Frozen Rear Axle in July

[Pacificcoaster]

Anyone here ever have the rear axle literally seize in the shaft drive assembly and left side wheel bearing? The last time I had the rear wheel assembly off the bike was June of 2012 when I installed the 2011 BT 023’s. The wheel spins on the axle but, the axle will not budge any further than 1/2”…even with a 4lb plastic dead blow hammer.
My next step if I cannot resolve this myself is the take the offer Dave Stradling, owner of Honda Powesports of Troy, OH, offered me.
He’ll let me borrow his tiltable motorcycle trailer with wheel chauk to transport my ‘07 STA to his Service Department. His guys will use the brain power and experience of their techs along with the Honda Techline and their traveling dealer service rep to resolve this dilemma. And, mount my new T32 GT tires. All for $99/hour + parts and $50 per wheel to mount and balance. Could be 3 weeks before they can get to it.
In the meantime, I can’t wait to ride my ST with the new T32’s and RaceTech Gold suspension upgrade.
And, in August he’s raising his shop rate to $119/hour because he has to.

 

[Bmacleod]

It is likely corroded into the bearings and/or spacer collar. The only thing that will remove the axle is a bigger hammer. You can bet that is what the dealer is going to do. You may damage the wheel bearings but other than that, no other real damage. The bearings are likely toast anyway, so no big deal. Bearings are cheap.

 

[Nashcat]

I think it would be wise to assume that the dealer’s tech will only use a bigger hammer. And, if the dealer breaks something, it’s on your dime. If you break something, you’ve saved the $99 an hour. I’d try some penetrating oil and a 2 lb hammer, with a large brass punch.

John

 

[Igofar]

Standing by the white courtesy phone

 

[mjc506]

I had a riding friend who had similar on a v-strom. Axle was corroded to both wheel bearings and the spacer between - a lot of surface area. He had rigged up a hydraulic press across the axle, but this began to crush the swingarm, luckily he caught it before permanent deformation occurred... In the end, he got an old welding machine, connected it up to each end of the axle, and passed current through it, getting it to red hot fairly quickly. Then cooling it by running a hose over it, and the axle came out with a bit more tapping with a hammer. Needed a new axle, bearings, spacer and seals, but it worked! I'd be wary about trying the same on a shaft driven bike, but to be fair it didn't even visibly damage the seals on the bearings...

 

[Upt' North]

I would take up the offer @Igofar.
I see lots of penetrating fluid in your future, together with a nice selection of hammers.
Good luck and I'll say the obvious, how long .
$100.00 an hour, at least Dick Turpin wore a mask.
Upt'North.

 

[Jethro]

Bigger hammer.Pound in the other direction,then back the other way.Have someone hold bike stable so most of your force is directed to axle,not moving bike across floor.

 

[Pacificcoaster]

Standing by the white courtesy phone

Igofar…I’ll call you when I finish a mission project. Thanks, brother.

 

[Igofar]

Free and standing by when your ready.

 

[Pacificcoaster]

I would take up the offer @Igofar.
I see lots of penetrating fluid in your future, together with a nice selection of hammers.
Good luck and I'll say the obvious, how long .
$100.00 an hour, at least Dick Turpin wore a mask.
Upt'North.

Yeah, last night my wife said I smelled like P.B. Blaster and asked me to take a shower. Getting the Blaster between the axle and the I.D. of the wheel bearing’s inner race is a bit difficult with the ST on the center stand.

 

[Upt' North]

If there's a hole through the end of the axle on the non nut side after spraying try to get it to turn slightly, clock then anti clock, then tap a little either way. I don't know which way the axle comes out of the 13 but if you can rest it on the side stand whilst spraying it might help it flow through as well. This would work on an 11.
Again, good luck.
Upt'North.

 

[Sadlsor]

The ST1300 axle is removed from the right side, looking forward.
Same side as the drive hub is on.
So, on the sidestand, penetrant could conceivably run downhill to the sticky parts.

 

[Pacificcoaster]

The ST1300 axle is removed from the right side, looking forward.
Same side as the drive hub is on.
So, on the sidestand, penetrant could conceivably run downhill to the sticky parts.

That is absolutely brilliant, Sadlsor! Igofar has been encouraging me in this endeavor today. Since I've only been able to move the axle left-to-right and right-to left less than a 1/4", we thought that PB Blaster flooded into the right side gap might penetrate overnight into the bearing ID's and the collar to release the potential rust and corrosion locking the axle in place. We'll find out tomorrow.

 

[Pacificcoaster]

If there's a hole through the end of the axle on the non nut side after spraying try to get it to turn slightly, clock then anti clock, then tap a little either way. I don't know which way the axle comes out of the 13 but if you can rest it on the side stand whilst spraying it might help it flow through as well. This would work on an 11.
Again, good luck.
Upt'North.

Thanks, Upt'North. That's kinda where Igofar and I ended for the day like Sadlsor pointed out also.

 

[jmcarruth]

This has happened to me, twice, on other bikes. Bathe that sucker with PB Blaster and let it sit at least overnight, as mentioned, on the side stand. The next day, put it up on the centerstand, remove the right muffler, and try to safely apply heat along with an air hammer with a flat tool, as pictured. If that does not work use the tools in the second picture. Heat, lube, blunt force and patience are your friends.

 

[SMSW]

I second @jmcarruth's suggestion with a modification. Use a cylindrical brass drift or a block of brass against the axle before you fire up the air hammer. The vibrations will break the axle loose. If you don't have brass (an old strike plate from a door's lock will work) try a piece of aluminum. Hitting the axle with that air hammer might peen over the end, or ruin threads especially when the punch slips off the side of the axle. I'm not sure if hammering on the right end will do anything at all because the axle's shoulder will seat against the final drive, and I would guess that has the potential of doing damage to bearings and other pieces.

I would gently lay the bike down on its right side (on a thick tarp) before unlimbering the PB blaster. Let it sit that way overnight. Deploy the kick stand and lift the bike up after you eat your Wheaties. Oh, empty the upper gas tank first. (You can pull the hose off the lower gas tank, and let the fuel pump work for you.)

 

[SMSW]

A P.S. to my post above. I think that's why manuals say to lightly grease the axle before inserting it into the wheel. It's also not a good idea to ford streams with water more than axle deep on your bike.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

I second @jmcarruth's suggestion with a modification. Use a cylindrical brass drift or a block of brass against the axle before you fire up the air hammer. The vibrations will break the axle loose. If you don't have brass (an old strike plate from a door's lock will work) try a piece of aluminum. Hitting the axle with that air hammer might peen over the end, or ruin threads especially when the punch slips off the side of the axle. I'm not sure if hammering on the right end will do anything at all because the axle's shoulder will seat against the final drive, and I would guess that has the potential of doing damage to bearings and other pieces.

I would gently lay the bike down on its right side (on a thick tarp) before unlimbering the PB blaster. Let it sit that way overnight. Deploy the kick stand and lift the bike up after you eat your Wheaties. Oh, empty the upper gas tank first. (You can pull the hose off the lower gas tank, and let the fuel pump work for you.)

Whenever I have a good pounding to do on threaded ends, I use a sacrificial nut to protect the threads and prevent/reduce mushrooming of that end.

 

[Southwest Ranger 217]

I second @jmcarruth's suggestion with a modification. Use a cylindrical brass drift or a block of brass against the axle before you fire up the air hammer. The vibrations will break the axle loose. If you don't have brass (an old strike plate from a door's lock will work) try a piece of aluminum. Hitting the axle with that air hammer might peen over the end, or ruin threads especially when the punch slips off the side of the axle. I'm not sure if hammering on the right end will do anything at all because the axle's shoulder will seat against the final drive, and I would guess that has the potential of doing damage to bearings and other pieces.

I would gently lay the bike down on its right side (on a thick tarp) before unlimbering the PB blaster. Let it sit that way overnight. Deploy the kick stand and lift the bike up after you eat your Wheaties. Oh, empty the upper gas tank first. (You can pull the hose off the lower gas tank, and let the fuel pump work for you.)

Aircraft trick. Leave the axle nut on flush with the end of the axel. This will protect the axel end and prevent mushrooming. By all means a use a brass punch or plate to protect everything. They do make a brass attachment for your air gun.

 

[SMSW]

Cashew, walnut, pecan, or peanut. The choice is yours.