Would that have been posted on the American ST-Riders.net site?
Was that failure caused by a seized water pump or pulley? I can't say for sure, but I think the few known failures involving timing belts concluded that the timing belt was collateral damage from some other failure.
I stated that there were no known belt failures. AFAIK, that's still true, i.e the belt as the primary failure, but I'm relatively new here. I have heard of a few belt failures that were due to water pump bearing failure. If anyone knows of actual belt failures as the primary cause, please post up... I'd like to update my post in that thread.
I corrected my post above to read no known belt failures yet.
have pulled it apart water pump seized belt never came off fitted new water pump made big mistakes listened to another mate and turned the cam sprockets lined up all timing marks with a new belt now it back firing out the carbs when I squirt start ya bastard its got to be valve timing is out
there have been several threads over the years regarding the confusion about the alignment "lines" and "punch marks" on the cams. If you're not familiar with that topic, then that is probably your next step to check. It only involves removal of the valve covers and the little crank timing cover.
I had a Civic wagon that also shredded the belt slightly over the recommended interval. Bent valves, etc, and a dealer who got the timing wrong, first time. I’ve changed two belts myself since then; Lexus LS430, and my current ST1100, without issues. Changed ST belt last week at 75,000mi. Low miles, I know, but a possibly 19 year old belt ( no records) is essentially a time bomb waiting to go bang. Changed two pulleys too and the tensioner spring. Left the water pump alone as they are now £245. Water pump bearing felt good. Idler and tensioner had slight play, so cheap insurance for the next 90,000mi.
“Belt looked good”. NEVER let a positive visual inspection “prove” to you a belt is ok. The two belts I have changed looked excellent. All the markings could be read, the tiny cross hatches on the toothed side were pristine, yet they were both old, one documented over mileage and the other, well, no records but suspected original at 76,000 miles and probably 20 years of age. Once you’re in there, change the belt, it’s ultra cheap insurance, my belt cost £11, and unbelievable peace of mind. Nothing like being miles from home wondering if your belt is too old or over mileage.
Ain't going to worry about mine sitting at 81K with original belt. My plan is at 100K to maybe replace it but other than that i ride with confidence.
I've done that with three of them and I am either very lucky or the belt is way over engineered!
Well actually you were the beta tester for all of us. I figured if yours was doing good at that mileage it was good enough for me.I've done that with three of them and I am either very lucky or the belt is way over engineered!
Not that I would crank the wick or run them hard by any chance ....
I don’t doubt these belts are good for 100,000 miles, it age that worries me. A belt is some sort of rubber and fibres to prevent stretch. These belts bend backwards and forwards over the various pulleys. Basically they bend back and forth millions of times in their life. Add to that the constant heat and cold cycles, and bending in cold weather, I’m astounded they last as long as they do. Original belt on a bike that is at least 20 years old???!!! I wouldn’t have your confidence.
