Coolant leak and water pump

randy the x man

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Well after 101k with no problems I thought I had the dreaded leaking hose clamps. A few drops of coolant on the floor every morning. Pulled off the front cowl and right side plastic. No huge leak visible just damp running down the right side of the engine from the lower clamp area. Cleaned it up was able to tighten the clamp several turns. But now after looking at it again it appears the leak is coming from the bottom of the water pump. Running down the crease on the bottom of the water pump and the engine case. There is nothing coming from the leak hole.

Thoughts or a link to a related thread?
 
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It still may be hoses. There are a number of hose clamps tucked up under there that can be hard to get to. Cold weather is when they start seeping. Change out the stock clamps for something more substantial if you don't want to do the job again.
 

SupraSabre

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If it's not leaking enough to mark its spot, it's not worth worrying about! Check the hoses and such, but if it's the pump, but not a lot, just make sure you check your overflow bottle once and awhile to add some coolant in.
 

Blrfl

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The hose clamp at the bottom isn't the problem. The ones that leak are tucked up in the vee under the throttle bodies.

If the problem goes away when the engine warms up and the green blood is coming from the rectangular hole (not the small, round weep hole further up), 95% of the time it's the clamps up top.

What you're experiencing commonly starts in November when it gets cold. Would I be off base to guess that you're seeing ambient temperatures below 50 degrees for the first time this season?

--Mark
 

970mike

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Sounds like you have the common leaking hose clamps behind the thermostat. I just replaced my hoses and clamps with the content tension clamps on my 07 ST after 109.000 miles.
 
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randy the x man

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Thanks for the info guys. After reading several more leak threads and viewing some pictures of the front of the engine with the water pump off. I see that the leak I see is coming from the upper drain channel or whatever you would call it. Nothing from the weep hole. For over 100k I have never taken my plastic off. This forced me to. It is not to bad but a PIA. Looks like I may now have to remove the left side as well.
 

Igofar

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Or you could ride down to California and let me replace those clamps for ya :D
There's alot of helpfull folk on this forum that can help ya through the process.
If you need any assistance or reasureance, just shoot anyone of us a PM and I'm
sure you'll be surprized at all the responsed you'll get to offer help.
Come here for the bikes, stay because of the people..
 

Blrfl

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I did mine without fully removing them (just popped them off the boots), so I was able to keep all of the plumbing in place. Others have managed to squeeze hands and wrenches in without removing anything.

--Mark
 

dduelin

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I reached the various clamps under the throttle bodies by using a long carb adjustment screwdriver and a nut driver made for the worm screws used in hose clamps but I did have to remove the radiator.
 

Igofar

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I've lost count of the bikes I've replaced hose clamps on.
It will depend on WHO assembled the bike at the factory, or if anyone else has ever been under the hood.
I've found them pointing in many different directions.
You should also replace the T-stat while your in that deep, and to do that you have to remove the radiator anyway.
Do it once correctly, or twice to do it over.
.02
 
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randy the x man

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Well I am now about 3 weeks into this project. To be fair have maybe 6 hours total in the job. I got hung up on the radiator hose removal. I found wd40 does wonders. So the rad is now out and the cross bar. The bad news is that I do not think any leak is coming from the hose clamps or T stat area. It is just dirty but not damp. I did get a few turns on the clamps. I have been thinking this for a while that it is still the water pump. I get one or two clear clean green drops every day. The coolant is that is leaked is not dirty. Nothing from the weep hole. I have cleaned out the seam between the water pump and the clutch case. It seems to me that only the very bottom of the seam is wet. I do not know were the channel from the vee comes into the seem. I was assuming it is simply at the top? In any case if nothing from the weep hole is there another gasket or area that can leak around the water pump?
 

Blrfl

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I get one or two clear clean green drops every day. The coolant is that is leaked is not dirty.
This is pretty much what happens in a textbook case of clamp leakage. There's an old thread about this that's worth a read if you haven't already seen it: CLICKY

The aluminum fittings shrink faster than the steel clamps as they cool, which causes the clamps to lose grip and leak at start-up. As the engine warms up and the system comes out of bypass, the fittings expand, the leak stops and the heat dries everything up while you're riding. What you need to do is reach around to the bottom of the fittings and give them a good rub with your fingertip. If the clamps are loose, you'll feel some dried green blood under there.

Gravity pulls whatever leaks into the drain channel pretty quickly, which is why it's always clean.

It seems to me that only the very bottom of the seam is wet. I do not know were the channel from the vee comes into the seem. I was assuming it is simply at the top?
There's a hole there somewhere. I've seen pictures that show it but for the life of me can't find them. The drain channel runs along the gap between the crankcase cover and the water pump cover. Depending on whether your bike is on the side or center stand while you're warming up, the coolant will exit at the front of the gap above the bulge for the clutch or the square hole on the right side.

In any case if nothing from the weep hole is there another gasket or area that can leak around the water pump?
Other than the impeller seals, there's only one gasket that keeps the water pump from leaking. I don't think those have a history of failure. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think most of the few water pump failures we've had were the seals.

--Mark
 

BakerBoy

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Randy, do you have access to a fiber optic camera? I borrowed one and snaked it in under the rubber dam while letting the engine warm up... found the leakers right away. Breeze clamps solved it for me...writeup here.
 
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There is also a small plug press fitted in the block somewhere in the Vee that can leak at times.
 
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randy the x man

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90% of the clamps tightened. Could not get at a couple. What I could see appeared dry. Radiator re-installed and filled with fresh coolant. Ran up to temp. Now will check it in the morning hoping to see a dry floor. Even if a few drops however will start re installing the plastic. If I decide it need further it will go to the shop.

It has been a great adventure. I no know much more about my bike and how to remove the plastic. We will see if it goes back on easier?
 
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