Another kind of ST (Super Touring)

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rjs987

rjs987

Robert
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001059
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8058
The maps download to the phone app actually... And then they can upload to the bike via BT. Map downloading just wasn't completed at one end or the other. The bike will upload on the fly from the phone as long as the phone is close to the bike, but sometimes the phone is not where cell communication is good for downloading files. And of course, WiFi is basically non-existent while riding down the road.
When you have the bike turned on you can select to upload any changes or firmware updates from the phone using the Noodoe phone app.

While navigating on the Noodoe screen on the bike I would rarely see an alert that I think indicates loss of satellite for just a moment. It would flash on screen and then go away for a very long time. Something I've seen with most GPS devices while moving through certain areas. Navigation did not seem to stop or be affected during those instant moments.

Oh, the dealer also gave me a new tire pressure gauge to cross check with the TPMS. When I arrived at the dealer the front tire psi was good at around 38 psi, but the rear tire was showing just over 46 psi. So I let some air out until the TPMS showed about right and cross checked with my NEW tire gauge to verify that it was. This morning it was really nice to check tire pressure by simply tabbing through the displayed psi. I found I was leaving that display to show either voltage or average mpg.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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8058
Rode the AK out to the county DOT office to get it registered and titled. Wasn't sure if the State would charge me tax based on the actual purchase price or deduct the trade-in allowance and tax that amount. Different states work it differently. Turns out that Iowa deducts the trade allowance first and then calculates tax on the balance. For some really strange reason, or perhaps governmental convoluted calculating, they set the purchase price somewhat less than the actual purchase price even though it was plainly stated on the purchase agreement. So the State thinks I was charged the purchase price of $10199 less the trade value of $4200 and charged me tax based on $5999. Yet I wrote the check for the balance for $6000. Oh well, I was fine with paying tax on a slightly lower amount.

OK, now I divulged all my secret details of my purchase. But not all. I did get the Kymco promotional discount of $250 off any Kymco product 250 cc or bigger. That promotion goes to the Dec 31, 2021.

This trip was a 29 miles round trip. I did discover that if I set the navigation start point to a building or someplace not actually ON the road then the Noodoe nav system will continually attempt to route me directly to that point... off road! So I recalculated the route to start at my currently location and all worked out really well.

At the county vehicle registration office.
PXL_20211108_200422250.jpg

In Iowa when buying a new vehicle within 30 days of selling a previous one I can simply transfer the existing plate over to the new vehicle. That is what I did... for now. I am considering possibly getting a personalized license plate for my AK. Maybe when it's time to renew registration.

The colors of the default plate don't do justice to the lovely Matte Deep Blue of my AK 550. But I think a blacked out plate with white lettering will work better.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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001059
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Time to break out the Krylon and blue tape! :cool: :D Yeah the black plate is the way to go.
Too bad the State of Iowa won't let me paint the plate I have. Maybe I can find some Krylon color that very closely matches the bike. :cool:

Waiting until my month for renewals (May) so I only pay the one time $60 just to get the plate. After that it's $15 per year. If I bought it now I'd be paying the full $60 now and then $15 again in May.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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After 648 miles riding the AK I think I can give a little bit of an assessment of this scooter. I say "I think" because 85% of those miles is highway so not a lot of slower roads traveled yet.

Starting from the top:
The shield is plenty for my needs and comfort. There is more protection than it would seem just looking at it. Most of the miles so far have been with the shield in the lower position. In this position I do get a stream of wind over the shield and maybe a little around it. But I want that during the warm and hot months when I would have the shield in the low position. I wear a full face helmet (not a modular) and like having the air stream flowing to the vents at the top of my helmet. The wind hits just above the visor on me so that's perfect. I only just recently moved the shield to the upper position and have gone maybe 100 miles of riding with it that way. There was plenty of protection with the air stream going over my helmet. This upper position is 1.5 inches higher and not angled back as much as the lower position so that bumps the air just over my helmet. Maybe, just maybe, I feel a little air on the very top but that's to be expected since I am, after all, on a motor-scooter (If you really want NO wind on you when you ride then stay inside your fully enclosed cage and keep the windows closed).

The seat is comfortable. I was a little concerned about that since I've not sat on a really comfortable stock seat until my CTX1300. My Burgman had a Corbin seat which was very comfortable, much more so than the CTX. Even more so than the Gold Wing I had years ago. I was wondering how many miles before I started to feel like I needed to get off the bike to rest but I just kept going and never got to that point. Either I changed or the stock seats are getting better or this Kymco AK 550 seat in particular is really that good. At least to me it is. I was comfortable the entire 200+ miles of the first day riding back from the dealer as well as 200+ miles on the next day. 406 miles total for both days.

I mentioned some time ago after I first had a chance to sit on one of these how the ergonomics worked out for leg/foot room. I still hold to that. My reach to the grips on the AK has almost just the same feel as my reach was on the Burgman 650. Not different enough to really tell any difference, although I'm sure in a side view picture a slight difference can be seen it is so slight so as to be hard to tell.

On my Burgman I found the only really comfortable place for my feet was right at the bend from the level foot board to the slanted foot board. My knees and hips were bent too much to be comfortable for long with my feet fully on the level foot board and the slanted foot board was just a little far away for me. I could keep my feet on the slanted board but my knees were too straight so a bit of a strain. The best position on my Burgman for my feet was with the ball of my foot on the slanted board and my heal on the level board. On the AK I find it comfortable to keep my feet on the level foot board for a long time since the seat is higher and the more I ride it the more I am convinced the extra height is between the seat and level foot board. The level boards are about the same as the foot pegs on my Gold Wing or CTX1300. I can also more comfortably put my feet fully on the slanted foot board as well. My feet are also comfortable at that place right at the notch in between slanted and level foot boards with the ball of my foot on the slant and my heal on the level out of habit so any place is comfortable and good for me. But with the AK I find I just leave my feet on the level foot board more and more. Since there is more distance from the seat to the level boards my hips and knees are not bent as much so are much more comfortable. I used to be young enough when all this didn't matter so much but those years are way past. I do definitely find the foot boards on the AK are longer, but not wider, than on the Burgman 650. So I can slide my feet forward or back a little on the level foot boards, or up or down a little on the slanted foot boards, before running out of foot board. The AK foot boards have a notch between the level and slanted boards that allow my toe to slide even more forward when on the level foot board.

The seat height is more than on MY Burgman 650 and also more than the stock Burgman 650. Burgman seat height = 29.9 inches. AK 550 seat height = 30.9 inches. For my comparison my ST1100 seat height = 31.5 inches. I could flat foot both feet easily on my Burgman. I can also do that on the AK but not as easily. If I slide up a little on the seat I can flat foot both sides but if I stay back in the seat I can only flat foot one side at a time. But the other foot is solidly on the ground if not down on my heal. I am 5 ft 9 in. with a 32 inch inseam. I never feel any instability on the AK while coming to or holding at a stop. The foot boards seem to be the same height off the ground as on my Burgman so most, if not all, of that height difference is between the seat and the foot boards.

The ride so far is very nice. The engine does rev higher while doing the same thing as the Burgman. The red line is the same on both machines. The low end power feels better on the AK and acceleration also feels better. It just doesn't feel like there is any of the typical lag between twisting the throttle and feeling the power at the rear wheel. It's almost instant. Holding speed on the Interstate highways at 65 mph is the same even with the engine revving higher on the AK. It does not feel like it's revving too high at any speed once I become accustomed to hearing/feeling/seeing that it is at a higher rpm. Just another something to become used to as with any new bike. Sort of like keeping the Power Mode turned on all the time with the Burgman. So far the mpg is as good as with the Burgman. I wasn't expecting that with this being a NEW bike. Usually mpg starts out a little lower than expected with a new bike and improves as the miles add on. If it goes as is expected then I will be very pleased with the mpg. I actually already am pleased since so far I've been getting around 55 mpg with one tank that I refilled before it was half gone that was below 50 mpg. But that low mpg was expected also since the temps during that part of the ride were below 50 F and in my experience the mpg starts to really drop about there.

The suspension is as good as I've been reading and hearing about in reviews. Going down mildly bouncy roads, where the pavement is not bumpy but just not so flat, the bike behaves as any other bike does and follows the "wave" of the pavement. But on bumps and uneven cracks in pavement the AK front end makes those softer than the Burgman did. There is no shock or jolt at the front end when hitting those. And the rear soaks up the bumps and uneven cracks as well. I rode on an uneven brick paved road tonight and the ride was very smooth compared with any other bike I've taken down that same road. The rear shocks are not adjustable on the standard AK 550. There was a special edition that came out overseas a few years ago that did have adjustable shocks but that has not been the norm for the entire run since the end of 2017 when this bike was first announced. Overall I think the suspension is really good.

Almost forgot to mention about the heated grips. I did have a chance to try those out on that one leg of the trip home where the temps dropped well below 50 F. I never went above the lowest setting and my hands were hot! I was using the heated grips again tonight with temps just above freezing. I'm certain I'll be needing handlebar muffs or my heated gloves for temps down to zero F and below even with the heated grips. I'm planning to try the muffs thinking that those might be enough for the heated grips to keep my hands warm.

The built-in features are neat. It is very nice to do a quick check of tire psi using the integrated TPMS and also flip past the voltage display. I usually leave it on either the voltage monitor or average mpg display while riding. Someday I'll rig up something temporary to mount my phone to do a cross check compare of the speedometer with the phone GPS.

The keyless system is way different to use than having an actual key but I'm getting used to it. The keyless control is really not as complicated as it looks and doesn't really have as much complexity as it seems at first glance. It basically does the same functions as a standard keyed ignition switch but just without inserting a key. It turns on the bike, opens the seat storage, opens the gas cap cover, locks the handlebars. And that's really it. It is nice not having to find my key to put into the ignition switch, but I do need to make sure I know where that fob is located and that it is secure in a zippered pocket in my gear.

The Noodoe system is cool. It could be much better but still nice to have some of the features enabled on the bike. I've already experienced how the notifications work for missed text messages and missed phone calls. Those only show up when sitting at a stop light for a little while and then go away when I start moving. I've been playing with the navigation that is built into the app. There are many quirks to it. Still a work in progress. I have found that if I set a way point just OFF the road I actually ride on the nav tends to want me to keep circling around that point until I hit right on it. That's usually only when I set a way point on a business or landmark that I cannot actually ride exactly to. The only way around it when that happens is to stop and reset the route to start at "my current location" and then it will move on. The nav does recalculate as expected and gets me to where I programmed it to go. It even has voice prompts for turn by turn. I'm still getting used to where some of the settings are in the program. One of the issues that has been reported is that because the Noodoe system, and also the keyless system, is always on in the background then the battery tends to drain more rapidly than any other bike. I have found that this doesn't happen quite as much if I make sure to turn off BT on my phone and also put my keyless fob in a Faraday pouch so the bike isn't continually trying to recognize those when they are near enough to be detected by those systems. I also keep the battery plugged into my Battery Tender. The battery at rest (and not plugged into the Battery Tender seems to show 12.7 vdc. But after a day it drops to 12.6 vdc or lower unless I keep it plugged into the Battery Tender. I have my other maintainer alternately on my wife's scooter and the JD lawn tractor. There is a setting in the app to enable the bike to remember the BT connection for a set number of days. This plays into the battery drain. The trade off is if I set this to a short time I have to re-pair the bike to the phone if that time is past or if I set this to a longer number of days the battery goes down just a little more. But keeping it connected to the Battery Tender solves that issue.

The keyless fob range for this bike is a lot farther than it should be. I tested that when I first sat on one a few months ago and found the range to be around 45-50 ft clear line of sight. That makes the bike able to be started and ridden off while I'm in my tent at camping events since my tent is usually closer than that... unless I park at one end of the line of bikes far away from my tent. A better idea is the put the fob in a Faraday pouch and the bike cannot sense the fob at all even while laying that pouch on the dash.

I'm having fun on this new scooter and will continue to report on what I learn about it. My first oil/filter change interval is now past. It was done at 608 miles and was as easy as it is on the ST1100 or Burgman or CTX. Only one panel is in the way that makes replacing the oil filter a little bit of a chore but I'll be getting a filter wrench that works better than the one I have to make that easy as well.
 

Andrew Shadow

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One of the issues that has been reported is that because the Noodoe system, and also the keyless system, is always on in the background then the battery tends to drain more rapidly than any other bike. I have found that this doesn't happen quite as much if I make sure to turn off BT on my phone and also put my keyless fob in a Faraday pouch so the bike isn't continually trying to recognize those when they are near enough to be detected by those systems.
I can see why the keyless system needs to always be scanning for the fob, that only makes sense. Why would the Noodoe system need to do so? I had never heard of Noodoe before you started this thread, is there a reason for it to connect to anything before the ignition switch is turned to ON or ACC?
The keyless fob range for this bike is a lot farther than it should be. I tested that when I first sat on one a few months ago and found the range to be around 45-50 ft clear line of sight.
I would think that that much range would make any vehicle much easier to steal. I think that I would find that concerning, even when it is parked in my own driveway. I would prefer a very short range that would require the fob to be next to the vehicle before it would work.

I find your views on scooters interesting because I have been contimplating getting a small 50CC scooter for running around locally.
It sounds like you are enjoying your new ride. Nothing like that new car smell on a motorcycle.
Enjoy it, and report back what you think in another couple of thousand miles.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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001059
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8058
@Andrew Shadow
Noodoe connects to a cell phone via BT and has a feature that uses that phone connection called a Welcome Screen. That is active all the time and keyed off proximity to the cell phone via BT. Welcome Screen lights up the Noodoe center panel on the dash any time that connected cell phone is near to assist in locating and identifying the scooter that belongs to the cell phone owner. Not that there are so many AK 550 scooters around to be confused about that. ;) But maybe in some countries that might be handy. I turned off the Welcome Screen feature on mine since I don't need it of course. I also turn off BT and location on my phone to prevent the AK from continually trying to sense my phone. But then, that is also something I always have done anyway after a ride since the only reason I used BT is for connecting to my Sena, and now also the AK. And I prefer both location and BT to be turned off on my phone to lengthen battery life on the phone.

Noodoe also has a feature that locates the scooter, such as when it is parked in a very large parking lot using GPS and BT together. Another excess feature I don't see needing very often. With that the phone Noodoe app brings up a radar like screen that shows direction and distance (in meters) to the bike. The radar screen can be the typical round radar like display on the phone or a circle with a sliding segment indicating rough direction. Both displays show distance.

And I totally agree with the remote fob range being a security issue so I bought a 2 pack of really nice Faraday pouches from Amazon to handle the remote fob range issues. One pouch for each remote fob (2 come with the bike). So that one is handled.

So there is a lot more tech to use up battery but also ways to minimize that tech being active. I don't see any issues with several days of not riding and still having plenty of battery to start the AK but more than a week might be stretching it too far. Thus the Battery Tender. I don't want to test that theory. Being at a STOC event and camping is really not a worry since I'll likely be riding somewhere every day if not every other day at least.

When the time comes to replace the OEM battery I might be looking for one with more Ah reserve in the same package.

You'll have to make a showing at LOCSTOC or MNSTOC just to come down and see it. :cool:
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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...
I find your views on scooters interesting because I have been contimplating getting a small 50CC scooter for running around locally.
It sounds like you are enjoying your new ride. Nothing like that new car smell on a motorcycle.
Enjoy it, and report back what you think in another couple of thousand miles.
I keep reading and hearing about the Kymco Like 50i and 150i series of scooters as well as the Kymco Agility 50 and 150 series all being very good machines. I get the impression that the Like series is the better but not entirely certain of that. I keep finding out about more and more riders of several different bikes also own a Kymco scooter as a small run about.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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8058
At EICMA this year Kymco unveiled a new version of the AK 550. Now they are actually calling it a Sport Touring Maxi Scooter!
Yet the label on the side of the fairing still says Super Touring just like mine does. ;)

Although it will only be available in Europe and Asia for now. It is labeled as the updated 2022 version but the USA still gets the same 2022 model as I now have, which was basically the same as the 2021 version. This new version adds throttle by wire, CC and TC to the ABS it already has. Some slight redesign of the plastic, electric adjusting shield and reports of an improved CVT and CVT belt for less maintenance. That last bit would be the only thing I'd be interested in but likely the price will be elevated beyond what I would pay for these features. I'll stick with what I have now. Besides, I don't like what they did with the keyless remote buttons vs. control dial I currently have. Based on some other specs I already have a larger gas tank than this new version has and can already make it just over 200 miles per tank on a warm day. About right since it's good to get off once in a while anyway and 180-200 miles works out about right for me to stop for a drink. May as well give the bike a drink also.

 
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rjs987

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Robert
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Been wanting to be more certain of the tank capacity on my AK 550 since earlier this year when there was discussion that the tank might not have the capacity advertised. The AK 550 Euro 4 version and before has always had a 15 L tank (3.9 US gal). Then the AK 550 ST variant came out advertising a smaller tank at 12.5 L (3.3 US gal)! This was to accommodate the added hardware to make it Euro 5 compliant. And at that time there was suspicion that all versions, including the non-ST version sent to the USA, were also with this smaller tank.

Some time ago I drained the tank as much as I could and measured how much I put back in to fill it and came up with 13.75 L (3.63 US gal) but I wasn't able to get all the gas out of the tank that time. I didn't want to risk damage to the fuel pump by just running it dry.

Today I finally used a one-way fuel hand siphon bulb (didn't have this before) to more properly drain the tank. I put the AK on the side stand so a bit more of the gas at the bottom was to the side more than under the fuel pump screen. The tank on the AK is almost a cube shape with a slight depression under the fuel pump. I could feel when the vinyl hose I was using pushed down next to that screen so I am thinking I could get almost all the gas out. This time I put 14.25 L (3.76 US gal) back into the tank. I still think there was likely a little bit of gas in the very bottom under the fuel pump screen and it would be unlikely that I would be able to get that out unless I removed the fuel pump. I'm not wanting to take the bike apart that much just yet. I am satisfied with how much I did today.

During the usual warmer riding season I've been getting around 55 mpg with my AK. Sometimes a few more and sometimes a few less depending if I spend more time on faster harder riding or take it easy on country roads. This season I've had it up to 57+ mpg while traveling and riding on mostly 55 mph roads. That means I can go about 200 miles per tank if I stretch it to the limit. That's comparable to what I was doing on my Burgman 650. When I travel I usually try to plan on seeing more than one gas station every 150 miles anyway. A good time to stop for a short rest and water break.
 
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55 mpg and 200 miles on a tank means shy of four galons, you guys are 3.78 or something compared to our bigger 4.54 gallon, so you're probably burning around 14L that sounds about right, if you're able to syphon out 13 / 15ths I'd say that's pretty good compared to any tank I have. Just wondering if it has any kind of a fuel pump or is it gravity.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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55 mpg and 200 miles on a tank means shy of four galons, you guys are 3.78 or something compared to our bigger 4.54 gallon, so you're probably burning around 14L that sounds about right, if you're able to syphon out 13 / 15ths I'd say that's pretty good compared to any tank I have. Just wondering if it has any kind of a fuel pump or is it gravity.
It has a fuel pump same as the ST (both flavors) have... electric with a bottom siphon through a filter screen.
The advertised specs say 15 L (3.9 gal). The ST1300 has a 29.2 L (7.66 gal) per the specs I've seen. So yeah, I was able to siphon out 14 / 15ths of the tank. I do recall being able to ride a lot farther on my ST1100 but never got the mpg I get on the AK.
 
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I don't think 200 miles is a bad range; I could take that, I think I'm 130 k between the worst stops here in western canada, which I think is about 80 miles; I'm kind of curious though how your cv transmission belted drive / driven is holding out, since you've put it to the test; how many miles you have on it and so on, it sounds like a great scooter so far; might be a great idea for small cars vs nine speed throw em in the scrap heap of life [oil and all] after 90k transmissions they have now; every time I hear one of those coffee grinders shift...
 

Erdoc48

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I read this whole thread in its entirety and it looks like you made a very good decision with the Kymco. I’ve been farkeling my Silverwing recently and it’s a really fun scoot. I still have a special respect for my STs but it is nice just to twist and go from time to time. Best of luck with it…maybe one will be in my future as well.

I actually purchased the SWing for the Mrs to ride, but it’s been too hot recently, and she hasn’t tried it yet. Oh well, I’ll ride it then!
 
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Robert
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@Chris09 , The CVT is great. I haven't opened it up to inspect the belt yet but that is officially on the maintenance schedule for 12,000 miles or 20,000 km with no inspection interval stated. I can inspect at any time but that usually means a new gasket for the CVT cover so I don't worry about it. While a CVT does have a very slight hesitation just at first when starting up from a stop it makes up for it by being almost always at the right torque and HP for any load put on it. That's what enables a scooter like this to launch away from a stop faster than most other bikes or vehicles unless they are really trying hard by revving the rpm way up. I do like that twist and go operation. No longer need to think about being in the right gear since it always is. And I'm liking the belt final drive also. I originally wasn't sure what I'd think about that but now it's been great so far.

My son now has my Nissan Murano SUV with 150K miles on it and the CVT in that is going strong still. No issues the entire life of the vehicle. I now own a Subaru Legacy which has a CVT. I know those setups are somewhat different with really long lasting belts and stronger pulleys and other mechanics but the tech is still there.

Oh, I now have just over 5000 miles on the AK. Next oil change coming up after MNSTOC at around 6000 miles and then scheduled for every 6000 miles after that. OEM tires are holding up well so far. Looks like I'll be getting close to 7000 miles on those. They are Metzeler FeelFree 15 inch tires (front and rear). So far those have been really good for grip in all weather.
 

rwthomas1

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I know two people who have lost the CVT in Nissans with less than 150K on them. They also did NOT do the required service at the required intervals. Nissan CVT has specific maintenance requirements, they are not cheap to replace, and nobody rebuilds them you will be getting new or remanufactured from Nissan. I was able to talk a co-worker into getting her Murano serviced at 90K, the service requirement was 60K, and the dealer only charged $290 which is very reasonable. Don't take this the wrong way, I like CVT's, but they are not regular automatic transmissions and they do not like to skip service requirements.
 
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rjs987

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Robert
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Required service is something to always get done. You can usually fudge a little on the interval time for some things, and get away with it, but not on all things.
 
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I know two people who have lost the CVT in Nissans with less than 150K on them. They also did NOT do the required service at the required intervals. Nissan CVT has specific maintenance requirements, they are not cheap to replace, and nobody rebuilds them you will be getting new or remanufactured from Nissan. I was able to talk a co-worker into getting her Murano serviced at 90K, the service requirement was 60K, and the dealer only charged $290 which is very reasonable. Don't take this the wrong way, I like CVT's, but they are not regular automatic transmissions and they do not like to skip service requirements.
Nissians have had had lots of problems with their CVT transmissions and it's not the fluid see https://knightlawgroup.com/nissan-cvt-transmission-problems/ tell me the year and make and I can get you all the TSB's related to that trans ( there's a lot)
 

Erdoc48

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94/00/04 STs, FSC600
I’ve read that as well- Nissan CVTs are made by Jatco (Japanese automatic transmission company) and are known to be failure points in the affected cars- they probably wouldn’t be so problematic if owners did fluid changes every ~ 30-40K miles or so. Same with Hondas- they had a tendency to have issues (I had a 2006 TL) and I would get the fluid drained and refilled every other oil change (like every 15K miles with 3 quarts of ATF)- never had an issue. With the wife’s Cadillac SRX, they recommend fluid change at 150K miles- I did it at 60K and although I was told the fluid was a little brown, it wasn’t completely shot, so I’ll stay with that interval and the SUV works very well.
 

Andrew Shadow

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Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
5,127
Location
Montreal
Bike
2009 ST1300A9
My brother in-law works in a Nissan dealership's service department. Based on what he sees there, he owns a Hyundai because he refuses to own any Nissan with a CVT.
 
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