40 amp upgrade wiring

[DeanR]

The starter relay harness should have a built in lead to the bottom fuse terminal should it not? This one does not (see pic) so I don't know how to do that fuse connection?

Is this where the red wire bypass can also come into play?

The wiring changes have been one thing holding me back from getting this upgrade done.
also
Anybody happen to have a take-off VRR sitting on a shelf?

 

[sirepair]

Dean, check out these pics to see the install. Also, read the writeup on ST-riders.net and Mike Martin's site 2 or 3 times and you should have the gist of it all.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

The starter relay harness should have a built in lead to the bottom fuse terminal should it not?

Yes, this looks like a wiring harness from a 40amper, which should have the fuse block to starter relay wire (see Joe Urban's picture attached below). You can make your own to duplicate that wire, or as most upgraders do, having just the 28amper's OEM wiring, make one and connect it from the 40amper fuse block directly to the battery pos+ post instead, which is easier to do and does the same thing. Check the size of ring connectors that are required for your mod and use 10awg wire.

Is this where the red wire bypass can also come into play?

No, that's a separate mod.

John

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

PS As I've posted before, if you're buying a salvage 40amp alternator, get the entire alternator shaft assembly and the wiring harness also if you can. It would be silly for anyone to disassemble the alt shaft assy to get the three parts (base, shaft, bearing) needed for the upgrade... nobody will ever buy the other parts (can get them off the old 28amper's alt shaft assy, as is done during a new parts upgrade). Might as well save the labor and just give it to you for the combined salvage cost of the three parts. And don't forget to buy a new large O-ring (91304-MAJ-G41) for the alt-to-base seal if using a salvage alternator.

40amp alternator upgrade info, including videos: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=942
The loaner STOC alt upgrade tool kit with extensive documentation (register if not already): http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=545.0

 

[DeanR]

Thanks guys. Just what I needed. Great pic Pat. I missed that one when I was pouring over all 'The List' info.

Here's a few other pictures:
- the alternator and wiring I pulled from the donor (with a new OEM fuse)
- and the connectors and VRR we talked about John (see the little apparantly melted hole in the corner?) They have all looked perfect (regularly cleaned and greased) until on a trip last week.

If I can find a take-off VRR, I'll use that until proceeding with the upgrade. I know, I know, just do it!

 

[DeanR]

John, I can view The Archives but st-riders will not let me log on to check out the tool kit and such. 'That username does not exist.' despite having registered some time ago.
Advice?

 

[Mark]

Dean,

I would PM Don-STOC237 and ask for help with your st-riders login issue.

Mark

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

John, I can view The Archives but st-riders will not let me log on to check out the tool kit and such. 'That username does not exist.' despite having registered some time ago.
Advice?

I don't see you in the membership listings under any Dean*, ro* or rd* entries. If you didn't post, or only a few some time ago, you may have been scrubbed from the rolls. My advice: go ahead and register again.

John

 

[DeanR]

Bike has been running ok around town. Red connector is history with yellow wires connected directly. White connector cleaned up. Pics of what they looked like are in post #5.

Today I unplugged the red connector at the starter relay/30 amp fuse, and found this. Perhaps the original source of the problem? Anyway, what should I do with this plug? (might anybody have one by the way?) I see the red wire bypass only in reference to the 96 and later fuse, not with this early VRR in place. Assuming I should do some version of the bypass?
40 amper should be going in before spring but need to run it as is for a while.

All properly registered at st-riders by the way.

 

[Brant]

Bike has been running ok around town. Red connector is history with yellow wires connected directly. White connector cleaned up. Pics of what they looked like are in post #5.

Today I unplugged the red connector at the starter relay/30 amp fuse, and found this. Perhaps the original source of the problem? Anyway, what should I do with this plug? (might anybody have one by the way?) I see the red wire bypass only in reference to the 96 and later fuse, not with this early VRR in place. Assuming I should do some version of the bypass?
40 amper should be going in before spring but need to run it as is for a while.

All properly registered at st-riders by the way.

Sounds like a little pre-maintenace before a possible roll out west come summer Dean?

 

[DeanR]

Sounds like a little pre-maintenace before a possible roll out west come summer Dean?

I'm real good about that Brant. Always cleaning/dielectric'ing connections. They pretty much looked new a few months ago. Despite that, SOMETHING happened to em this summer!
Do you know the temp fix for this plug?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Dean. Do the red wire bypass and use individual spade connectors for the others. Be sure to cut back the leads far enough to get good clean wire strands. Looking at your 4P connector there may be corrosion up into/under the wires' sheath.

John

 

[DeanR]

Will do John. 30 amp inline fuse added and then directly to the battery, correct?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Will do John. 30 amp inline fuse added and then directly to the battery, correct?

Yes. Let use know what the leads look like when you get them out of the melted connector.

 

[DeanR]

Yes. Let use know what the leads look like when you get them out of the melted connector.

Not sure how to actually get em out, rather than just snipping them off like I wound up doing with the red connector.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Not sure how to actually get em out.

Dremel with cut-off wheel. BTDT However, there are special tools for removing lead ends from connectors, but a small screwdriver inserted into the connector can bend the little locking tab out of the way and release the spade connector as in this case you're not concerned with damaging it.

 

[ST1100Y]

Not sure how to actually get em out, rather than just snipping them off like I wound up doing with the red connector.

You'd need to cut off any wiring that appears 'annealed' or corroded anyway; cut off any end that feels 'stiff' or shows discolored strands before putting a new crimp on.

 

[sterjll]

I've had my 28 amp 91 for 14 months and have had the burnt connectors, done the bypass mods, but when repairing would use crimp connections. The last go round I found that the crimps were overheating. So I eliminated all crimps, connectors and wires where I could. I used wire rated at 30 amps (forget the gauge at the moment) and soldered everything that had to do with charging except to the VRR. There are no funds yet for a 40 amp upgrade, so trying all I can to avoid it.
Here's hoping.

 

[DeanR]

Yes. Let use know what the leads look like when you get them out of the melted connector.

Crimp and wire look like new. Spade is discolored.

Best way to proceed? Should I do the bypass? Can I keep the other three wires as is?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

IMHO, do the bypass, Dean. I'd put new spade connectors on the others, especially if they look anything like the one in the picture. I don't think I could ever get them clean enough for my satisfaction (acid dip?). Plus, installing connectors on clean wire strands with quality shrink wrap is a simple operation for me. I'm wondering about the condition of the male spades in your starter-relay/main/fuse unit. Clean them up well (fine emery board fingernail file or sumsuch). FWIW

John