My Audiovox Cruise install...

[Jefro]

My Audiovox Cruise Control install works better than I expected. I am very pleased.
I set the switches for medium horsepower, and it engages quickly and smoothly, and without any initial overrun or rpm variation.
I decided against using a vacuum cannister , but can easily add one later if needed.
I elected to place the dash switch as close as possible to the left grip to avoid taking my hand off the bar, and after looking at many brackets, I made a variation of Byron’s mounting bracket.
I have included lots of photos, and give major credit to Ray for his excellent writeup to show me the way through this project.

Schematic:
I spent a good deal of time drawing up an electrical schematic that shows exactly which wires to cut and discard, such as the included magnet sensor wires included with the CCS-100 kit.

Dash bracket:
I used .100 inch thick aluminum (2.5mm) and a bench vise to make a bracket that holds the switch just above the left grip, and positioned between the high beam and emergency flasher switches.

Dash Switch:
There are five wires from the switch, including the power wire, and six wires if you wanted to keep the little gray wire that powers the LEDs behind the two switches. I cut the gray wire then sealed everything up with sensor safe automotive gray silicone sealant.
I decided to toss the 4 connector fitting that came in the kit. Instead I used a 6-pin Hitachi connector for that factory fresh look. The other end of the 6-pin wires went to the Servo. Then I double heat shrink wrapped the bundle for protection.

Quartet Harness:
Adding this item is not necessary, but made the install much smoother because I added a GPS connector as well. The Garmin wire connected to the Black connector, and the Audiovox wire connected to the Red connector. Later, I could add heated grips to the White connector.
I used the Hitachi connectors, fittings and special crimper, and also micro-soldered and shrink wrapped every connector and wire bundle.
There is not much room for the Q-harness, so route it in snug with the existing wire bundles.

Servo Motor:
I set the dip switches for medium power, and removed the unneeded gray and black magnet sensor wires.
I used two u-clamps from the hardware store to mount the servo unit after threading the new throttle cable under the dash area and over to the right side of the frame. I also ran a long length of vacuum hose along the same route.

Purple Brake Wire:
I ran the purple wire over to the bundle on the right side of the frame that is in front of the right coil. Using a tiny jewelers screwdriver, I unplugged the green and yellow brake connector from the existing Hitachi 9 pin connector. I then crimped and soldered the new purple wire to that, then plugged it back in. Some others have constructed quick disconnects, but I decided to make permanent connections.

Blue Coil Wire:
I cut the blue wire much shorter, but kept the inline noise suppressor.
Instead of devising multiple connectors for the blue coil wire, I did something very simple. I unplugged the yellow coil wire, then used a pair of small pliers to hold onto the connector while I slid back the rubber sleeve, made much easier with a bit of elecrical grease. I then slipped in the blue wire along side the yellow, and soldered the blue wire directly onto the crimped yellow wire. Then I added more electrical grease as I slid the rubber cover back down over both wires. Very clean and neat.

Vacuum Check Valve:
I found a great little vacuum fitting at Kragen Auto Parts (Vacutite 47356) that fits below the map sensor. Instead of a T-fitting, it is more like a double L-fitting. Works great, and there is no kinking of the hoses.
I used the NAPA 2-1015 one way check valve inline near the throttle cables.

Rubber Heat Mat:
With the tank up and the air cleaner off, I noticed that the main wire bundle for the Q-Harness was resting against the valve cover. It looked like the wires would get cooked and brittle over time. So I used contact cement to add a small piece of thin rubber to protect the wires.

Throttle Bracket:
I originally used the long throttle bracket (3 exposed holes) and only 5 balls as per a writeup I had seen last year, but when I tried to install the air cleaner base, it would not fit. It hit the throttle bracket, and there was no way to make this work without major surgery to the air cleaner.
So I started over, and cut the bracket much shorter so there was only one exposed hole, the one that bolted to the fuel injection body using a few small washers and a longer bolt.
Then I had to use 14 balls to get the proper length for the cable and throttle arm. I heat shrink wrapped the ends of the balls and its connectors, and tie wrapped the new cable for security.
Now the air cleaner base fits fine, but I still had a minor clearance problem with the rubber underside ribs of the hose holder. I simply used a razor knife to trim the ribs a bit, and now everything fits without any interference.
While I was in there, I took out the slack from the two throttle cables, and made sure I had a bit of slack in the new cable. I spent a good deal of time making sure this part of the install was perfect.
I did not want to have to do this a second time later.

I have included photos for your viewing enjoyment.
Jefro.

[Byron]

Jefro,

Nice install but I have a word of warning. You mentioned that you "tie wrapped the new cable for security." I didn't notice them in any of the photos. You need to be aware that if you open the throttle wide open there is a possibility that the cruise control chain can droop and get caught on the bottom of the linkage and lock your throttle open in a run away condition. I know because I had it happen to me. Under hard accelleration the chain swung back and got caught. It surprised the you know what out of me even though I knew it was possible. After that I reconfigured back to the short 7-bead (5 exposed) chain set. Elongating the far right bracket hole to allow the bracket to set lower and removing the breather hose support gave me enough clearance for the air box bottom to fit properly.

[Jefro]

Byron,
the tie wrap in photo #3405 is around the black outer cable covering near the bracket bolt to support the length of the cable. The 14 beads themselves are not tie wrapped, but hang loose.
I checked out the possiblity of a chain snag very closely. This is something I was VERY aware of, and spent a great deal of time examining. The length of chain, location, mounting points and bracket make it extremely unlikely that the chain will snag underneath the existing throttle brackets. Even under wide open conditions, there wasn't enough chain to get under the brackets.
I will agree, after initially using only 5 beads, that the shorter length of chain makes it impossible to snag under the throttle brackets.
I appreciate your concern,
Jefro.

[dteel]

Jefro,

Excellent write up, thanks for sharing the detailed photos too. I followed Ray's directions pretty much to a tee. I'm considering changing my dip switch settings next time I'm "under the hood". I used the settings recommend by Ray and I think I'd like a bit more aggressive control.

Out of curiosity what exact settings did you use?

[Scooter]

Originally Posted by dteel

I'm considering changing my dip switch settings next time I'm "under the hood". I used the settings recommend by Ray and I think I'd like a bit more aggressive control.

Dana,

I initially went with the settings that Ray had in his writeup but I found that they were not as responsive as I'd like so earlier this spring I changed it to the Medium setting. Let me tell you that I'm glad that I did! Now when you press the SET button, BINGO, it's controlling the speed right away.

The switch settings for the medium sensitivity would be:

SW1 - ON
SW2 - OFF
SW3 - OFF
SW4 - OFF
SW5 - OFF
SW6 - OFF
SW7 - ON

The only switch setting that you need to change is SW4 from ON to OFF if you are at the low sensitivity setting currently.

Hope this helps.

[Jefro]

Turn off #4.
#1 and #7 only are on.
Jefro.

[fredz43]

I agree with the medium sensitivity setting. In doing this I find that I have instant engagement, excellent speed control going uphill and no need to add a vacuum cannister, which is only another item that can fail and is totally unnecessary.

[dteel]

Thanks, that is the exact settings that we used when I helped Mandel install his cruise control. He has reported some surging and was considering backing it off to Ray's suggested settings. I wonder if the setting works better for heaver riders and not so well with lighter riders?

In my case I think I need to make the change. Just not ripping off the tupperware just to move a dip switch.

[WeeSTer]

Ray's settings work fine for us with no lag when riding two-up fully loaded but we have the vac canister so maybe that makes a difference.

[Sink]

Just finished mine today on my ST1100. That thing ROCKS!!!!!
Works great with only 1 and 7 on. I did the vacuum canister. Not hard to make at all and I pulled a steep long hill (well, for Nebraska anyway) today and it held like a CHAMP! No surging at all.
Dana.... Are you saying I'm fat???

Now I can ride with no hands! (just kidding)