In my experience cyanoacrylate glues have a low shear point. I think just about any brand with break free with a quick involuntary twist.
heated grips ??
- Thread starter carpetdude5
- Start date
Yes - and white is high. The drawing is incorrect which actually puts the toggle up for Low and down for High - opposite of what's indicated. Obviously the correction is simple.
The biggest problem with the Oxfords and gluing is the plastic sleeve inside the grip. The clutch side glues to the metal grip and its hard to find a glue compatible with both materials. I tried wrapping tape on the bars but there isn't enough clearance. The right grip isn't as bad because your gluing plastic to plastic. Any glue I can think of that will work on both will never come off if you have to remove the grip for some reason. Most epoxies are heat sensitive and need to be cured at a temperature higher than they will be exposed to. I used to make laminated fiberglass bows and they needed to be cured in a hot box at @140-170 degrees for several hours. If not they like to delaminate if left them in a hot car.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
A company from whom I have purchased heated grips from in the past advises the following;
We recommend slow curing (generally considered 6+ hours, or overnight) two-part epoxy because it is usually rated at 250 degrees F. The quicker curing epoxy is generally rated at 200 degrees F or lower.
If so inclined, you can see their full recommendation in this post.
I followed their instructions and used the regular slow curing (as opposed to the one labeled quick setting) J-B Weld epoxy and never had any grip movement for the life of that bike.
They stated that if heated enough, it is possible to remove the grip but I never needed to test this out.
Thanks I tried slow cure 2 ton epoxy for high temps and it failed when parked outside in high temps. It wasn't JB Weld brand though.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Failure due to ambient outside temperatures and sun exposure would lead me to believe that, while it may have had a high shear strength, it might not have had a very high temperature rating.
My conclusion from what this company stated is that the strength rating of the epoxy is not what matters so much in this application but rather the temperature rating. As stated in the post that I linked to, their recommendation is for an epoxy in the 250 deg. F or higher range.
My conclusion from what this company stated is that the strength rating of the epoxy is not what matters so much in this application but rather the temperature rating. As stated in the post that I linked to, their recommendation is for an epoxy in the 250 deg. F or higher range.
That could be part of the reason the Heat Demon site recommends put heat shrink tubing on the left handle bar besides eliminating the bar as a heatsink. But you still have the problem of decreased clearance. Many if the left grip was warmed up considerably it would slide on easier.
Check this post (linky)