1st clutch & brake bleed advise needed

Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,537
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
As far as ABS non ABS, the bleeding routine is the same.

Not on the 1100, the non-ABS doesn't have liked brakes. Anyway, I'll re-read the book before attempting this again. Since the SMC doesn't have it's own reservoir, it has to get it's fluid from the rear reservoir. Suspect fluid passes thru a line up to their, not sure exactly how it works tho without the front wheel rotating.
 

randy the x man

R.I.P. - 2013/06/23
Rest In Peace
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
77
Location
Lynnwood, Wa.
If I were to bleed the front and rear breaks I do not think I am going to worry so much about what ever leftover fluid may be in the sharing system??
 

Igofar

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,123
Location
Arizona
Bike
2023 Honda CT125A
If I were to bleed the front and rear breaks I do not think I am going to worry so much about what ever leftover fluid may be in the sharing system??
Use the search tab to research brake bleeding on the st1300. Your statement could be confusing to some other members. The brake system on these bikes, whether ABS or Non ABS, is a linked system.
You must follow a certain procedure to bleed the brakes. You can't just bleed the front, and then the rear. You must remove the left caliper and tilt it, during the bleed, and also bleed the PCV valve that
is located on the right side of the bike, under the plastic, just below the fuel tank. If you follow the correct procedure and bleed everything in the proper order, than no, I wouldn't worry about any fluid being missed
or leftover, as the procedure bleeds the entire system completely.
Hope this helps answer your question.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
34
Location
Central Interior B.C Canada
Bike
2007 DL1000
STOC #
8552
Great thread.
Well I did all the fluids on mt ST today, that block drain was a pain. Clutch was easy.
Any way what do you guys do to stop air from getting sucked past the bleeder threads.
I spent a lot of time bleeding today have brakes but think there may be some air still.
I am using the service manual and a mity vac.
Bob
 

Igofar

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,123
Location
Arizona
Bike
2023 Honda CT125A
Great thread.
Well I did all the fluids on mt ST today, that block drain was a pain. Clutch was easy.
Any way what do you guys do to stop air from getting sucked past the bleeder threads.
I spent a lot of time bleeding today have brakes but think there may be some air still.
I am using the service manual and a mity vac.
Bob
Don't use the Mity Vac :D
I've never had to use tape when bleeding the brakes.
I believe the pressure from the vac is causing more problems than not.
This is why I threw mine away years ago.
I would suggest starting over (just to remove air) and check each bleeder the old fashion manual way, by cracking it open, holding, closing bleeder before you release the lever etc.
Or you can buy a motion pro bleeder tool and do your entire brake system in about 20 minutes!
One thing you can also try before starting all over....take a large rubber band, or piece of bicycle inner tube and wrap it around the brake lever, and put a weight on the foot lever, and let it
sit over night. This sometimes will allow the micro bubbles caused by the force of the vac to vent out over night. Your lever should feel solid the next morning, providing you didn't get alot
of air in the system using the pressure vac.
hope this helps.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,682
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
008131
STOC #
6651
I always use a MityVac on my ST1300 brakes and it works great. I did tape the bleeders to stop pulling air past them the first bleed but did not ever have to do this again. That was 6 years ago. RCS brings up a good point. I have had to replace the last piece of vinyl hose from the collection bottle to the bleeder several times as it gets hard over time . I do not use the Mityvac adapters but rather just slip the vinyl hose right over the bleeder. No air leaks.

If you are not used to bleeding brakes, the first time with the ST you may hit a few bumps no matter what tools or methods you use. The ST has some long circuits that pass thru a delay or proportioning valve while others are short and direct. The LF caliper absolutely needs to be removed and tilted. If not removed and bled it is practically impossible to get a firm foot pedal.
 

RCS

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
1,401
Location
Stamford, CT
Great thread.
Well I did all the fluids on mt ST today, that block drain was a pain. Clutch was easy.
Any way what do you guys do to stop air from getting sucked past the bleeder threads.
I spent a lot of time bleeding today have brakes but think there may be some air still.
I am using the service manual and a mity vac.
Bob
Sometimes the plastic hose isn't fitted tightly enough against the bleeder valve which allows air to enter between the bleeder valve and the hose. When this happens, I try a new section of hose that fits tighter to the bleeder valve.
 
Top Bottom