Hi All-
After replacing my water pump and cleaning up things under the hood so to speak, I came back the next morning to find a small puddle under the bike, this time at the rear of the engine.
www.st-owners.com
Ah, yes. The dreaded clutch slave leak. Quickly I whipped thru the forums and found these:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st-clutch-questions.177968/#post-2324241
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/1050-10-hours-to-replace-clutch-slave-cylinder-true.177743/page-2#post-2321207
Very helpful indeed and thanks to Igofar for the pictures and advice in the above threads.
I'd like to add a couple of thoughts for anyone else willing to do this - and yes it can be done.
It looks impossible, but I assure you it is not - the right tools are your friends.
I did invent new curse words which helped me get through this. I won't share them 'cause I want you to invent some yourself!
Parts Used:
1) 22862-MGJ-D00 - Gasket
2) 22864-MT7-006 - Spring
3) 22865-MJ8-063 - Cup seal - Slave piston
4) 81204-MB0-013 - Inner seal - Engine side
5) 91209-MB0-003 - Oil Seal - Piston side
6) QTY 3 copper brake line washers
7) Anti seize compound
Thoughts:
1) Don't even start until you have both flex head ratchets and flex sockets - at least the 8mm flex socket for the slave bolts anyway.
2) See the pictures below - I grabbed random pics from ebay so you could see the tools.
3) Note this is DOT 4 brake fluid in the ST1300.
4) I did this rather quickly except for the inner engine seal. I decided to torture myself and include replacement of that seal while I was in there.
5) I removed the exhaust pipes since I am planning on coating them with Cerakote (more on that later).
6) On my main lift, I raised the bike's rear end using a scissor lift under the engine so I could move the center stand out of the way. I used a 2x4 under the rear wheel.
7) If you have big hands as I do, well, it can be done.
8) Long nose pliers - with bent tips for reaching into tiny places are a great thing to have. Especially for extracting/replacing the banjo bolt.
9) I did not remove the oil filter. If I did this again, perhaps I would.
Other:
I used an xacto to remove the gasket. It was easier when I removed the dowel pins that align the clutch slave.
Be careful with it. You don't want to puncture the hoses going/from the oil cooler.
I cleaned the parts in brake cleaner and soapy water. I used my dremel to get into and remove the crud from the piston and slave and gently polished everything with some used scotchbrite.
I used anti-seize on all bolts except the banjo.
I replaced all 3 brake line washers on the banjo with new copper washers. Don't skimp on this. You might get away with reusing, but then....
You don't have to remove the VSS, but it does give you a bit more room (remember I removed the exhaust pipes). Removing the VSS will cause oil loss of about 1/2 quart so consider an oil change as part of the routine.
Goodluck with your projects.
I found that loosening the 8MM bleeder support bolt - shown here behind the clutch bleeder makes the banjo bolt and stack easier to work with.
Yuk. Where did all that gunk come from?
Ugh! Same on the inside.
Parts used
Flipped over so you can see
Everything cleaned and being lubed with the brake fluid.
I used a few dabs of brake grease on the seal and inside the piston's hole.
New seal on the engine side. Yes, it was terrible to remove and replace.
After replacing my water pump and cleaning up things under the hood so to speak, I came back the next morning to find a small puddle under the bike, this time at the rear of the engine.
Water Pump R&R Part 1, 2, 3 | ST1300 Related
Thanks to members on this forum, I've found a lot of info to help me with various things. I thought I'd post an R&R thread on water pump repair to give a little back. Check out these threads also: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/forums/st1300-leaks.457/...
Ah, yes. The dreaded clutch slave leak. Quickly I whipped thru the forums and found these:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st-clutch-questions.177968/#post-2324241
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/1050-10-hours-to-replace-clutch-slave-cylinder-true.177743/page-2#post-2321207
Very helpful indeed and thanks to Igofar for the pictures and advice in the above threads.
I'd like to add a couple of thoughts for anyone else willing to do this - and yes it can be done.
It looks impossible, but I assure you it is not - the right tools are your friends.
I did invent new curse words which helped me get through this. I won't share them 'cause I want you to invent some yourself!
Parts Used:
1) 22862-MGJ-D00 - Gasket
2) 22864-MT7-006 - Spring
3) 22865-MJ8-063 - Cup seal - Slave piston
4) 81204-MB0-013 - Inner seal - Engine side
5) 91209-MB0-003 - Oil Seal - Piston side
6) QTY 3 copper brake line washers
7) Anti seize compound
Thoughts:
1) Don't even start until you have both flex head ratchets and flex sockets - at least the 8mm flex socket for the slave bolts anyway.
2) See the pictures below - I grabbed random pics from ebay so you could see the tools.
3) Note this is DOT 4 brake fluid in the ST1300.
4) I did this rather quickly except for the inner engine seal. I decided to torture myself and include replacement of that seal while I was in there.
5) I removed the exhaust pipes since I am planning on coating them with Cerakote (more on that later).
6) On my main lift, I raised the bike's rear end using a scissor lift under the engine so I could move the center stand out of the way. I used a 2x4 under the rear wheel.
7) If you have big hands as I do, well, it can be done.
8) Long nose pliers - with bent tips for reaching into tiny places are a great thing to have. Especially for extracting/replacing the banjo bolt.
9) I did not remove the oil filter. If I did this again, perhaps I would.
Other:
I used an xacto to remove the gasket. It was easier when I removed the dowel pins that align the clutch slave.
Be careful with it. You don't want to puncture the hoses going/from the oil cooler.
I cleaned the parts in brake cleaner and soapy water. I used my dremel to get into and remove the crud from the piston and slave and gently polished everything with some used scotchbrite.
I used anti-seize on all bolts except the banjo.
I replaced all 3 brake line washers on the banjo with new copper washers. Don't skimp on this. You might get away with reusing, but then....
You don't have to remove the VSS, but it does give you a bit more room (remember I removed the exhaust pipes). Removing the VSS will cause oil loss of about 1/2 quart so consider an oil change as part of the routine.
Goodluck with your projects.
I found that loosening the 8MM bleeder support bolt - shown here behind the clutch bleeder makes the banjo bolt and stack easier to work with.
Yuk. Where did all that gunk come from?
Ugh! Same on the inside.
Parts used
Flipped over so you can see
Everything cleaned and being lubed with the brake fluid.
I used a few dabs of brake grease on the seal and inside the piston's hole.
New seal on the engine side. Yes, it was terrible to remove and replace.
