No, the whole assembly with the reservoir
Clutch lever doesnt engage
- Thread starter youngscott1982
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I'll be paying more attention to this in the future Andrew.
Full disclosure, I replaced my 1100's lever with an adjustable one from a VFR750F from the same year. Don't tell Larry!
your probably going to need part number 13 as well (rubber boot may be torn)
How many miles on bike?
How long since the clutch fluid was flushed?
Your Clutch slave cylinder may have given up the ghost, which is very common on neglected clutch fluid flushes.
How many miles on bike?
How long since the clutch fluid was flushed?
Your Clutch slave cylinder may have given up the ghost, which is very common on neglected clutch fluid flushes.
If the bushing was the problem it would be the same failure hot are cold, I am not in any way denigrating the importance of that darn bushing, it makes the transmission hard to drop into and out of 1st gear and down shifting can become difficult.
That problem creeps up on you. not sudden like unless it completely came apart, which would not work later either. When you get it home it will be time to start at either end. When you remove the lower slave cylinder you can see if there is a lot of sludge (usually). Time to replace or rebuild master and slave cylinders, also possible is hose could have damage internally.
Neither one of any these problems should make any noise though, if you heard it, the hydraulics won't fix it.
That sucks that can become a pain in the butt. Time to get a service manual, grab a lot of coffee and take notes. That helps me remember stuff better, I am old and forget things- like where I live which explains long time getting home.
That problem creeps up on you. not sudden like unless it completely came apart, which would not work later either. When you get it home it will be time to start at either end. When you remove the lower slave cylinder you can see if there is a lot of sludge (usually). Time to replace or rebuild master and slave cylinders, also possible is hose could have damage internally.
Neither one of any these problems should make any noise though, if you heard it, the hydraulics won't fix it.
That sucks that can become a pain in the butt. Time to get a service manual, grab a lot of coffee and take notes. That helps me remember stuff better, I am old and forget things- like where I live which explains long time getting home.
PS. the pictures didn't come up until I hit the post button, make sure you blow out the hose to make sure it is open, sorry if I get a little long winded
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Note that in the diagram, parts number 20, 6, 26 and 4 are not shown as being included in the area labelled part #6 - the assembly including the reservoir. Might be worth checking with the supplier.
22 is the pivot bolt, 26 is the locknut, 20 is the lever, 4 is the brass bush.
22 is the pivot bolt, 26 is the locknut, 20 is the lever, 4 is the brass bush.
Mr.E
Steve
Those lines are LOWER levels!
You need to keep fluid levels ABOVE these lines.
That could be it.
On my 1100, I'm running a 1/2" (.500") MC compared to a stock 14mm (.55") and a larger than stock dia. SC. The lever still actuates the clutch, no problem.
www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/clutch-master-cylinder-swap.167869/
On my 1100, I'm running a 1/2" (.500") MC compared to a stock 14mm (.55") and a larger than stock dia. SC. The lever still actuates the clutch, no problem.
www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/clutch-master-cylinder-swap.167869/