Brake advice request

[Art Franz]

So I trailered my 05 1300 to Las Vegas and have been riding around in the 'warmer than AB' country for the last week or so. Today I'm in the Carlsbad CA area and I noticed that the bike didn't respond to the brakes as usual. At the same time, while stopped at a lite, I tried to move the bike back and forth while on board, with my feet, and there was a lot more resistance than usual. At the next lite, I got off the bike and checked the rear rotor temp-smokin' hot; fronts were cool. Then the problem seemed to go away - I checked again a few lites later, and the rotors were all cool.

So I'm thinking uh-oh, SMC problem coming on.

Questions: Is there a way to eliminate/disable/isolate the SMC so that I won't have to worry about it until I get home?
Is there a simple/easy temporary repair that I can perform with very limited tools before I proceed with my trip?
Would someone be willing to lend me experience, tools, shop, expertise, etc to do the required rebuild if necessary? I'd be more than happy to contribute in some way.
What's the best place, etc to buy & find parts?

Mechanically, I consider myself to be somewhat capable; I'd not be at all afraid to tackle this job at home, but that's about 2000 miles away right now.

In retrospect, I thought of doing this before I left, but it was an awful lot easier not to, so I didn't. lol

Thank you, in advance, for your help, I'll keep you posted on what happens.
Art

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

If you haven't recently done ANY brake work, I would first just follow the standard brake fluid change and bleed. This should be do-able any any minimum equiped shop ( even in a parking lot if need be )
( follow the proper order and tilt the caliper when called for ) Problems can arrise if the fluids haven't been done in a while.
It can be done by one person, 2 makes it simple. Parts needed ; the right brake fluid, small open end wrench, allen (?) to release left braket, 2-3 ft piece of tubing for nipples and can/bottle to dump in old fluid

Test for problems and then if all is working you should be able to complete yr trip... at home I'd do a full clean and replace of pads/system

the way they are linked, to my knowledge you can't separate the front/rear systems like you were prob thinking.

 

[Firstpeke]

You would also want to check your rear caliper pad retaining pin and slider are free and the pad(s) are not hanging up and that the caliper is free to slide....

 

[roadriderg]

If you get up to the Huntington beach area we have an dealer with alot of st1300 experience and parts. Or you are welcome to come to my home and we can try to clean or bleed your brakes.

 

[Fortunet 1]

Art~ There is a member located in Vegas that I'm sure can help you out. I will PM his info to you now.

Hang in there.... there is always some one near by from our group, no matter where you are !

Cheers

 

[Art Franz]

Wow, you guys are AWESOME!!! 2 hours and I've got 4 replies!

Update: Went for a 20 mile ride, and tried to stay really attentive to how the bike braked, etc, also checked the rear rotor a few times. The rear rotor was normal all except for once: not sizzling, but real hot for as much as I'd used it, left front was slightly warm, RF was cold.

I put the bike on the centre stand, rotated the rear wheel with my foot, and I have to say, it's tight -- I could turn it with my foot easy enough but it didn't move at all after I stopped pushing. At the same time, you could hear the pads rubbing on the rotor. Am I explaining this properly/does this make sense? Then, I was able to push the SMC by hand, while rotating the rear wheel with my foot, and the SMC did stop the wheel, and then it returned properly to where it was supposed to be; at least to the point to where I was able to rotate the wheel with my foot again.

Tom Mac 04a, I have not had any brake work done, ever, and I've owned the bike for 2 years. I've looked at the fluid several times, and it looks perfectly clear, so I left it alone. The pads are definitely thin, and I was planning to change them out after this trip. According to what you've said about bleeding them in a parking lot, I'm kinda scared to do that, incase I start something I'm not able to finish; if I was at home, I'd do it
Fortunet 1, I called the member in LV, and left him a message to phone me.
roadriderg, I'll take you up on your offer, if it's still available, if nothing turns out in the next 24 hours.
Firstpeke, I'll try your idea tonight at my campsite, I think I've got enough tools to have a go at that.

Thank you so much, everyone, I really needed the encouragement. My 'puter battery's almost dead (at McDonald's), so I'll check here again later this evening, or in the morning, and give you an update. Art

 

[Walrus]

Escondido Cycle Center is just up the road on the 78 in San Marcos (Nordal Exit, go north to light, turn right and take to the end of the street). They are the local honda dealer, and they have tech there that almost has a cult following for the ST's and GW's. He does a lot of the local LEO bikes. If you can't get in there or get them to help, then go to North County Yamaha just down the street (you will pass it on the way to ECC). I have had NCY do a bit of work on the ST. The techs there know their stuff, and the have a good relationship with ECC if they need to ask questions, or refer you to. I don't know about ECC, but NCY will take walk ins. Best if you come early though.

I forgot to add, NCY had the EBC pads in stock when I had mine changed by them when I got new tires.

 

[roadriderg]

Just let me know tomorow if you need some more help. I will pm you my number.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

I have not had any brake work done, ever, and I've owned the bike for 2 years. I've looked at the fluid several times, and it looks perfectly clear, so I left it alone

Sounds like you'll be able to get some help.... good to hear.

As to above, 2 years is about a year to long as it's something easy to do and should be done about once a year. The color may be clear but brake fluid iis hygroscopic ( will absorb water; which can change the way the brakes function ) Many do this during winter lay-up

That being said, the pads are normal if they slightly rub as there is no pressure to retract them fully... if you roatate the rear wheel and push on the SMC, the rear will stop. If the rear goes back to normal when the SMC is released, it's prob ok... BTW, you may get only a turn or two max if you spin the rear wheel hard, this is normal as the brakes do slightly drag ( and drive train )

good luck, Tom

 

[Justytroll]

Just a reminder: If its the SMC that is causung the rear rotor to semi-seize, you
can press on the foot brake pedal after you release the hand grip. That usually pushes the SMC back int a neutral position to loosen the rear rotor back up again. At least that will get you by until you can get it repaired.
Always release the foot pedal last.

 

[coreyasl]

I have gotten into the habit of a 'double tap' on the rear brake pedal after every stop. Easy insurance.

 

[NorCal_Ed]

Just a reminder: If its the SMC that is causung the rear rotor to semi-seize, you
can press on the foot brake pedal after you release the hand grip. That usually pushes the SMC back int a neutral position to loosen the rear rotor back up again. At least that will get you by until you can get it repaired.
Always release the foot pedal last.

Good tip!

 

[MidLife]

Just a reminder: If its the SMC that is causung the rear rotor to semi-seize, you
can press on the foot brake pedal after you release the hand grip. That usually pushes the SMC back int a neutral position to loosen the rear rotor back up again. At least that will get you by until you can get it repaired.
Always release the foot pedal last.

To unstuck the SMC with the pedal, you'd have to stop the bike first. The pedal activates pistons in the front, which will activate the SMC when the bike is in motion.

 

[Igofar]

To unstuck the SMC with the pedal, you'd have to stop the bike first. The pedal activates pistons in the front, which will activate the SMC when the bike is in motion.

Double Taps only work on bad guys :rocket1:
We are talking about a safety issue here.
If you have signs of a SMC starting to fail, no matter how minor, replace it asap.
just sayin'

 

[Firstpeke]

If your front left disc is warmer than your front right disc, I would be concerned that the pads or rather the caliper there is not retracting properly after braking, this is causing very slight brake drag on the left disc and hence operation of the SMC, thus the rear brake is activating....

I would be more inclined to strip all the calipers and clean them, lubing the hanger pins and sliders with appropriate products and ensuring all pistons are retracting cleanly on all calipers, but especially the left front and the rear.

If you hold the front brake and push the bike back a bit, this should, theoretically, release the smc, or at least push it back where it should be at rest. (Remember I said "theoretically")....

 

[Igofar]

If your front left disc is warmer than your front right disc, I would be concerned that the pads or rather the caliper there is not retracting properly after braking, this is causing very slight brake drag on the left disc and hence operation of the SMC, thus the rear brake is activating....

I would be more inclined to strip all the calipers and clean them, lubing the hanger pins and sliders with appropriate products and ensuring all pistons are retracting cleanly on all calipers, but especially the left front and the rear.

If you hold the front brake and push the bike back a bit, this should, theoretically, release the smc, or at least push it back where it should be at rest. (Remember I said "theoretically")....

:tools1: I totally agree with this answer. Strip, clean, assemble, flush, bleed (correctly) then assess the situation. If it still shows signs of failure, then replace. I was not trying to get the cart before the horse.

 

[Art Franz]

Just a reminder: If its the SMC that is causung the rear rotor to semi-seize, you
can press on the foot brake pedal after you release the hand grip. That usually pushes the SMC back int a neutral position to loosen the rear rotor back up again. At least that will get you by until you can get it repaired.
Always release the foot pedal last.

All you folks here on the site have been so helpful. The above quote is a piece of info that I did not know and will be using from now on.

Since I last posted, I have put about 50 miles on the bike and have not been able to duplicate the problem; the temps of the rotors have all varied, but never were they as hot as that one time. So, hopefully, it will be simple.

roadridereg has graciously invited me to his place to see if we can diagnose and correct the problem.

Thank you again, everyone, for all your advice and tips. I'll keep in touch on this post if the problem comes back, and I'll post again when I get home and tear the whole thing down and find the problem.

 

[MidLife]

If your front left disc is warmer than your front right disc, I would be concerned that the pads or rather the caliper there is not retracting properly after braking, this is causing very slight brake drag on the left disc and hence operation of the SMC, thus the rear brake is activating....

I would be more inclined to strip all the calipers and clean them, lubing the hanger pins and sliders with appropriate products and ensuring all pistons are retracting cleanly on all calipers, but especially the left front and the rear.

If you hold the front brake and push the bike back a bit, this should, theoretically, release the smc, or at least push it back where it should be at rest. (Remember I said "theoretically")....

There is one theory here on front left vs right, based on some observing that left often wears more than right, indicating that left may work harder than the right: This could be caused by the Delay Valve on the right side.

 

[Igofar]

All you folks here on the site have been so helpful. The above quote is a piece of info that I did not know and will be using from now on.

Since I last posted, I have put about 50 miles on the bike and have not been able to duplicate the problem; the temps of the rotors have all varied, but never were they as hot as that one time. So, hopefully, it will be simple.

roadridereg has graciously invited me to his place to see if we can diagnose and correct the problem.

Thank you again, everyone, for all your advice and tips. I'll keep in touch on this post if the problem comes back, and I'll post again when I get home and tear the whole thing down and find the problem.

Let's not forget that we have a linked braking system
If you apply the foot brake only, your still using the front brake rotors.
The bike must be stopped first, if you intend to try and use the foot brake to un-stick your SMC.

 

[coreyasl]

That's why it's only a 'tap - tap'

=