Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Because there is too many 'we's and none of us agree on exactly what 'we' want.
A different approach to voltmeters
- Thread starter beemerphile
- Start date
OP
OP
Especially me. I am a statistical outlier.Because there is too many 'we's and none of us agree on exactly what 'we' want.
OP
OP
Regarding the sending unit issue, it seems some of the 1741 temperature meters ship with a 175F rated sensor (part number 1820) and others inexplicably ship with the 300F rated sensor (part number 1821). I wrote to Blue Sea and they are sending me the higher rated sender at no cost. With that development, I now plan to connect both sensors through a switch. One will read coolant temperature and the other will read ambient air temperature. It was an excellent customer service reaction by Blue Sea.
Shawn K
Professional Cat Confuser
Right there with you. I seem to find myself in that spot all the time.
The Cheese
It is indeed about a volt off. Drives me crazy. Brand freaking new an still reads low! Not only was it more expensive but it was hard to find too. My last one died when the bike fell over. That old one was dead on and lasted about 5 years and two different bikes. Stuff for our bikes are getting harder to find each year.
I'd agree with you if this was about a 1/100 res display. You could get used to the last digit's constant fluctuation... Maybe. Eventually... Down on the body of the fairing is where I don't want it. That's an ok place for a light alert but for a gauge that has to be read my preference is closer to my line of site.CYYJ said:
It's not something that I'd check regularly as a routine so line of sight positioning seems counter intuitive. But if some symptom made me want to check it I'd be happier with it closer to the other gauges. Problem is the 13 doesn't have a lot of room in the dash area for a Datel as is.
Well, all I can say is that when your 'get into something' you really do it.
That said, excellent write up and great results.
Well done Lee.
That said, excellent write up and great results.
Well done Lee.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Hey Lee... I know asking to be adopted by you was maybe a bit too much... but are any of your nearby neighbors’ places for sale..?
John
John
OP
OP
Aw heck John. You have it all over me on this stuff.Hey Lee... I know asking to be adopted by you was maybe a bit too much... but are any of your nearby neighbors’ places for sale..?
John
All of you guys are welcome to come hang out and work on bikes. @The Cheese comes by every now and then. Leaves shaking his head, I guess.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Thanks for the offer. Someday....
You’re way ahead of me on electrical. I’m only familiar with the “keep the smoke inside the wires” scientific method.
BTW, I have 3 ST1100 salvage clocks that were donated to me (Don Cortez) if anyone needs one. Price of postage only. The only light of any kind that has ever failed on my 29 1/2 year old SSMST was a clock light 10 years/90K ago. YMMV
John
Hi - does your volt meter read 1.43 volts? should it be 14.3 V?
Maybe one or two of something like this will work:
https://www.dhgate.com/product/48-smd-5050-led-box-door-dome-light-panel/166016143.html
The Cheese
I don't want to speak for Michael, but the post does say the voltmerer failed. It should be closer to 14.3 normally.
I'm a bit confused on the green clock. Was it really green? Mines amber. Old bike was too. Thought all were.
Pic below shows more white and washed out than it is in person.
CYYJ
Michael
The meter failed after 18 years of service. In the photo, it reads 1.43 volts.
Michael
The autoexposure nature your device exposes for the room light and not the tail/brake lights so the LEDs' brightness result in blown hightlights and red looks white. A camera with manual controls could be adjusted to give a much more accurate pic. If you took a pic in a dark room the tail/brake lights' color would probably render more accurately, assuming your camera can adjust sufficiently.
OP
OP
OK, I put the other bike's panel back enough to check this and it is amber with a white incandescent bulb. I don't know what's up with this green one as I discarded the original bulb that was in it. Maybe the bulb that was in it was tinted because the PO wanted a green display. I don't know, but my other bike has the green panel behind the display it as well, so whatever is up with this one, my fix wasn't a fix. There is nothing of value in this post and after a week or so for folks to read my mea culpa, I'd suggest that @Mellow nuke the thread so it doesn't remain with the capability to mislead people.
I apologize for the noise in the channel. I had a good opportunity to shut up and I didn't take it.
STripper
Brian
The resolution is 0.01 Volts; the uncertainty is 1% of reading. At 13 Volts, the uncertainty is specified to be +/- 0.13 Volts. There is a difference between resolution and uncertainty.
yes, that is true. However, in my experience with measuring DC volts with an array of meters of varying price points, they'll usually agree to two decimal points on a 12v battery measurement, or at worst differ by 0.01 volts. I won't speak for Lee, but I'm sure that's what he meant with his comment about his panel meter being within 0.01 volts of his Fluke meter, and I'm sure that his Fluke meter has better than 1% DC accuracy.
The Cheese
Geez, don't be so dramatic!
Does this translate to, "Often wrong, but never in doubt"?
