Flashing / strobe bulbs

7440 in amber for the turn signals. You can use 7443s also. (7440 are single element, like 1156, 7443 are dual element like 1157)
Thanks a lot TC. I will order the
LED LIGHT LOAD RESISTOR too ,just in case. It suppose to be for the turn signals, can I used for the stop lights too ?
any idea if it has to be in positive or negative cable ? I'm sorry but I know about mechanic but in electronics............O.
thanks again for your help
 
LED LIGHT LOAD RESISTOR too ,just in case. It suppose to be for the turn signals, can I used for the stop lights too ?

Not needed for the stop/brake lights, personally, I wouldn't recomend it for the turn singals either. I'd swap the turn signal flasher for an electronic version. There is one on Amazon, a direct drop in for the Honda unit. I don't have the link at the moment, hopefully someone will chime in with it.

PS The resistor would work on either wire. Makes no difference to it or the system. But as mentioned, don't resistor, upgrade flasher. It just wastes power and one more thing that can go wrong.
 
You can reduce some of the pain by coating the o-rings of the tail light sockets with silicone grease. Remembering the orientation of the sockets as you remove them helps get them back in more easily.
I'm probably gonna try that. When I originally went in there, I thought, "it'll only be this once." Well. It's been thrice with at least one more!
 
+3 on using an LED compatible flasher instead of resistors. You would need to wire one resistor for each turn signal only bulb so that the LED flash at the normal rate instead of double time (though some riders prefer that).

The tail/brakelights don't need resistors because they don't operate off the flasher.
 
Not needed for the stop/brake lights, personally, I wouldn't recomend it for the turn singals either. I'd swap the turn signal flasher for an electronic version. There is one on Amazon, a direct drop in for the Honda unit. I don't have the link at the moment, hopefully someone will chime in with it.

PS The resistor would work on either wire. Makes no difference to it or the system. But as mentioned, don't resistor, upgrade flasher. It just wastes power and one more thing that can go wrong.
Changing the flasher for the electronic version sound better and simpler for me, an electronic umpired person. Do you know what model because I saw some on Ebay with two poles , are those the right ones? . And also where is the flasher located ?, Do I need one for each light ? Thanks in advance. P.B.
 
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Changing the flasher for the electronic version sound better and simpler for me, an electronic umpired person. Do you know what model because I saw some on Ebay with two poles , are those the right ones? . And also where is the flasher located ?, Do I need one for each light ? Thanks in advance. P.B.

I believe there is a post with pictures and everything about changing the flasher in the Switchbacks light thread. I believe Shuey posted it.
 
Do you know what model because I saw some on Ebay with two poles , are those the right ones? . And also where is the flasher located ?, Do I need one for each light ?
Two poles and it's plug and play. One flasher replaces the factory flasher. A search here should answer all your questions.
 
Changing the flasher for the electronic version sound better and simpler for me, an electronic umpired person. Do you know what model because I saw some on Ebay with two poles , are those the right ones? . And also where is the flasher located ?, Do I need one for each light ? Thanks in advance. P.B.

You only need one flasher unit, it does all the work.

SuperbrightLED sells this one, or Amazon has this one. I'm sure if you use those as an example and dig around you can find one shipping faster and cheaper. I did my conversion long ago and had to wire in a seperate negative for the flasher unit. ou don't want that if you can avoid it and these will let you avoid it.
 
You only need one flasher unit, it does all the work.

SuperbrightLED sells this one, or Amazon has this one. I'm sure if you use those as an example and dig around you can find one shipping faster and cheaper. I did my conversion long ago and had to wire in a seperate negative for the flasher unit. ou don't want that if you can avoid it and these will let you avoid it.

THANKS again for your help, now I know exactly what I need and have to do. P.B.
 
changing the bulbs is a pita and changing the brake bulbs even more so. I installed a luggage shelf below my number plate mounted like a tow bar but instead of two supports i took the tail off and put a brace bar from the subframe down through the mudguard. i never liked removing the mudguard to change the brake bulbs so i modded the back allowing me more space for storage and bulb changing and allowing me to change all the bulbs under the seat. to copy this you would need to look under your seat and check you have a big ecu and small abs unit like my 2008 does. these are the parts you need.

Tape to wrap the loom. reuseable cable tie. sharp knife or electric cutting tool. small hand saw. a piece of plastic or corex. a bit of cardboard. marker
Optional: sealant. self tapping screws

steps:
1. remove top box and rack
2. with a marker mark the mudguard following the line of the under seat part of the grab rail ignore the seat catch bit just mark either side
3. remove grab rail
4. undo screws on the side holding the tail light in plate and the bolts holding the tail fairing.
5. lift off the tail fairing and light carefully and unplug the bulbs
6. with a sharp knife or cutting tool cut out the following. the holder plastic that held the ecu and the angled shelf. the posts at the front should be cut as low as possible.
7. using the cardboard cut a shape to fill the area where the posts were back to where the mudguard curve starts
8. place the cardboard on the plastic or corex and draw round then cut the plastic to match the shape.
9. insert the plastic in place and if required seal with sealant.
10. if you used plastic and not corex you can screw the corners down into the mudguard below but its not required
11. carefully cut the loom tape off all the way down to where the grab rail and catch was.
12. retape the abs leads together. retape the ecu leads together. retape the bulb leads together.
13. using the marks on the mudguard run the abs lead across and down the right side to lay flat on the right next to the grab rail
14. run the ecu and bulb leads along he left side to the back
15. reinstall the tail and light and plug in the bulb cables.
16. the ecu will now sit across the back of the tail light
17. cable tie the abs to the sub frame on the right.
18. reinstall the grab rail the abs cable should sit under the seat catch. reinstall everything else.
go on amazon and buy a pack of zippered canvas tool bag with hanging loop..

The bag will hold ratchet and socket strip and alan key strip some extension bars etc. it will sit nicely against the ecu
i also get a aa mini compressor multi tool 27mm socket and plug kit in the space
if you goto youtube i have a video that shows the shelf and mod called st1300 mods including luggage shelf
DSC_0211.JPGDSC_0209.JPG
 
changing the bulbs is a pita and changing the brake bulbs even more so. I installed a luggage shelf below my number plate mounted like a tow bar but instead of two supports i took the tail off and put a brace bar from the subframe down through the mudguard. i never liked removing the mudguard to change the brake bulbs so i modded the back allowing me more space for storage and bulb changing and allowing me to change all the bulbs under the seat. to copy this you would need to look under your seat and check you have a big ecu and small abs unit like my 2008 does. these are the parts you need.

Tape to wrap the loom. reuseable cable tie. sharp knife or electric cutting tool. small hand saw. a piece of plastic or corex. a bit of cardboard. marker
Optional: sealant. self tapping screws

steps:
1. remove top box and rack
2. with a marker mark the mudguard following the line of the under seat part of the grab rail ignore the seat catch bit just mark either side
3. remove grab rail
4. undo screws on the side holding the tail light in plate and the bolts holding the tail fairing.
5. lift off the tail fairing and light carefully and unplug the bulbs
6. with a sharp knife or cutting tool cut out the following. the holder plastic that held the ecu and the angled shelf. the posts at the front should be cut as low as possible.
7. using the cardboard cut a shape to fill the area where the posts were back to where the mudguard curve starts
8. place the cardboard on the plastic or corex and draw round then cut the plastic to match the shape.
9. insert the plastic in place and if required seal with sealant.
10. if you used plastic and not corex you can screw the corners down into the mudguard below but its not required
11. carefully cut the loom tape off all the way down to where the grab rail and catch was.
12. retape the abs leads together. retape the ecu leads together. retape the bulb leads together.
13. using the marks on the mudguard run the abs lead across and down the right side to lay flat on the right next to the grab rail
14. run the ecu and bulb leads along he left side to the back
15. reinstall the tail and light and plug in the bulb cables.
16. the ecu will now sit across the back of the tail light
17. cable tie the abs to the sub frame on the right.
18. reinstall the grab rail the abs cable should sit under the seat catch. reinstall everything else.
go on amazon and buy a pack of zippered canvas tool bag with hanging loop..

The bag will hold ratchet and socket strip and alan key strip some extension bars etc. it will sit nicely against the ecu
i also get a aa mini compressor multi tool 27mm socket and plug kit in the space
if you goto youtube i have a video that shows the shelf and mod called st1300 mods including luggage shelf
DSC_0211.JPGDSC_0209.JPG

I was impressed with how much stuff you were able to stick in there in your video after you removed the OEM tray/box.
 
I was impressed with how much stuff you were able to stick in there in your video after you removed the OEM tray/box.
Cheers. i could have chopped the square corner off as well but would have had to make a curved piece to cover it. under my topbox carpet i carry a soldering iron a tube of bigger sockets and a paracord tow rope. its useful to have all the tools packed away maximising the space as riding two up i needed the space. now im swapping the 5.5kg topbox for a 1.5kg ply shelf this will let me carry a 3.5kg double sleeping bag and maybe some fold up chairs no problem it will be hooked on the back and held down with two bolts with wing nuts on them . But the 27kg rok straps holding the bag down will prevent it lifting anyway so really no point in bolting it down now i think about it as if the straps failed then the shelf coming off is the least of my problems plus it would be hooked on anyway from the back
 
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