Got the CT mounted but I don't notice any difference

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Interesting. Very interesting....:popcorn

I'm not convinced this is a great idea - but I'm no longer so sure that it isn't. As quickly as I go through rears it is definitely something to think about...

Is this an option on 1100's as well or just on the 13's?
 
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Are you running more then 50 PSI? The Hankook tire is rated to 50 PSI.
I was just joking about the over inflation thing. I plan on starting at 42 and see what it is like. The tire is mounted for real now, I will post a couple pics in a little bit. I will say this much. I joked that it can't be harder to mount than an 020. Well, I was wrong. These things are a major PITA to mount. I couldn't do it by myself. I recruited the wife and we couldn't get it on together but got close. Close enough that by biggest C clamp was able to provide a 5th hand to get it on. The one thing that is odd is when I went to seat the bead. I inflated to about 60 PSI trying to get the bead to pop. Nothing. I deflated and tried again. Nothing. So I put it on my balancer and everything is spinning true. Anyone else have an issue seating the bead?
 
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Interesting. Very interesting....:popcorn

I'm not convinced this is a great idea - but I'm no longer so sure that it isn't. As quickly as I go through rears it is definitely something to think about...

Is this an option on 1100's as well or just on the 13's?
The problem with the 1100 from what I have read is that there is no direct replacement CT that will fit. Everyone that I know of that is doing this on the 1100 (Bigmak96, George) are using a modified GL1500 rear wheel. I rode Bigmak's 1100 to try a CT before getting this one and while it was a little different it felt good.

It felt a little harder to turn into the corners but I don't know how much of that was the 1100 vs me having more recent miles on my 1300. I feel the same difference when I go back and forth. Other than that I could feel the tire deform a little when going through corners at speed. Nothing that was hard to deal with but just different. Also the tire that fits the 1100 is a lot narrower than the one that fits the 1300. I don't know what that will mean on the road but I will find out soon enough.
 
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BY chance did you do an actual measurement of the width of the tire, knowing the measurement of what works could help weed out other CT's that are possible candidates that haven't been tried yet ... Thanks
I didn't see this until now and the tire is mounted so too late. Like what has been pointed out though I don't think it matters much. Any tire rated with the measurements are going to be about the same. If you wanted to look at other options just because, I would look at what the approved rim width is for a tire. They all may be the same but that is a value that should be specified. While the tire is a given size they can go on different size (width) rims.

The Hankook sure didn't look like it would fit. And it is a PITA to mount but it went on the bike and doesn't rub anywhere.
 
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1100s need the GL wheel and some spacer jockeying to fit a 175/60/16, as wide as we can go. That's what Mark and Guy are running. I have a 175/80/16 'cause I like the more circumference thing, raises the final drive ratio ~6%. I'm also running a 130 instead of 120 on the front. The set is now at 14,000 and still going up.

Handling is pushed to the "tour" side of the equation, just as running Z6s pushes the ST toward the "sport" side. I have both, as STick leans more (pun intended :D) to sport.
 

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I was just joking about the over inflation thing. I plan on starting at 42 and see what it is like. The tire is mounted for real now, I will post a couple pics in a little bit. I will say this much. I joked that it can't be harder to mount than an 020. Well, I was wrong. These things are a major PITA to mount. I couldn't do it by myself. I recruited the wife and we couldn't get it on together but got close. Close enough that by biggest C clamp was able to provide a 5th hand to get it on. The one thing that is odd is when I went to seat the bead. I inflated to about 60 PSI trying to get the bead to pop. Nothing. I deflated and tried again. Nothing. So I put it on my balancer and everything is spinning true. Anyone else have an issue seating the bead?
Wow my tire went on the wheel with no major problem. My wife did help me hold down the last section to get it on the wheel and it was almost seated without any air. I always place my tires in a black trash bag and place them in the sun prior to mounting them. I started with 42 PSI in the tire as I like the way it feels but the center is showing more wear then the sides so I have lowered it to 34PSI I now have over 13,000 hard miles of mostly great twisty mountain roads on this tire with still some life left on it. Ken (zooker13) has over 16,000 miles of mostly interstate on his and he had way more rubber left on his tire at 16,000 then I had at 10,000 Ken runs his tire at 30 PSI single and 32 double up. I did have to let the air out to install the tire on the bike as it is tight around the swing arm.

Mike
 
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Just got back from a quick 20 mile ride.

It now feels a little different but nothing too bad. Now I wasn't pushing it very hard because of the change and needing to scrub in the tire. The route was a mix of gravel, twisties, back road sweepers and uneven tore up roads. Pretty much everything I ride.

I think I will like it. Pressure was 42 at the start of the ride and in the twistiest it was up to 53. Not bad being the air temp is 52 right now.

Pass the cookies....

uploadfromtaptalk1316887557259.jpg

Post ride pic.

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk.
 
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Wow my tire went on the wheel with no major problem. My wife did help me hold down the last section to get it on the wheel and it was almost seated without any air. I always place my tires in a black trash bag and place them in the sun prior to mounting them. I started with 42 PSI in the tire as I like the way it feels but the center is showing more wear then the sides so I have lowered it to 34PSI I now have over 13,000 hard miles of mostly great twisty mountain roads on this tire with still some life left on it. Ken (zooker13) has over 16,000 miles of mostly interstate on his and he had way more rubber left on his tire at 16,000 then I had at 10,000 Ken runs his tire at 30 PSI single and 32 double up. I did have to let the air out to install the tire on the bike as it is tight around the swing arm.

Mike
That is one thing that I didn't do. I didn't bother with putting it out in the sun as it was pretty cool the morning. I could have tried a heat gun but for how easy the first part went on I thought I would be fine.
 
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Spend the $10 to have it mounted at a cage tire shop. I used a rim clamp tire machine to do mine, and the old one was off and new one on in about a minute. I clamped the wheel by the outside of the bottom bead. Doesn't mark the wheel, and very quick to change.

Jim
 
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Ask Any BMW Owner about the importance of keeping your splines lubed. :tools1:
I was going to say that until I came across your reply. That is why the later BMW's went to the 4 bolt config and got rid of the splines on the rear wheel (not the transmission, those still have to be serviced). I wonder why Honda didn't/hasn't followed in suit?
 

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It felt a little harder to turn into the corners but I don't know how much of that was the 1100 vs me having more recent miles on my 1300.
My bike is much more willing to turn now that it has a new PR2 on the front. I really like it. I had a blast at ArkanSTOC! It was a surprise tho, as the dreaded Roadsmart that it replaced, looked very good and it was almost to the wear bars. By very good, I mean it wore uniformly. No center flat with wasted sides like all my PR2s. So I was surprised at how much better the new tire worked. I am going to try a Roadsmart front again when this PR2 is done to see if it is just as sweet.
 

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How many 1300 spine failures have happened that we know of ? Even with all the improper non moly greasing that goes on how many actual failures in a 9yr run has anyone heard of ?
 
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I was going to say that until I came across your reply. That is why the later BMW's went to the 4 bolt config and got rid of the splines on the rear wheel (not the transmission, those still have to be serviced). I wonder why Honda didn't/hasn't followed in suit?
Have you seen a GL1800 up close? I also know the older VFR800 was the same. Not sure about the new 1200.

GL1800 5 lug rear wheel


VFR 4 lug rear wheel


As for why they don't do it on the 1300, who knows. I will say this coming from the 1100s. The design is different between the two bikes. Maybe it is that it is more of a known issue now to us Moly but in all the 1300s I have seen I see much less wear to the splines compared to 1100 with the same or less miles.
 
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My bike is much more willing to turn now that it has a new PR2 on the front. I really like it. I had a blast at ArkanSTOC! It was a surprise tho, as the dreaded Roadsmart that it replaced, looked very good and it was almost to the wear bars. By very good, I mean it wore uniformly. No center flat with wasted sides like all my PR2s. So I was surprised at how much better the new tire worked. I am going to try a Roadsmart front again when this PR2 is done to see if it is just as sweet.
Mark, by the difference I was talking more about the rake of the bike than tires. I agree that different tires respond differently. When I went from Dunlops (OEM not Roadsmart) to the Avon Storm it was like being on a different bike. Even with the Strom it doesn't turn as quick as my 1300. Now that I have put the CT on the rear though I would say they are closer. Until I have a chance to ride them back to back it will be hard to say how close they are. I guess what I was looking more at when on your bike was slow speed handling like what it felt like pulling out from a stop sign while turning. Transition between road surface and how it felt on gravel. None of these concerned me on the 1100 with the CT and they seem fine on the 1300. In fact I think I will find it much better. I do a lot of engine braking on gravel to get around the linked brakes and ABS and this will give me more contact with the gravel.
 
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Have you seen a GL1800 up close? I also know the older VFR800 was the same. Not sure about the new 1200.

GL1800 5 lug rear wheel


VFR 4 lug rear wheel


As for why they don't do it on the 1300, who knows. I will say this coming from the 1100s. The design is different between the two bikes. Maybe it is that it is more of a known issue now to us Moly but in all the 1300s I have seen I see much less wear to the splines compared to 1100 with the same or less miles.

Nice!! Now that's how to do it!
 
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There is a maintanance schedule in the owners manual and the service manual.

Even though the splints
slide together as if there is no space between them, there is a tremendous amount of space there if one were to look at it from a machinists point of view. Each time you accelerate and decelerate the splines clash together (throttle on, power goes thru the final drive, final drive spins, final drive spines free spin a couple of thousands of an inch until they clash against the wheel splines, wheel splines pick up the power and transfer the power to the wheel. the opposite is true on decceleration). The lubricant, moly 60 in this case, is there to absorb the clash of the two sides of the splines or act as a cushionto prevent metal to metal wear! Should this lubricant wear out ( lose it shear strength) the splines start taking a beating and wear faster than normal. Should the lubricant wash out or dry up over time then the splines will wear faster yet! Considering there is 100hp +/- going to that spline, regular replacement of the moly 60 paste ( see your maintenance schedule) is highy important in his high stress area of shaft drive bikes. Also I'm betting that Sport Touring bikes and the riding riders put them through creates more stress against the splines than the average shaft driven bike. Valkrys also have some issues due to the power of the big 6 engine that scoots them along, though not as often as ST's. In a nut shell, If you intend to keep your ST for 30k plus miles and don't mind spending big bucks for a final drive then not keeping up with the spline maintenance with moly 60 won't be a big deal......

Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the information. It is very helpful.
 
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Got the 175/80/16 from a shop in PA. $175 tho, about 40% more than the more readily available 176/60/16.

Here's the link, for Universal Tire in Hershey, PA.

BTW, this tar is rated for only 90MPH ("Q" speed rating) but I ran it at sustained 90 for miles 'n miles across the plains. Our load is so light it don't even know there's a vehicle attached. :D
 
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