I've been through brake hell and back. I've tried all the tricks and things in the manual, as well as cleaned, lubed, replaced, etc etc etc and did many suggestions found in several threads for brake problems.
I will give "Igofar" credit for this one. Early into my escapade he said to stick with OEM pads. I had already bought new pads prescribed by the STealer as acceptable replacements. Those were "Brake Master" pads. They went on well, but after I changed them, the rear drug a little, but the front were worse. I read some posts saying a little drag was acceptable. So, during my attempts to remedy the drag, I continued to ride. Each week or two, or three, I'd try something different or in addition to what I'd previously done. I'd seen many "dragging brake" posts and kept my eyes on new ones.
What I did:
Bought a used set of calipers on ebay with the intent of rebuilding them (really only consists of replacing pistons and seals).
Bought new seals.
Rebuilt my existing calipers (used emory cloth to polish the center pistons, I don't recommend this, they wouldn't slide at all after I polished them). I had to use the center pistons from the ebay set to make my calipers workable; however, the centers still didn't slide acceptable (to me anyway).
Bled the brake system 3 times over 2 months, completely, thoroughly, and correctly.
Cleaned and recleaned the calipers and pistons.
I was about to have a steel braided setup made out of the hoses I got with the ebay set. Before I did that, I bought 2 brand new front calipers and installed them yesterday morning. With that purchase I bought brand new HONDA brand OEM brake pads for all 3 calipers. My intent was to replace the rear caliper in a few weeks with a new one too.
As said, I installed 2 brand new front calipers with a new SMC on the left one.
Then STumped (Dave) came over and we rebuilt the master cylinder (make sure and get the proper snap ring pliers if you're going to do this, it will save tons of time!).
He and I bled the whole system AGAIN, all the way through and replaced the "brake master" pads with the OEM ones and lubed the pins, etc. Before changing, or even touching the rear brakes, I showed Dave that I could get about a 3/4 of a rotation out of the tire when up on the center stand and rolling the rear with my foot. He tried the same, then check his bike. A huge difference. He could get 1 1/2 to 2 turns out of his.
We changed the rear and did the full system bleeding procedure. The rear will now turn 2 turns easily. I'm stuck on "Igofar's" suggestion, OEM PADS PEOPLE!!!
The fronts will rotate 2 times now as well. Previously they would turn a little less than the rear.
I cannot say definitively that the pads were the whole culprit since I changed so many components. I can say they were absolutely the culprit on the rear. The old SMC on the front left caliper moved in and out with a little bit of resistance. It might have been near going bad or contributing to the problem. The new SMC's plunger moved freely in and out.
My hat is off to Dave and a great big THANKS to him for his help. We diligently and meticulously went through the brake system slowly and carefully. The front still felt mushy last night. I zip tied the lever in place over night and this morning the brakes are nice and solid all the way around.
The moral of this story, if you didn't pick up on it, is to pay the extra $ and get OEM pads. I believe my problems would've been greatly reduced if I had. Of course, clean the brake pistons with "BRAKE FLUID ONLY" and lube all the pins on the calipers.
We also installed a new windscreen motor and VStream windscreen. I'm finishing up putting the tupperware back on, but the lower cowls were really faded due to miles and heat. I got some flat black paint and painted them a few minutes ago. They are drying at the moment and I'll reassemble "blurple shirley", as my buddy calls her, and take her out for a strut around the neighborhood.
I rode her to the auto parts store for the paint and a new blinker bulb, and she spins magnificently and brakes great too.
I will give "Igofar" credit for this one. Early into my escapade he said to stick with OEM pads. I had already bought new pads prescribed by the STealer as acceptable replacements. Those were "Brake Master" pads. They went on well, but after I changed them, the rear drug a little, but the front were worse. I read some posts saying a little drag was acceptable. So, during my attempts to remedy the drag, I continued to ride. Each week or two, or three, I'd try something different or in addition to what I'd previously done. I'd seen many "dragging brake" posts and kept my eyes on new ones.
What I did:
Bought a used set of calipers on ebay with the intent of rebuilding them (really only consists of replacing pistons and seals).
Bought new seals.
Rebuilt my existing calipers (used emory cloth to polish the center pistons, I don't recommend this, they wouldn't slide at all after I polished them). I had to use the center pistons from the ebay set to make my calipers workable; however, the centers still didn't slide acceptable (to me anyway).
Bled the brake system 3 times over 2 months, completely, thoroughly, and correctly.
Cleaned and recleaned the calipers and pistons.
I was about to have a steel braided setup made out of the hoses I got with the ebay set. Before I did that, I bought 2 brand new front calipers and installed them yesterday morning. With that purchase I bought brand new HONDA brand OEM brake pads for all 3 calipers. My intent was to replace the rear caliper in a few weeks with a new one too.
As said, I installed 2 brand new front calipers with a new SMC on the left one.
Then STumped (Dave) came over and we rebuilt the master cylinder (make sure and get the proper snap ring pliers if you're going to do this, it will save tons of time!).
He and I bled the whole system AGAIN, all the way through and replaced the "brake master" pads with the OEM ones and lubed the pins, etc. Before changing, or even touching the rear brakes, I showed Dave that I could get about a 3/4 of a rotation out of the tire when up on the center stand and rolling the rear with my foot. He tried the same, then check his bike. A huge difference. He could get 1 1/2 to 2 turns out of his.
We changed the rear and did the full system bleeding procedure. The rear will now turn 2 turns easily. I'm stuck on "Igofar's" suggestion, OEM PADS PEOPLE!!!
The fronts will rotate 2 times now as well. Previously they would turn a little less than the rear.
I cannot say definitively that the pads were the whole culprit since I changed so many components. I can say they were absolutely the culprit on the rear. The old SMC on the front left caliper moved in and out with a little bit of resistance. It might have been near going bad or contributing to the problem. The new SMC's plunger moved freely in and out.
My hat is off to Dave and a great big THANKS to him for his help. We diligently and meticulously went through the brake system slowly and carefully. The front still felt mushy last night. I zip tied the lever in place over night and this morning the brakes are nice and solid all the way around.
The moral of this story, if you didn't pick up on it, is to pay the extra $ and get OEM pads. I believe my problems would've been greatly reduced if I had. Of course, clean the brake pistons with "BRAKE FLUID ONLY" and lube all the pins on the calipers.
We also installed a new windscreen motor and VStream windscreen. I'm finishing up putting the tupperware back on, but the lower cowls were really faded due to miles and heat. I got some flat black paint and painted them a few minutes ago. They are drying at the moment and I'll reassemble "blurple shirley", as my buddy calls her, and take her out for a strut around the neighborhood.
I rode her to the auto parts store for the paint and a new blinker bulb, and she spins magnificently and brakes great too.
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