So, I was riding and came up to a stop sign. When went to leave depressed clutch lever and no pull or anything. Just doesn't engage. Bike off all gears move fine. On can't change gears or shift. When pull my clutch lever it doesn't do anything. And ideas or help
Clutch lever doesnt engage
- Thread starter youngscott1982
- Start date
If it's off I can cycle through all of them. On if I get it moving and hit the gas I can pop it in gear from neutral but can't shift after that.
No. I got it to my job. Tools are at the house. Fluid looks mostly full. Like 1/8" to 1/4" below line
Sounds like air in the line
The clutch lever has a bronze bushing in it. The push rod to operate the MC piston rubs on the bushing. Sometimes it will wear through the bushing and not push the piston far enough.
On the bottom of the lever is a small lock nut. Take it off and then loosen the lever pivot screw. Push the bushing (not pivot screw bushing) out of the lever. Look at the bushing to see if the rod has worn through the bushing. If it has, try to spin the bushing to an smooth/round area. Re-assemble lever. should get you home but it needs changed out. About a $15 part.
The parts drawing shows the bushing with what appears to be a hole through the bushing. A new bushing has a slight indentation for the rod to set in. It would be on the opposite side rather than how it is shown .
On the bottom of the lever is a small lock nut. Take it off and then loosen the lever pivot screw. Push the bushing (not pivot screw bushing) out of the lever. Look at the bushing to see if the rod has worn through the bushing. If it has, try to spin the bushing to an smooth/round area. Re-assemble lever. should get you home but it needs changed out. About a $15 part.
The parts drawing shows the bushing with what appears to be a hole through the bushing. A new bushing has a slight indentation for the rod to set in. It would be on the opposite side rather than how it is shown .
Last edited:
Parts schematic
www.ronayers.com
bushing--item #3
rod--#2
2004 Honda ST1300 A CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER | Ron Ayers
Shop online for OEM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER parts that fit your 2004 Honda ST1300 A, search all our OEM Parts or call at 252-758-3084
www.ronayers.com
bushing--item #3
rod--#2
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What @Ron said above.
Except this.
Check it as he said. Its quick, its easy and cheap - if that it what has happened.
Normally wearing through isn't what happens. Often the person assembling the clutch lever doesn't manage to get the push rod inside the hole, and it sits on the outside of the bush.
When this happens, the lever is tight, and the clutch is nearly always partially disengaged. As the engine heats up, the fluid expands and it become fully disengaged, resulting in no drive.
But it doesn't sound like that is what has happened here. You'll know when you take the lever off.
Tip -Before you replace the bush, put a felt tip mark on the top of the bush, so line up with the location of the hole. You won't then have to guess where the hole is for the push rod.
Except this.
Which isn't quite correct. The push rod fits into a hole in the side of the brass bush. THe hole is drilled deep into the bush side, put it doesn't go all of the way through. But - as Ron said - sometimes it can wear - in this case all the way through and out the other side.
Check it as he said. Its quick, its easy and cheap - if that it what has happened.
Normally wearing through isn't what happens. Often the person assembling the clutch lever doesn't manage to get the push rod inside the hole, and it sits on the outside of the bush.
When this happens, the lever is tight, and the clutch is nearly always partially disengaged. As the engine heats up, the fluid expands and it become fully disengaged, resulting in no drive.
But it doesn't sound like that is what has happened here. You'll know when you take the lever off.
Tip -Before you replace the bush, put a felt tip mark on the top of the bush, so line up with the location of the hole. You won't then have to guess where the hole is for the push rod.
STRider
Site Supporter
Another stop-gap solution if the bushing is worn -- oh and it will look worn if that's the problem! -- find some material that you can shove into that bore in the bushing to reduce its depth by about a millimeter or more. I'd use some rigid plastic, like something you could cut from the edge of an old gift card or the like. That will take up the slack resulting from the deformation of the outer portion of the bushing. In my experience, that's the problem... not the bore wearing deeper.
If that works, use it to get yourself home, then order a replacement!
If that works, use it to get yourself home, then order a replacement!
Since the clutch was working and suddenly it wasn't I'd look into (literally) the clutch lever engagement with the master cylinder and ensure the plunger/piston is being depressed when you try to disengage the clutch. One of the easiest things to eliminate since you already know you have fluid.
A cruddy shift linkage can cause this also. Something to look at after you get your clutch issue resolved.
Okay, so when it cooled off, I got off work and tried it, and it engages. Sounds off but got it home, only live 10 minutes from work. Ordered a new lever assembly. And hoping that replacing it will help. Any other ideas?
STRider
Site Supporter
Scott, may we call you Scott?, I hope you ordered the bushing (#4) in addition to the lever (#20) because it's typically the bushing that's worn and needs replacing, not the lever.
Photos courtesy of our man Larry.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
If the bushing is worn enough to cause the exagerated symptoms that he is experiencing, I'm pretty sure that the lever bushing will be worn also.
I ordered the lever assembly
STRider
Site Supporter
There's truth to that, though I've gone through two bushings on my 1100's clutch lever without replacing that.
Needs the bushing regardless.
STRider
Site Supporter
Meaning just #20?
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Curious. I wonder if the lever pivot bolt bushing between the 1100 and the 1300 is made of different material. On my 1300, I had no clutch problems at all. I replaced the lever (and the push-rod bushing) due to a sloppy lever. It was the slop in the lever that led me to go in there, not any clutch problems. If it wasn't for the lever slop I would not have even gone in there at all, thus my comment.