Brakes "WERE" dragging

[George]

I just went thru an issue with after market pads on my ABS II 1100 (same pad part numbers as the 1300): while getting ready to depart on my current trip, found the front pads worn to limits. Being short of time, I rummaged around in my parts bin and found a previously rejected set of new after-market pads, cheap stuff from E-Bay. To get them to fit, I had to grind a little off the rear hanger tabs, otherwise the pin holes wouldn't line up. Replaced them with OEM at the first opportunity, OHSTOC.

Point of the story: with the possible exception of EBC, after market pads are not made to the same tolerance as demanded by Honda. Over the years, I've tried just about everything on the market and always return to OEM. A few years ago, Miguel DuHamel had an ad in the rags, "I use OEM brake pads in my race bikes, if they're good enough for me, they're good enough for you."

 

[Igofar]

One thing I can tell you about the header wrap...besides the burning smell of oil that may have gotten on it during the last oil change...
Is it will cause your header pipes to rust out in short order
Everytime they get wet, they trap moisture, then cause the rusting process.
Discovered this on Trials bikes a few years back. The header pipe would have pits and holes in it by the end of the season.
Not saying it will happen, just that it can. .02

 

[dduelin]

1300 headers are stainless steel. They will rust eventually but it will be a very long time even when wrapped.

 

[Igofar]

1300 headers are stainless steel. They will rust eventually but it will be a very long time even when wrapped.

Yeah ok...so were the header pipes on a couple of my trials bikes.
Rusted through them within a year.

 

[dduelin]

Pretty crappy stainless you had although stainless comes in a variety of alloys from slightly ferrous to non ferrous. Must not have been a Honda at any rate to fail like that.

 

[st1300r]

There's stainless and then there's stainless at high temp with moisture and mechanical stress.
fwiw the headers are quite a bit more magnetic then the ss cans.

 

[Igofar]

There's stainless and then there's stainless at high temp with moisture and mechanical stress.
fwiw the headers are quite a bit more magnetic then the ss cans.

Well Said....:bow1::bow1::bow1:

 

[adamk]

Point of the story: with the possible exception of EBC, after market pads are not made to the same tolerance as demanded by Honda. Over the years, I've tried just about everything on the market and always return to OEM.

I agree 100% George! Had the same issue earlier this year. Can't remember the brand name, but the wheels dragged noticeably with these pads. I couldn't even push the bike easily on a flat parking garage slab!?! EBCs are OK, but a little too "grabby" for me. OEMs feel just right......

 

[dduelin]

There's stainless and then there's stainless at high temp with moisture and mechanical stress.
fwiw the headers are quite a bit more magnetic then the ss cans.

That's what I meant by the variety of stainless available from slightly ferrous to ferrous. You can look at the headers and know they aren't 304 or 316 series. I'd trust that Honda chose good stuff for the application, unlike those in Larry's trials bikes. Basically, folks been wrapping headers around here for as long as folks been complaining about the heat off of them. Have we ever heard yet about a single 1300 owner with rusted out headers?

 

[Howesound]

I am sure that wraping your header pipes with asbestos wrap will help keep the heat down but is inhaling burnt asbestos fumes worth the health risks? Not for this boy. IMHO

 

[CGRedRed]

Here's some advice I just posted elsewhere that will, if nothing else, keep your SMC from causing your rear brake to drag--and keep your fork from rattling on bumps.
"(Fork rattle) is common and is, indeed, caused by the left front caliper moving back and forth against the piston pushrod, which bears against, but is not attached to the SMC piston. Here's the quick and cure:
Obtain a block of hard rubber about 1/4" thick and 1/2" square. You can get a suitable item at an auto glass shop that uses small pieces of hard rubber as spacers at the base of windshields. Disconnect the upper bolt attaching the SMC to the fork slider. (behind reflector in photo attached) Slip the rubber block between the slider and SMC body,(at red arrow) reattach the bolt and you're done. While you're at it, put a gob of silicone grease in the SMC housing (under the rubber boot) to prevent moisture intrusion and the resulting corrosion that has caused so many rear brake lock-up problems. My '05 has operated silently and perfectly for 5 years after exhibiting both noise and lock-up and my doing the above."
Tim Shevlin #1183

 

[Igofar]

Here's some advice I just posted elsewhere that will, if nothing else, keep your SMC from causing your rear brake to drag--and keep your fork from rattling on bumps.
"(Fork rattle) is common and is, indeed, caused by the left front caliper moving back and forth against the piston pushrod, which bears against, but is not attached to the SMC piston. Here's the quick and cure:
Obtain a block of hard rubber about 1/4" thick and 1/2" square. You can get a suitable item at an auto glass shop that uses small pieces of hard rubber as spacers at the base of windshields. Disconnect the upper bolt attaching the SMC to the fork slider. (behind reflector in photo attached) Slip the rubber block between the slider and SMC body,(at red arrow) reattach the bolt and you're done. While you're at it, put a gob of silicone grease in the SMC housing (under the rubber boot) to prevent moisture intrusion and the resulting corrosion that has caused so many rear brake lock-up problems. My '05 has operated silently and perfectly for 5 years after exhibiting both noise and lock-up and my doing the above."
Tim Shevlin #1183

My question is....how much of your braking system have you disabled?
For the block of rubber to be firm enough to stop rattle, would it not also prevent the caliper
from moving forward enough to engauge the SMC?
Just wondering.
For the past 5 years, you may have been operating on 50% of your brakes.
.02

 

[hockeypop200]

Ive got a '10 st1300, abs, and had a severe rear brake dragging issue a short time back. No and's ifs or whats as to what it was either- the caliper activated piston on the left front caliper was sticking in after using any of the brakes, thus engaging the back brakes and not letting go. Until I nailed it down, it nearly stranded me in a couple of intersections, thats how badly they were locked up! Poor design there, Honda pointed that piston straight up nearly, with a boot on it granted, but being a year round rider, water would settle in that cavity there and corrode that little piston bore a little. I didnt want to do any brake bleeding with the 395 nipples that day, so I removed front left caliper, pointed that piston straight up, pulled the boot up a little, put a few drops of brake fluid in that bore over night. Worked it a bit , good to go. Havnt had another issue since. I had burned thru a set of rear pads in a bout a week prior to this. My disc is slightly blue tinted now. I had sensed power loss, but never attributed it to brakes until I was at an somewhat downhill intersection and noticed bike wasnt trying to roll back. May be exclusive to my year, havnt seen any other posts yet, but im new too. Hope this helps somebody