Rear Brake Dragging

I have a 2005 ABS with 20,000 miles on it. I replaced all the brake pads and flushed the system at 16,000. I was riding on the freeway a week ago and felt the bike bogging a bit and when I rolled off the throttle it started coming to a stop so I popped the rear brake a couple of times and it freed up and felt normal. When I got home I pulled the rear wheel to check, clean and lube every thing I could think of in the back but found nothing wrong but signs of a hot brake rotor. The next time I rode it I had gone about 80 miles and had just passed thru the East LA interchange and was in the fast lane when I felt it bogging down again, when I started to back off the throttle it was like someone threw an anchor overboard. I had to down shift and use full throttle to keep the pig moving long enough to get across 4 lanes of traffic to the right shoulder (There was no left shoulder) As soon as I backed off gas and pulled in the clutch it came to an abrupt stop. I can tell you a team of wild horses couldn't have moved that thing. The rear brake was blue and the brake pedal was hard as a rock, the left front rotor was hot and right front was warm but brake lever was normal. After sitting for awhile and working the brakes it freed up so I slowly limped to Honda of Glendale. The dealer said they found a clip off in the rear master cyl. that might be blocking the fluid return (I have my doubts) so at the moment Mother Honda has agreed to replace the rear master cyl., rotor and pads. I've told them about the problems in this post but they think I'm nuts. I'm going to offer to pay them to inspect the SMC and if trouble is there they can fix it if not I'll pay them for their time. Sorry for the hijack and long post but this problem could be very dangerous IMO.
 
Update:

Talked to the dealer, they seem to be knowledgeable. Anyway they did check the SMC and found nothing wrong with it, no corrosion or leaks (internal or external) Hope the rear master fixes it.
 
Keep us posted Ron. My rear brakes started dragging a little just before going to Weaverville. Now much more noticable during longer rides in hot weather. Rear brake pedal travel is much greater as well with seemingly less stopping power from the rear brake. I'll inspect the smc and rear caliper assembly tomorrow. All this at 30 days past warranty coverage lapsed.
 
It appears riding in the rain may be a primary cause for much of this
corrosion around the brake components, particularly the SMC. Preventative
maintenance appears to be the cure in more frequent bleeding and flushing
as well as corrosion checks on the pad pins and SMC bracket pivot and
SMC dust boot/piston rod.

Stay out of the rain; the vehicle just isn't made for it. Ever wonder why there
isn't a windshield wiper on the windshield?
 
Harpo said:
It appears riding in the rain may be a primary cause for much of this
corrosion around the brake components, particularly the SMC. Preventative
maintenance appears to be the cure in more frequent bleeding and flushing
as well as corrosion checks on the pad pins and SMC bracket pivot and
SMC dust boot/piston rod.

Stay out of the rain; the vehicle just isn't made for it. Ever wonder why there
isn't a windshield wiper on the windshield?
Click to expand...

LOL... now that's funny right there I don't care who you are.

When I picked up my '08 THAT was the only trip, from OK to TX, that I've been on where I did not get rained on... On EVERY single trip I've done since, I've been rained on.. LOL
 
After having my SMC serviced under warranty for the same rear dragging issue, I elected to seal the boot to the housing with silicone. The boot as it is currently designed( on my 2005) fits loose enough that dirt and water cant help but get inside the SMC even with a clean weep hole. :biker:
 
Does it seem that the SMC rubber boot could be compressed tighter onto the
push rod with a zip-tie? Gotta look at that tomorrow and maybe do that to
mine.
 
SCLDR2 said:
Keep us posted Ron. My rear brakes started dragging a little just before going to Weaverville. Now much more noticable during longer rides in hot weather. Rear brake pedal travel is much greater as well with seemingly less stopping power from the rear brake. I'll inspect the smc and rear caliper assembly tomorrow. All this at 30 days past warranty coverage lapsed.
Click to expand...


Ditto!!!

I wish I'd read this before splashing out on new rear seals, bleeds, and the like. It's not been picked up on the recent Honda Dealership service despite my nagging. I may review next week.

I don't like the rear pedal dropping under pressure (after stopping) and have had the brakes bled by 3 service centres and it still happens.


.
 
Shadowfax-ST said:
Ditto!!!

I don't like the rear pedal dropping under pressure (after stopping) and have had the brakes bled by 3 service centres and it still happens.
Click to expand...

Pedal drop could be coming from the SMC piston moving back once stopped. Oil to the SMC comes from the rear circuit. Mine does same.
 
As the front caliper's rear master cylinder unloads after stopping, the rear pedal will drop slightly if the foot is pressing the pedal. One other manifestation of this unique braking system is that when you're testing the front head bearing for looseness by holding down the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth while listening for a clunk .. you WILL feel a slight clunk .. and you may think your head bearing is loose.

It probably isn't; it's probably that front caliper rear master cylinder compressing and unloading .. and that back-and-forth piston movement feels exactly like loose head bearings clunking.
 
That's it.... I think I'm selling....

I have a 2007 with 18,000 non-ABS. I had a hot rear rotor, read the forums, replaced the SMC with a complete new assembly, built a brake bleeding machine, and drained and bled my brakes....

It feels "normal" although my rear rotor is still hottish....I no longer have faith in this bike.... it sounds too damn "over-engineered" to me...... I believe it's totally unacceptable to have these kind of problems on a 12K plus bike! Stupid.

I'm done; even though I bought my first Honda in 1966. Kawasaki here I come.
 
Cousin Jack said:
That's it.... I think I'm selling....

I have a 2007 with 18,000 non-ABS. I had a hot rear rotor, read the forums, replaced the SMC with a complete new assembly, built a brake bleeding machine, and drained and bled my brakes....

It feels "normal" although my rear rotor is still hottish....I no longer have faith in this bike.... it sounds too damn "over-engineered" to me...... I believe it's totally unacceptable to have these kind of problems on a 12K plus bike! Stupid.

I'm done; even though I bought my first Honda in 1966. Kawasaki here I come.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are looking for an excuse to buy a new Connie. ;) Even $50,000 cars still break once in a while and are not perfectly designed.

I was one of the originals that had this problem. My 05 was 8 months old and had 12K miles on it when it happened. My bike now has almost 75K on it and the problem has not repeated itself.

The rear brake on an ST will never be cool unless you don't use the brakes at all.
 
No, not necessarily....I love the bike for how it rides and performs. We tour two-up on it; and with MCL's handlebar risers and foot peg extensions, it's as comfortable as the 1100 and 1500 Wings we once rode.....

But it's frustrating to have a nagging issue that might flare up and perhaps cause grave danger to the rider and passenger. Like I posted, I've done the best I can to address the issue; I'm just not sure I have enough confidence in the bike to continue with it....

As anyone "delinked" the brakes? Anyone replaced the brakes with an aftermarket system? Something else?
 
Wow so I,m not the only 1, mine did it last spring at about 8,000 mi. took the rear brake calipers off and lubed slightly and worked back and forth and now no prob. 14,600 on the 08
 
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