good strong weld by someone like me.