Hey guys, I have all the parts to do the 40 amp update on my '94 ST1100, but cannot find an alternator base 11202-MAJ-G20. I've called everywhere from Partszilla to Bike Bandit. I have everything else. Any ideas?
Found the adapter plate, upgrade completed.
- Thread starter Ned in Utah
- Start date
Try MEGAZIP.net I've had good results ordering from them.
1
11202-MAJ-G20
Base, alternator
US Warehouse
9...15 business days
US $52.68
1
Japanese Warehouse
3...5 business days
US $66.71
1
Average handling time
1 pc of this part is required in this component. Price is shown for 1 pc.
1
11202-MAJ-G20
Base, alternator
US Warehouse
9...15 business days
US $52.68
1
Japanese Warehouse
3...5 business days
US $66.71
1
Average handling time
1 pc of this part is required in this component. Price is shown for 1 pc.
OP
OP
Many Thanks. Gave them a shot. Keeping my finders crossed!
Hi Ned, I am the bearer of bad tidings. The base plate is no longer available from Honda. I just went through the same search a couple weeks ago. I did a fleabay search and messaged every seller of alternator or engine parts until I found a seller with one. There is a an add for an engine up here on CL $125. I think I saw a plate on the motor.
Try David Silver, they may be able to help.
OP
OP
I checked that one, looks like everything is sold but the frame and a wheel. Thanks
OP
OP
I'll give them a try thanks.
When I was looking I called Partzilla, David Silvers, a dealer in England and a dealer in Canada. They all source from Honda.
Hey all, I finally found a shop able to replace my 93 st1100 stator with a new one but don’t know what part(s) I need in addition to the stator. Is the base plate not included with the 40-amp stator? Any direction are appreciated. Someone offered me $1,200 for my bike as is. I would rather fix it if possible...
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Ben, there is no 40-amp stator. The ST1100 was manufactured with two different charging systems:
- 91-95 - oil-cooled 28amp system with stator and external VRR
- 96-02 - air-cooled 40amp automotive style alternator with built in VRR
To convert a 28amper to the 40amper you use some of the parts common to both (Alternator Shaft Assembly - split-gears, bearing, flywheel...). See the link I posted in your other thread. Also, here’s some images that should help:
www.st-riders.net
John
- 91-95 - oil-cooled 28amp system with stator and external VRR
- 96-02 - air-cooled 40amp automotive style alternator with built in VRR
To convert a 28amper to the 40amper you use some of the parts common to both (Alternator Shaft Assembly - split-gears, bearing, flywheel...). See the link I posted in your other thread. Also, here’s some images that should help:
Error - ST-Riders Media Gallery
John
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thank you John, so for a non-mechanic like myself can I take the bike with it’s inoperative (model year 93) stator and the new alternator to a mechanic to perform the service? What additional parts do I need to provide them to make this efficient for them?Ben, there is no 40-amp stator. The ST1100 was manufactured with two different charging systems:
- 91-95 - oil-cooled 28amp system with stator and external VRR
- 96-02 - air-cooled 40amp automotive style alternator with built in VRR
To convert a 28amper to the 40amper you use some of the parts common to both (Alternator Shaft Assembly - split-gears, bearing, flywheel...). See the link I posted in your other thread. Also, here’s some images that should help:
Error - ST-Riders Media Gallery
John
Best, Ben
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Edit: answered here (direct link to post #12):
Alternator/stator parts list for 93 St1100 help? | ST1100-Alternator
I finally found a shop that will do the upgrade on my bike (current stator dead) but Honda dealer says “no stator is available”. I see people are talking about 40-amp models and a “base plate.” Are these available and what else do I need? Time to get this bike running or say good bye. Thanks in...
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OP
OP
Man I'll tell you I think it's easier to win the lottery than it is to find an alternator base plate to do the 40 amp up grade to my 94 ST. I have everything else, but that bas plate has litteraly been a bitch to find.
For the record, the 11202-MAJ-G20 plate IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE from any parts outlet from Japan, U.S. or Europe. Many of them still have them on their online catalogs, and you can even order one and pay for it, but within a week or so you'll get a nasty gram sayng it's longer available and they'll refund your money. I know, I've ordered and paid for four of them. I even bought what I was told was the right part from a salvage yard in Georgia and they sent me the same oil bathed 28 amp part I already have on my 94. Even after I sent them a picture of what it looks like! Still trying to get my money back from that one. This has been one of the most frustrating experiences in my 55 years of riding motorcycles.
However, after three months and some 100 phone calls and e-mails...I finally found one in a salvage yard and it should be here Monday! I made tem send me a pic before they sent it! It's the whole deal, base plate, gear, shaft, used alternator. Now I have to decide whether to use the new alternator I bought, which is probably chinese, or this used one with who know how many miles on it. What an ordeal!
So, I've contacted John O. and the install kit is on it's way. I've watched and read all of the links I could find so many times, I think I've worn them out. Many of the links are over fifteen years old and don't work anymore. I think I have the procedure down that I'm going to have to do. I'm not worried about the mechanics and I'm hopng there's stuff in the kit that will make some of the fuzzy things make more sense.
I have one really fuzzy question though. The wiring. I'm not understanding it. Mechanics I know...electrics not so much. John has said to use the Honda fuse block, but as far as I can tell that's just a fuse in a box? I've already spent way more money than I ever thouight I would. That stinking base plate cost me $260! Plus the new alternator I already bought!
I have a 60 amp maxifuse blade type fuse that I was able to get at NAPA and a cool water proof fuse Maxi fuse holder like the one in the pic that I can easily mount next to existing accessory fuse block. It looks like it has 8 gauge wire. It's heavy duty! So if I use this, does this just go in-line between the alternator and the battery?
And I still need to figure out which wires to do away with that are there. I'm hoping a lot of this will make sense as I start into this, but I'm confused right now.
Any insight and explanation that I dweeb could understand would be great!
Thanks
For the record, the 11202-MAJ-G20 plate IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE from any parts outlet from Japan, U.S. or Europe. Many of them still have them on their online catalogs, and you can even order one and pay for it, but within a week or so you'll get a nasty gram sayng it's longer available and they'll refund your money. I know, I've ordered and paid for four of them. I even bought what I was told was the right part from a salvage yard in Georgia and they sent me the same oil bathed 28 amp part I already have on my 94. Even after I sent them a picture of what it looks like! Still trying to get my money back from that one. This has been one of the most frustrating experiences in my 55 years of riding motorcycles.
However, after three months and some 100 phone calls and e-mails...I finally found one in a salvage yard and it should be here Monday! I made tem send me a pic before they sent it! It's the whole deal, base plate, gear, shaft, used alternator. Now I have to decide whether to use the new alternator I bought, which is probably chinese, or this used one with who know how many miles on it. What an ordeal!
So, I've contacted John O. and the install kit is on it's way. I've watched and read all of the links I could find so many times, I think I've worn them out. Many of the links are over fifteen years old and don't work anymore. I think I have the procedure down that I'm going to have to do. I'm not worried about the mechanics and I'm hopng there's stuff in the kit that will make some of the fuzzy things make more sense.
I have one really fuzzy question though. The wiring. I'm not understanding it. Mechanics I know...electrics not so much. John has said to use the Honda fuse block, but as far as I can tell that's just a fuse in a box? I've already spent way more money than I ever thouight I would. That stinking base plate cost me $260! Plus the new alternator I already bought!
I have a 60 amp maxifuse blade type fuse that I was able to get at NAPA and a cool water proof fuse Maxi fuse holder like the one in the pic that I can easily mount next to existing accessory fuse block. It looks like it has 8 gauge wire. It's heavy duty! So if I use this, does this just go in-line between the alternator and the battery?
And I still need to figure out which wires to do away with that are there. I'm hoping a lot of this will make sense as I start into this, but I'm confused right now.
Any insight and explanation that I dweeb could understand would be great!
Thanks
Attachments
GGely
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2018
- Messages
- 709
- Location
- Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
- Bike
- 2001 ST1100 Non ABS
- STOC #
- 8997
Wow, what an ordeal!
On the 40 amp bikes, the alternator goes through a 55 amp dogbone fuse to the battery. I did a quick check the earlier bike diagrams and don’t see a fuse on the alternator feed to the battery.
After I replaced all the lighting on my 2001 and did the bypass, I swapped the dogbone, which is a fuse style I’m not a fan of, to a 40 amp ATO blade fuse. For a fuseholder I’m using a MetriPack 630. It’s small and easy to make for the space easily.
So far, with about 6,000 km, no issues.
On the 40 amp bikes, the alternator goes through a 55 amp dogbone fuse to the battery. I did a quick check the earlier bike diagrams and don’t see a fuse on the alternator feed to the battery.
After I replaced all the lighting on my 2001 and did the bypass, I swapped the dogbone, which is a fuse style I’m not a fan of, to a 40 amp ATO blade fuse. For a fuseholder I’m using a MetriPack 630. It’s small and easy to make for the space easily.
So far, with about 6,000 km, no issues.
GGely
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2018
- Messages
- 709
- Location
- Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
- Bike
- 2001 ST1100 Non ABS
- STOC #
- 8997
Sorry, I meant to say that the MetriPack is a lot smaller and easier to manage than the Maxi type fuse holders.
My opinion, worth what you’re paying for it!
My opinion, worth what you’re paying for it!
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Can someone please post an image of the 1996-2002 alt fuse block?
Ned, go here: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=942
and click on “John’s list of tools, parts....”
once there scroll down to “If you use the OEM fuse box” where you’ll find the 40amper’s part numbers.
I first used the huge, 8AWG inline fuse holder you have when I did mine. RPITA! Not recommended. I have run the Littlefuse for 130K+, but if I were to do another I‘d use the Honda OEM fuseblock. I’ve recommended that for years. It bolts right up.
The wiring will make sense when you see the documentation with the kit. Pretty simple. The silver courtesy phone is standing by...
John
Ned, go here: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=942
and click on “John’s list of tools, parts....”
once there scroll down to “If you use the OEM fuse box” where you’ll find the 40amper’s part numbers.
I first used the huge, 8AWG inline fuse holder you have when I did mine. RPITA! Not recommended. I have run the Littlefuse for 130K+, but if I were to do another I‘d use the Honda OEM fuseblock. I’ve recommended that for years. It bolts right up.
The wiring will make sense when you see the documentation with the kit. Pretty simple. The silver courtesy phone is standing by...
John
OP
OP
Thanks John, I ordered the block and it should be here next week. I haven't started taking the bike apart yet. Didnt want to until I was sure I had all the parts. I'm sure that this will all make a whole lot more sense when I get your kit and start taking things apart. Thanks again.
DaveWooster
'95 ST1100ALS and '98 Standard ST1100W
This '94 ST has no ABS, right? It's a standard ST1100?
Then what would be wrong with buying a used, 1996 or later, wiring harness from a standard ST1100? Swapping harnesses might be challenging but for some, not as challenging as doing surgery on the existing wire harness.
That is not to say that I understand the swap. I have the newer harness here and do not see a connector that would plug right into a 40 ampere alternator.
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John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Yep. For folks doing the upgrade with salvage parts, I recommend doing just that. And that they talk the breaker into sending the whole alt shaft assy assembled instead of taking it apart for just the plate and shaft parts as they’ll never sell the other parts in the assy... no call ever for them. Of course charge/pay only for the plate, shaft and bearing, 1/2 of retail for new parts. If they won’t go for that then it‘s their labor to break it down...
Just to be clear though, the old 28amper’s wiring still has be removed (the 3 yellows and the white), the red and black leads capped, and a new 10 or 12 gage lead fabricated for the new fuseblock-to-+battery post (or starter relay post like the ‘96-’02s’ harness) connection.
John
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OP
OP
Bing!!! That's the sound of this wiring stuff suddenly making sense ( Thanks to John O' s wisdom and after studying the links he provided again)! I got the new 96+ wire harness (3210-MAJ-G40) that goes from the alternator to the fused block etc, so won't have to try to rebuild the one on my 94. My one question is, after I remove the VRR and the white male plug end (is male ok to say in this stinking PC world?), snip the right wires (hopefully) and unplug the male end of the red plug, I'll still have the female end of the red plug that just won't be used anymore? Is that correct?
