heat problems continue

[chuckie]

Thanks for sharing all of your experiences with me. I have somewhere to look for fixes now. 1) seat adjustments 2. sync bodies 3) inner cowling removal / modify 4) 08 void something or anothers (under cowling).
You guys rock chuckie

 

[Onicabbit]

I rode from LA to SF area in 100 & 106 degrees weather and on a trip out to San Bernadino 108 degrees as well, after 45 minutes of riding at a rate of 75-80 mph I would get hot heels (like cooking hot) that's with my arch of my feett on the pegs and the heels touching the frame and the back of the pegs (combat boot heels). Normal 1 hour commutes in stop and go traffic (non-lane sharing) there is no heat issue. I removed the inner cowls about a month ago and on the commutes just a hint of warmth depending on the air currents while going really slow stop and go traffic. longer trips just felt slight warmth.

Now for you guys that are complaining about the complainers..... DUH stop complaining about your non-problem! This is the TECH forum, let the people who have a constructive solution to answer so it can be a non-problem for him as well.

 

[MidLife]

Thanks for sharing all of your experiences with me. I have somewhere to look for fixes now. 1) seat adjustments 2. sync bodies 3) inner cowling removal / modify 4) 08 void something or anothers (under cowling).
You guys rock chuckie

Also:

Works for some and not for others, but has made a difference for me:

-- Wrapping headers
-- Fairing Deflectors

 

[patiodadio]

I put off getting an ST because of all I had heard and read about the heat issue . Honestly, I have not had any heat problems with the ST.
After reading all the post here I am so glad I have a cool running ST...I don't think I could ride one of the furnace bikes I seen described here. If my ST was that hot...I would be riding something else for sure.

 

[fredz43]

I have owned 3 ST1300,s, 03 ABS, 05 standard, and 08 ABS. The 03 was hotter on my lower legs than my 93 ST1100ABS, but not that big of a problem. My 05 on the other hand, was very hot, to the point of being a distraction on trips, again on my lower legs. I did several mods, including removing the inner cowls, having the headers ceramic coated and then adding insulation wrap over the ceramic coated pipes, and it was better, but still a distraction.

Finally, after reading feedback from this forum on those that did a throttle body sync, I had my very talented Honda tech do that on my 05. It made a considerable difference and I was happy. Two other ST1300 owners also had theirs set by this same tech. The one that had the most severe heat problem was found to be out by quite a bit, mine was out less than his. The other who said his wasn't that much of a problem, was found to be almost perfect.

Now I have one of the rare 08 ABS ST1300's and I find it to be very comfortable as is. That perception was reinforced recently when I rode a used 04 standard that our dealer took in on trade. I couldn't beleive how hot it was on my lower legs, especially the left leg.

I have read that the 08's have a different part number for the ECU, but haven't been able to prove that yet, as the 08 fiche wasn't on line on Honda's site the last time I checked. If it is different, it could be that the new ECU plus the new shields behind the foot peg area help a lot. I may have the throttle bodies checked just for curiosity when I have major service done on the 08. I know for sure that my stock 08 ABS is the best of the 3 I have owned when it comes to heat.

I do know another thing for sure and that is there is a difference in one ST1300 and another when it comes to heat and throttle body sync made a difference in the hottest of the 3 I have owned.

 

[Mellow]

Thanks Fred.. that would surely help describe why a seemingly identical bike is hotter than the same year/model bike, typical adjustments.

I wonder how this adjustment is done at the factory and why they get out of adjustment. I've never looked into it much. My 03 and my 08, both abs, didn't have any heat issues other than just some heat.

 

[MidLife]

it could be that .........the new shields behind the foot peg area help a lot.

Would be interesting to have somebody with a hot bike install the new 08 shields/covers and check if there is a difference in heat management?

Just like you, I was amazed by the difference in heat output after the SV sync. But still cannot understand why this adjustment makes any difference on the temp though!

 

[fredz43]

Thanks Fred.. that would surely help describe why a seemingly identical bike is hotter than the same year/model bike, typical adjustments.

I wonder how this adjustment is done at the factory and why they get out of adjustment. I've never looked into it much. My 03 and my 08, both abs, didn't have any heat issues other than just some heat.

Hi Mellow,

I don't think they get out of adjustment as much as it is luck of the draw as to how they are set at the factory. I wonder if they are set with engine running, or just set to a spec as to how many turns, etc, with the engine not running. I would bet it is the latter and nothing short of fine tuning will correct a generic setting that is not quite perfect.

As I mentioned, the difference in bikes was really demonstrated to me recently when I rode the used 04 at our dealer after riding my 08 there on the same day, same temperature, same road, then getting back on my 08. Major difference. I think that 04 was hotter than my 05 ever was.

There have been a few very interesting posts on this site as to why setting the "starter valves" won't make a difference. In my opinion, there are a lot of theories as to why things won't work, but if you try them, sometimes they actually do work. My "proof of the pudding is in the tasting"" method after owning 3 ST1300s is that the sync is worthwhile and makes a difference with heat as does the counter balancer adjustment with vibration.

On the other hand, as I mentioned above I found the header ceramic coating and wrap weren't very effective for me on my hottest ST1300.

 

[Mellow]

Hi Mellow,

I don't think they get out of adjustment as much as it is luck of the draw as to how they are set at the factory. I wonder if they are set with engine running, or just set to a spec as to how many turns, etc, with the engine not running. I would bet it is the latter and nothing short of fine tuning will correct a generic setting that is not quite perfect.

As I mentioned, the difference in bikes was really demonstrated to me recently when I rode the used 04 at our dealer after riding my 08 there on the same day, same temperature, same road, then getting back on my 08. Major difference. I think that 04 was hotter than my 05 ever was.

There have been a few very interesting posts on this site as to why setting the "starter valves" won't make a difference. In my opinion, there are a lot of theories as to why things won't work, but if you try them, sometimes they actually do work. My "proof of the pudding is in the tasting"" method after owning 3 ST1300s is that the sync is worthwhile and makes a difference with heat as does the counter balancer adjustment with vibration.

On the other hand, as I mentioned above I found the header ceramic coating and wrap weren't very effective for me on my hottest ST1300.

It sure appears that way. I know of all the options people have tried, the one that is perceived as the hardest is the starter valve sync and may just the the 1st one that should be done.

I with I understood engines enough to know why these being out of sync would generate more heat.

 

[fredz43]

I with I understood engines enough to know why these being out of sync would generate more heat.

There was a thread on one of the ST forums a while back by a guy (Bill?) that said he measured individual header pipe temperatures before and after setting his SV's. I recall that one pipe was about 200 degrees F hotter than the others before sync and was brought back down to the same as the others by means of the sync. If I am not mistaken, "Bill" did some syncing for other ST owners last year at the Indy Tech day. Anybody recall that? Anybody at the Indy Tech day?

 

[sroddy7855]

Hi Mellow,

I don't think they get out of adjustment as much as it is luck of the draw as to how they are set at the factory. I wonder if they are set with engine running, or just set to a spec as to how many turns, etc, with the engine not running. I would bet it is the latter and nothing short of fine tuning will correct a generic setting that is not quite perfect.

As I mentioned, the difference in bikes was really demonstrated to me recently when I rode the used 04 at our dealer after riding my 08 there on the same day, same temperature, same road, then getting back on my 08. Major difference. I think that 04 was hotter than my 05 ever was.

There have been a few very interesting posts on this site and as to why setting the "starter valves" won't make a difference. In my opinion, there are a lot of theories as to why things won't work, but if you try them, sometimes they actually do work. My "proof of the pudding is in the tasting"" method after owning 3 ST1300s is that the sync is worthwhile and makes a difference with heat as does the counter balancer adjustment with vibration.

I think the biggest mis-conception about the starter valves is the fact they primarily affect idle and people wrongly assume they have no effect at higher RPMs which they do.The higher the RPM the less the effect is noticed and it is a very minute affect but nonetheless it's still there.For them not to have any affect there would have to be something to close or block them off when the throttle plates were opened.Which there isn't. There is also a throttle valve adjustment that seems to be overlooked or at least not mentioned very much.The adjustment is on the right front TB assembly and cannot be seen unless the throttle is almost wide open. It is used to sync the 2 left cyls. to the 2 right cyls. A lot of complaints about heat and rough shifting of the tranny can be solved by making these adjustments.


The Primary bal.shaft runs directly off a gear on the crankshaft at a 2:1 ratio opposite the direction of the crank.The Secondary bal.shaft is driven off the Primary at 1:1 ratio which would turns it the same direction as the crank.For the balance shafts to have optimum effect the weighted portion of the shafts need to be phased correctly in relation to the position of the crank and pistons. If the gears are not properly set it changes the "timing"of the weights just a little.Too loose and they're running a little behind the crank.too tight and they're getting a little ahead.

I've heard people say that these adjustments make no difference other than placebo effect and the amount of noise the gears make.I would say it falls under "fine tuning" or "tweaking" . I think some people are a little more discerning than others. St manual list cause of excessive vibration as "incorrect balancer timing".

 

[fredz43]

Thank you SRODDY. I agree 100%

 

[edsasdelli]

what exactly is the "inner cowling"

 

[MidLife]

what exactly is the "inner cowling"

Inner Cowls (Left + Right)

http://www.servicehonda.com/hard parts/street/st1300 2003-2004/2003-2004 st1300.pdf

Go to page 204, look for item 16 and 17.

 

[Onicabbit]

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43941&page=2
My post #14 all the parts removed.

 

[Pete in PA]

Yet the starter valve sync. isn't even listed as a maint. item.

Carb. sync. IS a maint. item on carb. bikes though.

I'll be doing mine soon, not so much for the heat,(if it helps, great!) but I like for everything to be right.

 

[SoloTotoCoyote]

Would be interesting to have somebody with a hot bike install the new 08 shields/covers and check if there is a difference in heat management?................

I installed them on my '06 and have felt no difference. I think it's strictly a cosmetic thing.

 

[MidLife]

I installed them on my '06 and have felt no difference. I think it's strictly a cosmetic thing.

Thx! .

 

[RetiredCruiser]

I experienced engine heat on hot days (above 90 degrees) on my legs. I read about drilling holes in the lower cowl. Instead, I just removed the lower cowl. This keeps it original when I decide to sell. If you do this type of mod, remember to shore up the other fairing pieces that attach to the cowl - there are a couple that integrate with this cowl. No more heat problems and the cowl has not been drilled.

 

[sroddy7855]

I with I understood engines enough to know why these being out of sync would generate more heat.

It's all about equality. All cylinders should be doing an equal amount of work with an equal amount of fuel and an equal amount of air.
Think of a cutting torch. The acetylene is the fuel,oxygen is the air, the temperature and intensity of the flame is determined by how the two are mixed. Acetylene makes a yellow relatively cool flame,when you add oxygen the flame turns blue and gets hotter. That's on the A/F side of things.

On the work side picture this.
If there were 4 guys rowing a boat upstream on a 90F day with the humidity around 75% and two them were slackers, two would be doing more than their share of the work. The guys doing the most work would generate more heat. The ones doing less would stay closer to their normal temp.

There's a little more that comes into play,but that's basically it.