Coolant for ST1100 question

I must've gotten lucky with mine - I removed the block drain bolts before reading of any warnings! And thankfully I didn't have any issues with them.
But if there are ways to drain properly without them, then of course no point risking.
 
karuzo said:
I just bought the bike 2 weeks ago, so not sure of the records. I’m all for flushing it. I looked at the service manual and it appears there are couple of drains at cylinder heads that are hard to get to, easier if removing the exhaust downpipe assembly. Are those crucial to drain? I’d like to avoid disassembly of that part…

I had to drink the juice for colonoscopy. Most disgusting stuff. Lol.
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That’s polyethylene glycol- different stuff than ethylene glycol- the other is the well, laxative that isn’t absorbed to prep you for colonoscopy and the ethylene glycol will kill you via renal failure.
 
karuzo said:
I tested the coolant when it was still a bit warm after a ride, wonder if that caused a false reading. I’m going to test again today with cold coolant and see for sure what the reading is. If still too low, I’ll replace the coolant for sure.
Thanks.
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The temperature of the coolant has zero bearing on that reading you took.
 
Sunday Rider said:
It would still be interesting to see
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I rechecked the coolant at cold temp. Was basically the same. Ordering coolant now, will test it when cones in, just in case to validate the tester works ok. Planning on flush and replace coolant next weekend.
 
Protection of -20 is not sufficient for where you live. Even if it was, that concentration of anti-freeze is to low to do a proper job at preventing corrosion.
Testing anti-freeze hot or cold makes no difference to the test result.
Colour of anti-freeze means nothing.
Use Honda Type 2 from a Honda car dealer. Flush it, refill it, go ride.
 
Guide to coolant formulaes: https://gmb.net/blog/inorganic-vs-organic-coolants/

Most critical for our engines is "silicate free", which is Honda Type 2. Silicates anti-corrosion additive is used in European coolants to deal with hard tap-water. But it will cause scale formation in our engines and destroy water-pump seal.

Anti-corrosion additive for our engines is phosphates. So avoid coolants labeled "phosphate free". Honda Type 2 fits needs of our engines.

There are universal coolants claiming "silicate free, phosphate free, borate free, etc", which makes them unsuitable for any engine really. One such creature is GM's Dex-Cool aka Death-Cool. When mixed with any other coolant or even with just extra air in radiator, it turns to goo and clogs up entire system. It contributed to GM's bankruptcy with hundreds of millions queuing up in class-action lawsuits from Death-Cool.

Also avoid using anything based on propylene-glycol, which has 30-% less thermal-conductivity than ethylene-glycol. This had deceptive
effect of lowering radiator temp-readings on gauge because all that heat hasn't been carried away from engine. Tearing down engines using propylene-glycol shows extreme overheating damage with bluing of metal.

Best thermal-conductivity is with distilled water + WaterWetter. It transmit heat about twice as fast as either glycol coolant. Extremely popular with track riders and racers for its cooling performance. But only use in warm-climates with no freezing winters as it won't have any freezing protection. Or change to regular coolant for winter.
 
Anti freeze of -20 is all you need in Chicago. .Anti freeze works best at 50/50. Pure anti freeze will freeze at about -5
 
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