How did the stuck axle guy fair out? What was igofar’s solution? Is this proprietary info?
Frozen Rear Axle in July
- Thread starter Pacificcoaster
- Start date
The axle has left the building 
The OP has been sidelined with some Honey-Do chores, but I'm sure he'll be on here to explain/describe how it was removed shortly.
I will give folks a sneak peak preview, saying that all the brute strength hammering knocked the flange bearings out of the spline assembly, and still remained rusted/frozen to the axle, really putting our hero in a bind
I don't want to take his glory since he worked so hard, so I'll let him finish the story.
Glad it all worked out for him in the end. We're now waiting for parts to arrive, inspecting some other stuff along the way, and waiting to put 'er all back together.....after the wife gives him permission of course
The OP has been sidelined with some Honey-Do chores, but I'm sure he'll be on here to explain/describe how it was removed shortly.
I will give folks a sneak peak preview, saying that all the brute strength hammering knocked the flange bearings out of the spline assembly, and still remained rusted/frozen to the axle, really putting our hero in a bind
I don't want to take his glory since he worked so hard, so I'll let him finish the story.
Glad it all worked out for him in the end. We're now waiting for parts to arrive, inspecting some other stuff along the way, and waiting to put 'er all back together.....after the wife gives him permission of course
Thanks.Just curiose,for hopefully not future reference.
Sadlsor
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- Birmingham, Alabama
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- 2008 ST1300A
- STOC #
- 9065
Good news, and all I'll say is, there BETTER be some pictures of this bearing assembly welded to that axle!
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Amazing what can be prevented with a fingertip of marine grease upon assembly...
(and staying clear of pressure washers...)
Grease would be nice, however, some greases heat up and go away, I find a thin film of Anti-seize better for axles.
If you use grease on a Harley axle, you'll be pounding it out with a very large ball peen hammer next time.
A thin coat of Anti-seize will still be there for the next tire change, and you won't have to pound it out.
If you use grease on a Harley axle, you'll be pounding it out with a very large ball peen hammer next time.
A thin coat of Anti-seize will still be there for the next tire change, and you won't have to pound it out.
Never thought of anti-seize. I've been using a thin layer of wheel bearing grease since I began rebuilding old bikes, also with no issues but it does tend to clump in spots depending on how stringy it is. Will give the anti-seize a try.Grease would be nice, however, some greases heat up and go away, I find a thin film of Anti-seize better for axles.
If you use grease on a Harley axle, you'll be pounding it out with a very large ball peen hammer next time.
A thin coat of Anti-seize will still be there for the next tire change, and you won't have to pound it out.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
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- 4,284
- Age
- 66
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- Birmingham, Alabama
- Bike
- 2008 ST1300A
- STOC #
- 9065
I use anti-sieze on lots of steel-to-steel and similar hard parts, but no matter how little I use, I can't seem to avoid getting it all over something.
Like, practically everything I touch.
Like, practically everything I touch.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Using this stuff since decades now, wheel/swing-arm bearing seals, brake/shifter lever pivots, clutch/brake levers, wheel axles, head-bearings, kickstand pivots, as aiding lubricant when installing wheel and head bearings... never had an issue...
I do like AntiSeize on the threads of exposed but infrequently removed bolts (i.e. where the carrier stay is held on the rear sub-frame) but it makes a real mess by contaminating just everything within and beyond the work-area...
I do like AntiSeize on the threads of exposed but infrequently removed bolts (i.e. where the carrier stay is held on the rear sub-frame) but it makes a real mess by contaminating just everything within and beyond the work-area...
Bel-Ray is the same stuff as any waterproof tractor grease, with just blue dye added instead of green, but like you, I've been using it for decades as well.
Next time you pull either of your wheels, look at the axle, and see it you can see two brown, or rusted wear spots where the bearings were
AntiSeize is called for in many service manuals instead of grease.
They both work, I just find the AntiSeize is still painted on the surface with no witness marks 10,000 miles later for your next tire change.
The trick is just a very small amount (film) then wipe it all around ( I won't use the phrase, stroke the axle shaft ) and it will appear painted grey, with no excess to creep over other stuff.
Next time you pull either of your wheels, look at the axle, and see it you can see two brown, or rusted wear spots where the bearings were
AntiSeize is called for in many service manuals instead of grease.
They both work, I just find the AntiSeize is still painted on the surface with no witness marks 10,000 miles later for your next tire change.
The trick is just a very small amount (film) then wipe it all around ( I won't use the phrase, stroke the axle shaft ) and it will appear painted grey, with no excess to creep over other stuff.
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"I do like AntiSeize on the threads of exposed but infrequently removed bolts (i.e. where the carrier stay is held on the rear sub-frame) but it makes a real mess by contaminating just everything within and beyond the work-area... "
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ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Dang!
Now I can't get the image of a grey bearded guy on the set of Goldfinger out of my head...
I’ve made a number of tire changes on my ST1300 in the 70,000 plus miles. No problems removing axels but I always put a thin coat of wheel bearing grease on the axles to protect them from rust or corrosion. Did the same for my ole 80,000 Valkyrie 1500.