Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
For 'extra' security ...That’s if you lost the machine screw to the clamp?
After years of procrastinating
- Thread starter ST-Traveler
- Start date
$780 delivered 2 years ago. Best money I spent on the ST1300 ... especially after fighting with 2 failed Auidovox units. The McCruise instructions are pleasantly detailed, and following them is easy if you don't rush things. I installed mine without any issues, and it has performed flawlessly. Electronic cruise control is so much more pleasant than the old vacuum-powered units.
kiltman
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2013
- Messages
- 3,282
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Stratford, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- 2002,ST1100ABS
- STOC #
- 8826
Although I installed another brand on my 1100, I benefited from the McCruise instructions, placement of the loom and installing the vehicle speed sensor as per their instructions was easy to follow and made for a neat install.
If I were to do it again I would purchase the MCCruise unit.
If I were to do it again I would purchase the MCCruise unit.
OP
OP
I got another update:
Finished the install today and took the bike cruising and cruising and put the system through its paces. It is really smooth and holds speed on up-hill and down-hill and on the straight away ( as you would expect.)
Very nice- still learning the ins and outs. The only thing I was not able to do was configure the clutch switch. I tried everything suggested in the instructions. There are about 5 pages of trouble shooting flow charts- none of them worked. I know the clutch switch works because if it is in gear the bike won't start unless I pull in the clutch lever, but the mccruise is not recognizing it for some reason.
Other than that---which I wasn't going to use that switch anyways to cancel the cruise,,,,, the system works flawlessly.
You can really eat up the miles effortlessly with this thing.
If you are pondering it - just do it --- you will love it.
I really took my time so it took around 2 days of tinkering and testing (mostly with the clutch switch- trying to get it to work).
Finished the install today and took the bike cruising and cruising and put the system through its paces. It is really smooth and holds speed on up-hill and down-hill and on the straight away ( as you would expect.)
Very nice- still learning the ins and outs. The only thing I was not able to do was configure the clutch switch. I tried everything suggested in the instructions. There are about 5 pages of trouble shooting flow charts- none of them worked. I know the clutch switch works because if it is in gear the bike won't start unless I pull in the clutch lever, but the mccruise is not recognizing it for some reason.
Other than that---which I wasn't going to use that switch anyways to cancel the cruise,,,,, the system works flawlessly.
You can really eat up the miles effortlessly with this thing.
If you are pondering it - just do it --- you will love it.
I really took my time so it took around 2 days of tinkering and testing (mostly with the clutch switch- trying to get it to work).
Yep, it is a good system. I don't have one on the solo as most of our long distance rides to the south or north of Europe are planned to avoid much motorway/autoroute/autobahn. But with the outfit, particularly when towing with a trailer to sidecar rallies, it is a real boon to set to 60mph/100kph (the limit in most countries for trailer towing) and not have to be constantly monitoring and balancing the speed.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
- Messages
- 8,537
- Age
- 77
- Location
- Kingman, Arizona
- Bike
- 2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
- STOC #
- 004
A new Rosta for me in the near future. STick 1 had an early MC Cruz, installed at the second Honda Riders Club event in North Carolina in 94 by Rob ??
OP
OP
OK the problem I was having configuring the clutch switch is solved. I was doing part of the set up incorrectly, so installer error.
OP
OP
Sorry so late- Here are a few pics I took of the MC-cruise control install on my 1300.
1- Cable interface unit (CIU)
2 &3 - Electronic actuator attached to RS fairing area
4- Cable from CIU to throttle body
5. New style switch (left hand side)
1- Cable interface unit (CIU)
2 &3 - Electronic actuator attached to RS fairing area
4- Cable from CIU to throttle body
5. New style switch (left hand side)
Attachments
Last edited:
OP
OP
Here is a video link to my amateur unboxing of the MC cruise control.
ST1300 MC Cruise Control - YouTube
ST1300 MC Cruise Control - YouTube
Last edited:
Bulitt
Flori-Duh-Man
Just seeing this thread. I installed Mcruise on my 2017 VFR12X DCT a couple of weeks ago. What a brilliant product! It works just like a factory installed system in every aspect.
Installation was time consuming (Full day) but the directions were thorough and detailed and their follow up and customer service is exceptional. I asked them to email me the documents so I could read them and study before the kit arrived.
Not cheap, but I highly recommend!
Why Honda didn’t put cruise on this bike is a head scratcher……
Installation was time consuming (Full day) but the directions were thorough and detailed and their follow up and customer service is exceptional. I asked them to email me the documents so I could read them and study before the kit arrived.
Not cheap, but I highly recommend!
Why Honda didn’t put cruise on this bike is a head scratcher……
STRider
Site Supporter
I received my MC Cruise this past Monday and have been pouring over the directions and reconciling the printed instructions with the hardware. Boy am I happy with my decision. What a well designed and built assembly of hardware. Particularly the wiring harness that's totally plug-n-play as many others have pointed out.
The CIU was the piece that really benefitted from having it in hand. I now see how they effectively 'linked' the throttle cable from the bars to the short cable segment that connects to the EFI linkage. After nearly ten years mentoring a FIRST robotics team, I've seen 'good' mechanisms and 'bad' ones. This is a GOOD one. Yes, it's functionally a Y-cable like @Larry Fine speculated, but the manner in which those two cables are interconnected around a two-tiered spool/pulley is just solid.
And how the servo cable engages that pulley is equally ingenious. The servo pulley has a semicircular slot in its side encircling the central pivot which mates with a pin on the bottom of the above mentioned pulley. Not only does this make a 'soft connection' between the servo and the EFI/throttle cables (the servo only engages the system when applying throttle), it also changes the ratio between the two; the servo cable moves a pulley 64mm dia versus 24mm for the other - an 8:3 reduction ratio. The servo cable moves 8mm for every 3mm of the throttle. This means large easy movements of the servo cable produce small subtle movements of the throttle. Love it.
I've already mentally mapped out my work to do the install; hopefully this weekend. The biggest task - as usual for an ST, 1100 or 1300 - is to remove the obstructing tupperware. Possibly the only oversight in this kit that I'll address is the servo is secured to the fairing framework with two large hose clamps. That's okay, but they ride directly on the paint of the frame. I plan to use a section of old bicycle innertube to protect the paint. Otherwise, it looks pretty skookum.
The CIU was the piece that really benefitted from having it in hand. I now see how they effectively 'linked' the throttle cable from the bars to the short cable segment that connects to the EFI linkage. After nearly ten years mentoring a FIRST robotics team, I've seen 'good' mechanisms and 'bad' ones. This is a GOOD one. Yes, it's functionally a Y-cable like @Larry Fine speculated, but the manner in which those two cables are interconnected around a two-tiered spool/pulley is just solid.
And how the servo cable engages that pulley is equally ingenious. The servo pulley has a semicircular slot in its side encircling the central pivot which mates with a pin on the bottom of the above mentioned pulley. Not only does this make a 'soft connection' between the servo and the EFI/throttle cables (the servo only engages the system when applying throttle), it also changes the ratio between the two; the servo cable moves a pulley 64mm dia versus 24mm for the other - an 8:3 reduction ratio. The servo cable moves 8mm for every 3mm of the throttle. This means large easy movements of the servo cable produce small subtle movements of the throttle. Love it.
I've already mentally mapped out my work to do the install; hopefully this weekend. The biggest task - as usual for an ST, 1100 or 1300 - is to remove the obstructing tupperware. Possibly the only oversight in this kit that I'll address is the servo is secured to the fairing framework with two large hose clamps. That's okay, but they ride directly on the paint of the frame. I plan to use a section of old bicycle innertube to protect the paint. Otherwise, it looks pretty skookum.
kiltman
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2013
- Messages
- 3,282
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Stratford, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- 2002,ST1100ABS
- STOC #
- 8826
A good decision it is! Much success on the instalation. You will be happy with the results I'm sure.
STRider
Site Supporter
Well, it's done. Installed last night. Everything went into place nicely. Again, big kudos to MC Cruise in making a fine product - a completely plug and play installation. Took me about five hours.
There's an initial power up in diagnostic mode which is used to set the free play of the servo cable and confirm the operation of the brake interlocks. It passed all of that with flying colors, however after buttoning up the system I was unable to engage the system during its shakedown ride. I can power it up - the indicator light turns red - but pressing the SET/ACC or RES/DEC does nothing; no color change to the light (should go yellow) or response from the system.
Time to go into the detailed troubleshooting guide. Still pleased and optimistic that it will work fine.
There's an initial power up in diagnostic mode which is used to set the free play of the servo cable and confirm the operation of the brake interlocks. It passed all of that with flying colors, however after buttoning up the system I was unable to engage the system during its shakedown ride. I can power it up - the indicator light turns red - but pressing the SET/ACC or RES/DEC does nothing; no color change to the light (should go yellow) or response from the system.
Time to go into the detailed troubleshooting guide. Still pleased and optimistic that it will work fine.
kiltman
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2013
- Messages
- 3,282
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Stratford, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- 2002,ST1100ABS
- STOC #
- 8826
There isn’t a chance you have an LED light in the brake system, is there? If there is, a relay is needed. ( it’s one of those things that can be overlooked and not allow the unit to engage)
STRider
Site Supporter
Engagement issue resolved. Used the Troubleshooting Guide to determine what prevented was "Clutch/neutral/sidestand switch/wiring fault". Swapped the factory loom wires on the clutch switch and it works perfectly.
As I'm not at all familiar with the CC (or any CC) could you add a little detail to how and what was swapped?Swapped the factory loom wires on the clutch switch and it works perfectly.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
On the ST1100, the Clutch 'switch' has 2 wires.
On the MCCruise, you pigtail into one of them.
If you pick the wrong wire to pigtail to, it won't work.
It is a safety feature that turns off the MCCruise if you pull in the clutch before you hit the brakes.
IIRC, the MCCruise also has a wire to pigtail to the coils to detect high RPMs so it turns off the MCCruise.
On the MCCruise, you pigtail into one of them.
If you pick the wrong wire to pigtail to, it won't work.
It is a safety feature that turns off the MCCruise if you pull in the clutch before you hit the brakes.
IIRC, the MCCruise also has a wire to pigtail to the coils to detect high RPMs so it turns off the MCCruise.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 4,284
- Age
- 66
- Location
- Birmingham, Alabama
- Bike
- 2008 ST1300A
- STOC #
- 9065
Y'all have made me go back and review the Rostra CC thread.
Hey, I've told y'all before!
I'm a cheap S.O.B.
(Roughly $300 USD, including a Honda switch pod. But I guess I'll pay the difference in the additional time to install and "calibrate.")
Hey, I've told y'all before!
I'm a cheap S.O.B.
(Roughly $300 USD, including a Honda switch pod. But I guess I'll pay the difference in the additional time to install and "calibrate.")
You ride an ST1300 ... and such quality is not being cheap. So why cheap out on the CC?
I tried the cheap CC route ... twice ... and learned it was a big waste of time and $$$.