Help needed, first time removing rear tire, I'm worried with what I found.

Mike, call me either tonight or tomorrow.
Your flange bearings have destroyed themselves, and your picture shows the seal on the inner one gone (which is one of the pieces) the bearings should have been installed with the open sides facing each other, so both outer sides inner/outer are sealed.
The metal fragments are the pieces of the bearings cage.
You must clean the entire area and make sure nothing is floating around in there.
The article mellow was kind enough to attach shows how to replace the flange (driven) bearings.
You also need to completely clean ALL the splines and make sure no metal is hiding, then reapply the correct paste.
There are also some other things we need to discuss before you attempt to put the wheel back on, such as sequence, brake inspection, and replacement of the inner drive flange plate O ring.
Standing by the white courtesy phone.
 
Mike, call me either tonight or tomorrow.
Your flange bearings have destroyed themselves, and your picture shows the seal on the inner one gone (which is one of the pieces) the bearings should have been installed with the open sides facing each other, so both outer sides inner/outer are sealed.
The metal fragments are the pieces of the bearings cage.
You must clean the entire area and make sure nothing is floating around in there.
The article mellow was kind enough to attach shows how to replace the flange (driven) bearings.
You also need to completely clean ALL the splines and make sure no metal is hiding, then reapply the correct paste.
There are also some other things we need to discuss before you attempt to put the wheel back on, such as sequence, brake inspection, and replacement of the inner drive flange plate O ring.
Standing by the white courtesy phone.


Hey Larry, good to hear from you again sir (I was hoping you would chime in.)
It's pretty late here, so I'd love to call you tomorrow if that's ok. Pretty I have your number saved from the last mess I got into with the ECU.
What time is good for you?
 
Anytime after I get back from walking the dog, and moving bikes out...say around 10:00 a.m. to noon.
Don't forget there is a couple hour time difference between us, so don't wake my butt up please :rofl1:
Talk to you tomorrow.
 
Doing some research as to where exactly I need to check Joe.
As I mentioned, I am completely new to this. Most I have done on my own is an oil change, and will Larry's help replaced the ECU, but I am trying to learn to do things myself, so forgive my "newbness"
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I've never heard of anyone having issues with those bearings but it's possible those are the ones the metal parts came from. Hard to tell by the pics.
 
Those flange bearings always go bad. After I study the issue is the spacer was too short #18 on the print. So I machine a new spacer a little longer by .010" to .015" of an inch. Naver has any problem again. Tips of the day!
 
Those flange bearings always go bad. After I study the issue is the spacer was too short #18 on the print. So I machine a new spacer a little longer by .010" to .015" of an inch. Naver has any problem again. Tips of the day!
Those are good based on his reply. The metal parts appear to be from some other source.
 
Those flange bearings always go bad. After I study the issue is the spacer was too short #18 on the print. So I machine a new spacer a little longer by .010" to .015" of an inch. Naver has any problem again. Tips of the day!
Thank you sir.
 
View attachment 305485
I've never heard of anyone having issues with those bearings but it's possible those are the ones the metal parts came from. Hard to tell by the pics.
Joe, the circled bearings run in the final drive oil bath so, as you said, failure is unlikely. Messing around inside the FD will involve shimming the pinion and drive gears - not difficult, but that requires some knowledge and experience.

Having recently pulled my old, failed FD apart, IIRC, those bearings, and #25 do not have seals - they are ball bearings open to the oil bath.
 
Joe, the circled bearings run in the final drive oil bath so, as you said, failure is unlikely. Messing around inside the FD will involve shimming the pinion and drive gears - not difficult, but that requires some knowledge and experience.

Having recently pulled my old, failed FD apart, IIRC, those bearings, and #25 do not have seals - they are ball bearings open to the oil bath.
Yeah, I hear ya but if the wheel bearings are good... where else will things come from?
 
The pieces have been identified, a shopping part list has been sent, and he is cleaning and inspecting stuff while waiting for stuff to arrive.
The mystery parts were simply a dust seal on a flange drive bearing, and one of the axle washers (right side).
He will keep us posted when it happens, as it happens, so stay tuned.
:WCP1:
 
First off, I want to thank everyone for their assistance, diagrams. links, etc. You guys are awesome.
And a HUGE thank you to Larry (Igofar) for getting on the phone with me and sorting out my issues and even putting together a shopping list of the parts needed.
What an asset he is to the ST community, and a genuinely nice guy.
As he mentioned, the pieces are identified and ordered, and I am cleaning parts up while awaiting the parts.
I have no doubt Larry helped identify everything I needed and with his help I will get back on the road real soon.
Of course I will update everyone here when it's all sorted.
Thanks again
Mike
 
So, simply the same wheel bearings that have been an issue for ST1300s for years?
 
Yep, his inner flange bearing destroyed itself and flung pieces of the cage and bearings all over the place.
The dust cover was identified by the parts number on the side.
The axle washer that sits next to the axle nut has gone missing, and the thinner washer that sits next to the right end of the axle was on the axle by mistake for the pictures.
He should be up and running in no time as soon as the parts arrive.
 
Yep, his inner flange bearing destroyed itself and flung pieces of the cage and bearings all over the place.
The dust cover was identified by the parts number on the side.
The axle washer that sits next to the axle nut has gone missing, and the thinner washer that sits next to the right end of the axle was on the axle by mistake for the pictures.
He should be up and running in no time as soon as the parts arrive.
Sounds good, I used to replace mine every other tire change just for the heck of it... they can go bad and you won't know it if you don't notice a little notchyness in them during a tire change and they don't usually go more than a few thousand miles after that.
 
Sounds good, I used to replace mine every other tire change just for the heck of it... they can go bad and you won't know it if you don't notice a little notchyness in them during a tire change and they don't usually go more than a few thousand miles after that.
That is exactly what I do on my personal ST as well.
 
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