John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
The red female plug with the three yellow leads is hardwired directly to the 28amper’s stator which is removed as a unit and discarded.
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Found the adapter plate, upgrade completed.
- Thread starter Ned in Utah
- Start date
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
The white wire is removed from the bike. Snip it at the black 2P connector with the black wire but leave the black wire. That now 1P plug connects to the 40amper’s connector. Look at the picture of the upgrade wiring harness in my gallery (and posted elsewhere here and on ST-Riders).
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
If your white 6P plug to the VRR is in good shape, leave enough length to the wire leads to it so that someone who needs one (theirs is damaged) and is trying to keep a 28amp system working, can splice it into their harness.
OP
OP
I'm suddenly getting stoked to do this! Finally it all makes sense! Thanks John O! Now if that stinking plate with associated gears and bearing intact, will just get here!
Mostly, except that the plug ends should now be referred to as “xx” or “xy” so as not to sound sexist
Ned,
I'll take that white 6P plug when you do your upgrade. I'm planning to to keep my 28 Amp system and would like to replace the burned white 6P plug which I had to cut up. These ST1100 are getting quite labor intensive for formerly stone reliable bikes. Same can be said for me at 73yo.
Thanks,
Ed
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Ned, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.
For others, (from my alt album) here’s what the 96-02 harness looks like with the fuseblock (a.k.a., fuseable link) attached:
edit: credit image to Joe Urban, STOC 4889
Note: the fuseblock’s black plastic cover with stored spare links isn’t shown, sorry, can’t find an image right now.
Note the black female 2P (w/single black lead) that mounts to the frame in place of the old one, and into which the 28amper’s male 2P (now 1P with the white lead snipped out) plugs.
Also note the short lead from the bottom side of the fuseblock to the common starter-relay/battery connection. This is the only lead that DIYers need to fabricate on their own. As the ring connector to attach it to the starter relay needs to be quite small in order to fit there, the selection of even normally available uninsulated connectors is problematic when trying to crimp one onto 10 AWG wire. BTDT So I recommend running this lead right to the pos+ battery post instead, using larger ring connectors. Much easier and works the same. FWIW
John
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OP
OP
Well I got John O.'s install kit (wow that thing has everything) and started taking the bike apart yesterday. Waited all week for my OEM fuse block to come, then got a nasty gram saying that Covid-19 was affecting their suppliers so it would be delayed with apologies for any inconvenience. Man, the riding season is going to be over soon, so I'm pressing on with game plane B!
![0727201346[1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/125/125571-6b14c86bf1f204028fb4e7369ae078f3.jpg)
I John, great pic/info. Is there a way to direct message you with an alternator question? Thanks! ChrisNed, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.
For others, (from my alt album) here’s what the 96-02 harness looks like with the fuseblock (a.k.a., fuseable link) attached:
edit: credit image to Joe Urban, STOC 4889
Note: the fuseblock’s black plastic cover with stored spare links isn’t shown, sorry, can’t find an image right now.
Note the black female 2P (w/single black lead) that mounts to the frame in place of the old one, and into which the 28amper’s male 2P (now 1P with the white lead snipped out) plugs.
Also note the short lead from the bottom side of the fuseblock to the common starter-relay/battery connection. This is the only lead that DIYers need to fabricate on their own. As the ring connector to attach it to the starter relay needs to be quite small in order to fit there, the selection of even normally available uninsulated connectors is problematic when trying to crimp one onto 10 AWG wire. BTDT So I recommend running this lead right to the pos+ battery post instead, using larger ring connectors. Much easier and works the same. FWIW
John
After comparing my connections to your picture it would seem that I need to change how I connected my red wire. Which may solve my no ignition situation.Ned, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.
For others, (from my alt album) here’s what the 96-02 harness looks like with the fuseblock (a.k.a., fuseable link) attached:
edit: credit image to Joe Urban, STOC 4889
Note: the fuseblock’s black plastic cover with stored spare links isn’t shown, sorry, can’t find an image right now.
Note the black female 2P (w/single black lead) that mounts to the frame in place of the old one, and into which the 28amper’s male 2P (now 1P with the white lead snipped out) plugs.
Also note the short lead from the bottom side of the fuseblock to the common starter-relay/battery connection. This is the only lead that DIYers need to fabricate on their own. As the ring connector to attach it to the starter relay needs to be quite small in order to fit there, the selection of even normally available uninsulated connectors is problematic when trying to crimp one onto 10 AWG wire. BTDT So I recommend running this lead right to the pos+ battery post instead, using larger ring connectors. Much easier and works the same. FWIW
John
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Re: battery side connections from the ‘92-‘02 OEM fuseable link.
The OEM wiring harness connects to the post on the starter-relay/main-fuse unit, providing a path to the pos+ post of the battery. You can duplicate this connection with a homemade wire lead but the ring connector on the heavy wire needs to be a small one to fit the relay’s post area. A PITA BTDT
Much easier, and does the same thing, to just run the lead directly to the battery post.
HTH
John
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John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
I sent you info, Chris, but why can’t you juST post it here and get the benefit of the wisdom and experience of the whole community?
edit: 13 posts in 4 1/2 years... maybe you are a bit bashful...
John
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I have been giving priority to my fish room projects and hadn't touched the bike in a while. I went out to the garage and tried swapping the terminals on the relay. One side of the relay has a "B" and the other and "M". I went from lights coming on to no lights so I swapped them back. I tried connecting my new red wire from the fuse to the battery and from the fuse direct to the relay. I was getting no happy engine noises. I returned to my wire schematic and traced out the black wire from the 2 pin connector. The next course of action was check the fuse. The 10amp fuse looked intact but I had an extra so I swapped it out. SHE TURNS OVER!!!! Now I just have to remember how the plastics go back on.
Turns on, turns over, but no fuel pump whir.