Clutch issue.

Joined
Oct 27, 2008
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Tempe, AZ
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2002 ST1100
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8063
I recently change my clutch last Nov. I have been using Rotella T6 for the last 15yrs. No issues til now. It's slipping. Running at any speed, give it gas and time go up 1500 to 2000 and no change in speed. Have to nudge it slowly to gain speed. I figure it was the oil. Changed the oil and filter. Still slips. Is the clutch trashed? Can it be cleaned?
 
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Pete.
There has been a lot of discussion lately about whether or not Rotella changed. I'm guessing it did.
I think the best way forward is to replace the clutch again and use bike oil only.
Look on the bright side, it'll be quicker to do the second time.
I'm sure others will chime in soon and it'll soon be a 200 post oil thread before tomorrow morn.
Good luck.
Upt.
 

Nashcat

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I don’t think it’s the oil. The return in the master cylinder could be clogged, or the slave cylinder could be sticking. They’re easier to check than changing the clutch again. I’m still using the newer T6 in 2 bikes, with no problems.

John
 

woodybelle

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I find it hard to believe that oil is causing your issue. You are not the only one still running Rotella T6 and your slipping issue sounds severe. If it was. the oil then I think that we would have heard a lot more about slipping clutches. That being said I am not sure what could cause the issue. Make sure that you have at least a little free play at the clutch lever. Hopefully others will chime in on other possible causes.
 

bdalameda

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As stated by Nashcat - the oil return port in the clutch master cylinder may be plugged causing pressure to build in the clutch hydraulic circuit. This keeps pressure that holds the clutch slightly open so it slips. I would also check the clutch lever pivot bolt and bushing hole along with the piston actuator in the clutch master cylinder as I have seen these get hung up and hold the piston from returning all the way.
The last problem may be the clutch springs - I have seen a few cases of the clutch springs losing tension over time and need replacing.
 
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I don’t think it’s the oil. The return in the master cylinder could be clogged, or the slave cylinder could be sticking. They’re easier to check than changing the clutch again. I’m still using the newer T6 in 2 bikes, with no problems.

John
Bingo! This could very well be the problem. It was for my 95 ST1100. I removed the master cylinder cleaned the return port and no more clutch problems. It's worth looing into and super easy to check and clean. Good luck! I also doubt its the oil causing this issue UNLES you did not soak the plates for at least an hour minimum.
 
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direwolf1012
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8063
Rebuilt master & slave, but I will check. Did a major overhaul last summer at 86k. T belt, both masters , brakes , fork seals. I did not replace the clutch springs, it could be that.
.
 
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If those clutch springs were working before I can't see they wouldn't work now?
I can't see why the metal plates wouldn't be serviceable, but the ideas to check the other items are also sound.
Did it start to slip straight after the work or after a subsequent oil change?
Upt.
 
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direwolf1012
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2002 ST1100
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8063
I checked the return port, came squirting out when I removed the little plate covering it. Flushed the fluid because it was a little dark. Still have the slipping. When I replaced the clutch, I did both fiber (soaked overnight) & steel. Had no slipping before, but had a chatter in 2nd gear.
 
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Try cracking the bleeder screw on the clutch circuit and see if it is under any pressure, if not pop the cover off and see if the plates are work as built. I can't think of any way the clutch can be assembled to allow the pushrod to hold it released. Think back and see if you come up with something. I have heard of oil causing this but am not familiar with the Rotella oil. going by what I have heard it doesn't sound like it. Sounds like something in the cover assembly is causing the cover to be lifted a bit.
 

bdalameda

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Not an oil problem - oil can cause clutch chatter or squawking when starting off from a start but not constant slipping. As I said before also check the clutch lever pivot bolt and lever hole for wear. If worn the clutch actuator pin or piston can get wedged and not fully release when the lever is released.
 

bdalameda

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Usually when clutch springs get weak the first signs occur when you are in high gear at speed and crank the throttle open and slipping will start. I had my springs weaken when I had my ST and this happened. Sudden severe slipping occurring is usually something else causing it like the master cylinder, or clutch cylinder. The ST clutch is pretty robust so I doubt you wore out the clutch plates unless you let the clutch continue to slip a lot for a while.

A long shot but did you check your read drive spline for wear??
 
Last edited:
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Have seen the hub break where the small screws hold tension on the disc and plates , some day i will figure out how to attach a picture from the part diagram
 

Uncle Phil

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Have seen the hub break where the small screws hold tension on the disc and plates , some day i will figure out how to attach a picture from the part diagram
Bring up 'picture' on computer screen, press ALT&PRINT SCRN (which captures what's on the screen to clipboard), bring up PAINT, paste picture, crop picture, save as jpg, then post jpg. ;)
 
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2016 Versys 1000
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6627
Inadequate spring pressure will/can cause slippage..... put the oil thing aside for now. If the plates are worn enough, the total stack of plates can be insufficient length, thus the clutch springs can't provide enough pressure. Basically saying, measure the friction plates for thickness, and you can calculate if the total plate pack is thick enough to the minimum, or how much you have lost over time.... ST11 spec for total stack of 10 discs + 9 plates is 54.72-55.72mm, service limit 54.2. Could also check clutch spring free length, service limit is 40mm.

Check also the outer clutch boss for notching where the plates have been wearing against it. If there are definite notches, depending on how bad they are, if any, this can cause a plate to "stick" and not compress by spring pressure..... depending on severity, these can be filed smooth.

However, do this first..... Check that brass bushing in the clutch lever that the master cylinder push rod fits into. If worn oval, scored or even possibly punched through, you'll lose master cylinder stroke or it may hang up..... check and grease annually. Replace if worn, you may be surprised how much affect this bushing can have.... most bikes take the same one, so available many places.

Edited with ST11 specs.
 
Last edited:
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OK my bad for not picking up on the clutch change..... I'll assume then the clutch pack is good, and even worn springs may be OK. Mileage on those unknown, maybe worth checking later. I will ask then did the outer clutch basket have any notching that might prevent the plates from moving freely. I'd still check that brass bushing in the lever.
 
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