Thanks Carl, I haven't gotten that far yet and the alternator shop will do the diode checks. I was still checking the wire harness in the first part of 19-9 last night to rule out having to remove the alternator..1 to 1ohm
C'mon Larry. I bet it took at least four drops of PB Blaster...You'd be surprized at what a single drop of PB blaster will do on the rubber boots
As I get older, I try to work smart, not hard.
Yup, that's the test I used on mine. Mine failed this test..1 to 1ohm
This ^. Man, that stuff reeks! Don't EVER use it to unfreeze a car door lock - it'll get into the nooks/crannys/foam of the door liner and take months to subside. DAMHIK!
The service manual simply says these two checks should show battery voltage. The first one Red White runs directly to battery positive. Obviously it should give the same reading as voltage at the battery. If this circuit was open (fused with the 65a main fuse) there would be no charge current and the alternator could still be good. The other wire White Black out of the regulator/rectifier side is also fused 10a as Starter/Bank Angle sensor and runs through both the ignition switch, engine stop switch, and bank angle sensor. In a long circuit like that its conceivable there might be some voltage drop normally. How much is allowable before it affected charge current output? Dunno. My old BMW allowed .5 volt drop in a similar circuit IIRC. With that bike I had two charge system failures in 40K and only one was an open rotor in the alternator. So I did want to rule out wiring problems before having to remove the alternator.
PB Blaster does come in a spray can, however, what I do is take a small needle oiler bottle and insert the red spray tube inside the bottle and simply fill it up. That way I can pin point where and how much I use on applications. Your right about the smell, but it does work better than anything I've found off the shelf. You may also try the homemade Acetone/ATF fluid mix someone posted a thread about last month, It works pretty well too.C'mon Larry. I bet it took at least four drops of PB Blaster...
I'm assuming that this stuff comes in a spray can. How did you control the amount of PBB that you put in the boots? With a brush or something??? I'll have to try this the next time I take off the TB's (I'll try Kroil instead since this is what I have available). I used a two foot pry bar to pop off the TB's when I removed mine. I like Dave's method although if the lubricant works easier I'll try that first...
Without looking at the schematic I would agree that if the circuit is much longer you will see a lower reading. Not sure what the allowable amount is though. I would move forward with the other tests that were shown above. That is where bkra13 found his fault. It will be interesting if the shop will do the rebuild. I think there were some people out in the UK that found shops that will do a rebuild so it is possible but I don't know that I have read about anyone getting one rebuilt here.
I could not say if it is or is not safe for rubber, as I just put it on long enough to break the seal, then wife it off right away.
For mine, when reassembling I used a very thin coating of silicon grease to act as a lube for re-installation. A few months later I had to pull it again because I blew a coolant line below the TB and they popped off pretty easy. Probably a combo of the silicon and the fact that they had been off a few months earlier. I know that you mentioned that if it is lubed that it may pop off but I haven't seen any sign of that. Made life easier for me anyhow.
That was me!!! Wait, that's something I shouldn't own up to, right?
He sent me a PM yesterday (I think) Anyhow the windings were bad. Since no one redos winding and other parts that could be bad as they have 110K on them or so he opted to get the new alternator from Honda rather than doing a rebuild. The mechanic said they couldn't come up with a way to test it even if they were to replace the known bad parts since there wasn't a way to get a pulley on it. So he could get it all back together and find bad bearings or something else. The estimate was about 1/2 the cost of the new one so he passed. I think he said that all the parts he need to order came to about $700. That was the new alternator and some other stuff that he was going to replace while in there.
No, but I will check it. Thanks!
