1300 LED headlights

[RichKat]

Got the Cougar lights today, install was, interesting (I have big hands), I pulled the instrument cluster, but still very tight. Had a lot of trouble with first lamp's connector, but got it,second one much easier, I did trim the center of the rubber cover to clear the back fan part of the bulb. After dark I'll take a test ride, but in the garage, it looks fantastic

 

[RichKat]

Rode to work (in the dark) and WOW, I LOVE them, low beam is very wide, with a sharp cut off, it does project farther than stock , but it looks like it's less in the face of oncoming traffic. High beams are like aircraft landing lights, I could see a stop sign reflect (I'm not joking) a half mile or more away. And on the way home, every car I flashed my high beams at jumped out of the fast lane

 

[Larry Fine]

At WV-STOC, I needed to replace both ST110 headlight bulbs, as the second low-beam went out. I took off the windshield, trim, etc., so I could see the headlight housing from above. With help, I got the old bulbs, H4s with adapter rings, out, but couldn't get the new LED plates to seat and get the bail wires latched.

I finally concluded that I had to remove the headlight housing to get everything installed. I looked in the shop manuals I brought in the car, Honda and Clymer, and read what needed to be removed to get the housing out. I then decided there was no way I was gong to do all that, and tried again until it got dark.

The next morning, I tried again, finally deciding I had to take the housing out, deciding I was not going to take the housing out, trying again, and back and forth until I decided to try to take it out without removing everything the manuals said to. So, I brought a bar chair out of the cabin and started to open up the nose.

I removed as few fasteners as I could and managed to separate the nose of the fairing just enough to get the housing out. With it sitting between my knees, I was able to see that both bail wires and one latch clip needed to be tweaked for full engagement, and to let the wires pass as I twisted the bulbs into the plates.

With the bulbs in place, I tried them to make sure they worked. I noticed that the engine needed to be running for them to properly switch between low and high. Then I reversed the disassembly, got everything back together, and I only had two screws left over! I know where they go, and I can put them back in later.

I haven gone for a ride in the dark yet.

 

[RichKat]

I removed the shield and instrument pod, and just had enough room to do the job, but, I had a lot of trouble squeezing the connection to the lamps (big hands and the weak fingers). The other trouble I had was the retaining bale, it wouldn't clear the larger back end of the LED lamp (the Cougar lamps have built in fans, and are a LOT larger than stock) I wound up pulling the lamp back a little, then working the bail between the fan section and the flat retaining ring part, then pushing forward together, till seated, then clip the bail in to hold it
Once I figured it out it was fairly easy

 

[ST Gui]

the Cougar lamps have built in fans

I hadn't seen any prior mention of that. It seemed like it based on the recent install reports. There was one report of another bulb where the used didn't know (until after) that the fan was removable and the rubber boot didn't need to be cut.

My G6 Eviteks have built-ON fans that are removeable

It was the flange/mounting base that was removable. The bulb and fan were indeed one unit. This is a pic (not mine) of what my install entailed. Powder wadding musket ball.



Note the old school orientation of the G6 emitters. With this particular install a dead LED bulb could simply (?!) be unplugged from the driver/ballast/thingy then removed from the mounting base without fooling with the bail.

 

[RichKat]

. I'll keep all the above in mind should I upgrade to the Cougars.

I figured the fans are there for a reason, I cut about a 1" opening in the rubber, it's tight on the end of the lamp. The built in fan spins inside the housing, so the rubber boot can be snug to it and seal around the lamp, but still allow air flow to the lamp

 

[Larry Fine]

I just remembered that I took a couple of pics.

I also noticed that the word (EUROPE) is on the rear of the housing, upper right corner of the second pic, next to the adjuster cable clamp. Does that mean it's a European housing?

The sockets have the notches at 4 and 8 o'clock, not at 5 and 7.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Does that mean it's a European housing?

If it is, a standard H4/9003 bulb should fit without cutting off the two lower tabs and without the need for shims. I write should because I don't know if that is the case for all European countries. @kiltman has one and could probably answer that question.

I hadn't seen any prior mention of that. It seemed like it based on the recent install reports. There was one report of another bulb where the used didn't know (until after) that the fan was removable and the rubber boot didn't need to be cut.

My G6 Eviteks have built-ON fans that are removeable

It was the flange/mounting base that was removable. The bulb and fan were indeed one unit. This is a pic (not mine) of what my install entailed. Powder wadding musket ball.



Note the old school orientation of the G6 emitters. With this particular install a dead LED bulb could simply (?!) be unplugged from the driver/ballast/thingy then removed from the mounting base without fooling with the bail.

Thanks for that picture- wire is at the bottom and so is the deflector shield. This confirms to me that mine were assembled upside down at the factory.

New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter. | Lighting / Visibility

The bulbs look very similar to the earlier F2's I have, including the orientation of the LEDs. The wire on mine also comes out on the side at the 6:00 position when installed. That way the "cup" on the bottom side of the LED facing upward. As for the slighlty non vertical position, that is...

www.st-owners.com

 

[kiltman]

Does that mean it's a European housing?

It could. I don’t see the socket for the pilot bulb at the bottom of the unit. In some countries in Europe, it is illegal to run your headlights in cities at night as the streets are already well lit, hence the pilot bulb. Its low wattage is enough to illuminate the vehicles existence.
The European headlights allow for a standard H4 bulb to be installed. At the time of manufacture the North American market restricted the wattage output on double low beam headlights to 90 watts hence the proprietary 45watt bulbs with different tab locations.

 

[kdmoore]

Updating my experience ....
Took a ride, about an hour. Got off bike to add my liner to my riding gear (55-60 degrees but I got too cold!)
Bike was left off.
Started bike up to return home and the high beams would not light .... I thought "oh boy" But trying them a little later (15 seconds?) and they worked fine ... I am not sure of issue. Could be needed the motor running faster? Could have been heat related? regardless, I'll just continue to watch them.

Looking at the new posts, I wonder if I have restricted too much air flow by using the boots.

But the hour ride back home was a LITTLE warmer ... but I guess I'll need to spend $$$ on heated gear if I'm going to drive this thing cross country! Good thing I'm rich .... NOT.

two more observations. I got blinded by my own headlights! approached a "road closed" sign that was mostly white ... and the amount of light heading back at me was astounding ... Holy Cow these things are bright! Love it. I also agree with the RichKat's description, the side fill was welcomed by me ... my biggest fear are dear on the sides of roads so I welcome this, but wish I had it with highbeams too! I'll add some running lights over the winter. I had same type of changing of my mind that Larry Fine had so I'll take my time adding them (I want to start a trip in the next few days if I can swing my vacation time right).

A minor point that I noticed. The plugs for my lights are smooth sided/green .... there are not clips to squeeze. I have only seen people show the clipped connectors.... you can see them many places/videos ... for instance the top pic of Larry Fine in his above post. They seem very snug, and I think my install was slightly easier not needing to fight with the clips.

 

[RichKat]

Holy Cow these things are bright
there are not clips to squeeze
I agree with kdmoore, they are incredibly bright
I think I'll wrap small zip ties around the connector
It's 75° here in North Central Texas, and I noticed that the fans on the lamps were running, ever time I looked, so I think the rubber boots should be cut

 

[Larry Fine]

A minor point that I noticed. The plugs for my lights are smooth sided/green .... there are not clips to squeeze. I have only seen people show the clipped connectors.... you can see them many places/videos ... for instance the top pic of Larry Fine in his above post. They seem very snug, and I think my install was slightly easier not needing to fight with the clips.

The headlight connectors are the same three-prong type as most sealed-beam headlights; no latch or lock.

KD, where in Henrico are you? I'm in Raintree, off Ridgefield Pkwy. I'd be happy to help you with the lights.

I believe what is in the little box is a diode, so the low-beams stay on when you switch on the high-beams.

Plus, the fans, which cool the LEDS, run when the lights receive power; they are not thermostat controlled.

 

[jodog]

I figured the fans are there for a reason, I cut about a 1" opening in the rubber, it's tight on the end of the lamp. The built in fan spins inside the housing, so the rubber boot can be snug to it and seal around the lamp, but still allow air flow to the lamp

You don't want to run without the rubber boots. AMHIK.

 

[Larry Fine]

You don't want to run without the rubber boots. AMHIK.

Okay, I'll ask: "Jo, how do you know that don't I want to run without the rubber boots?"

I didn't put mine on because they appeared to block the airflow through the slots in the heat sinks.

Plus, I avoid riding in the rain when possible. I'll continue if I have to, but never start out in the rain.

 

[RichKat]

You don't want to run without the rubber boots. AMHIK.

I cut about a 1" hole from the center of the boot, it's a tight fit around the lamps, but leaving the fan uncovered. Since the fan blows out, don't think it's a problem
Not easy to get a picture, but you can see the boot around the lamp

 

[Obo]

I noticed that the fans on the lamps were running, ever time I looked

As far as I know the fans normally run all the time on these LED's to dissipate the heat generated regardless of the ambient air temps. They don't have any on/off logic or thermo sensor. Power to bulb = fan on.

I've had my F2's down to -12C/10F without issue. Never had them not work for me in any of the extremes we get here.

Photos of my boots from tonight. I have the headlight out repairing the windscreen motor. Didn't need to cut mine.





Here's the size comparison so you can see I don't have much sticking out.

 

[jodog]

Okay, I'll ask: "Jo, how do you know that don't I want to run without the rubber boots?"

I didn't put mine on because they appeared to block the airflow through the slots in the heat sinks.

Plus, I avoid riding in the rain when possible. I'll continue if I have to, but never start out in the rain.

I'm so pleased you asked. When I ran without the boots I didn't really have a problem with water (that I noticed) but I did notice the development of small impact marks on the headlight lens. Of course I thought it was bug guts but it was not. Lots of fine gravel bits and sand-like stuff had gotten in there and bounced around like a pinball machine pitting up the inside of the headlight. No bueno.

BTW, glad to see you are up and sassy as ever Larry.

 

[kdmoore]

Following up on my question, hoping it may help future newbs .... I took care to get my battery in tip top condition and rechecked everything ... and just finished a test ride at night thru my neighborhood. Works great and holy cow, the upgrade to LED bulbs makes a world of difference!

The headlight connectors are the same three-prong type as most sealed-beam headlights; no latch or lock.

KD, where in Henrico are you? I'm in Raintree, off Ridgefield Pkwy. I'd be happy to help you with the lights.

I believe what is in the little box is a diode, so the low-beams stay on when you switch on the high-beams.

Plus, the fans, which cool the LEDS, run when the lights receive power; they are not thermostat controlled.

Thanks Larry, I've sent you an IM on this board!

 

[jodog]

I agree completely with everyone here about the virtues of putting LED bulbs in your housing. It's much better than the weak-ass stock bulbs. But if you want to throw lumens down range you need aux lighting. Check out the offerings from Ruby and Clearwater. You can blind a deer at greater than a mile, and yourself if there's a reflective highway sign. I have two sets of forward facing aux lights and when they are going you can't even tell the bike lites are on. And before Larry points out that all those lights hanging off your bike will hurt your MPG, I can confirm that all those lights hanging off hurt your MPG.

 

[Sadlsor]

And before Larry points out that all those lights hanging off your bike will hurt your MPG, I can confirm that all those lights hanging off hurt your MPG.

I bet crashing late at night because you couldn't see that truck tire or ladder or curve in the road, hurts your MPG also.