How difficult is it to change a tire?

[Bmacleod]

Hello All:

I need to replace the front tire on my ST 1300. In the past, I have removed the front wheel from the motorcycle and taken it to a dealer, who has then removed the old tire and installed the new tire. Although I have not seen this being done, I suspect they use air-driven equipment (a tire changing machine) to re & re the tire.

I am now thinking of perhaps changing the tire myself. I have no concerns about the process of removing and properly reinstalling the wheel - what I don't know is how difficult it is to break the bead and remove the old tire from the rim, and how difficult it is to install the new tire and set the bead.

I own an air compressor - but not any other tools that might be needed to change a tire.

Can some kind soul explain to me what hand tools I will need, how to go about removing and replacing the tire, and whether trying to do this myself is even a good idea?

Thanks,

Michael

PM sent Michael

 

[Larry Fine]

I make too much money per hour (self-employed electrical contractor) to spend several hours changing my own tires. I'll consider pulling my own wheels like I have on the Nighthawk (front off in 5 minutes, on in 10; rear off in 10 minutes, on in 15),

But I haven't tried pulling them on the ST, and it's my first-ever shaft-drive bike. I'll have to price bringing in the entire bike before deciding, whether to attempt it. The front should be almost as easy, but I know the rear will be a different animal.

Having a bad back, hips, and knees isn't helpful, although I can still ride. Transitioning from standing to lying down isn't easy, and anything between is next to impossible. I can't squat and can barely bend over, so it's stand, sit, or lie on my side.

 

[Larry Fine]

It is a Derek Weaver W-M807X...

I could never justify the cost.

 

[CYYJ]

Thanks to everyone who has replied. Bruce MacLeod (fellow forum member not too far away from me) has offered to help me change the tire.

It will be a learning experience, I am sure...

Michael

 

[CYYJ]

But I haven't tried pulling them [wheels] on the ST, and it's my first-ever shaft-drive bike.

Hi Larry:

It's actually very easy to remove the wheels from either end of the ST. The front wheel is super-simple, just take the nut out of the end of the axle, undo the 4 pinch bolts, slide the axle out, and that's all there is to it... the wheel comes right off with no need to fool around with brakes or anything like that.

The back wheel, if I recall correctly, is almost equally easy. After you have removed the axle, you need to lift the brake caliper bracket out of the way (it is held in place by the axle), then push the wheel towards the left side of the bike to disengage it from the gears that drive it. Then it just drops out.

Both procedures require squatting if you do not have a motorcycle lift. If you do have a lift, it should be no problem for you.

Mcihael

 

[Bush]

I can't squat and can barely bend over, so it's stand, sit, or lie on my side.

In that case yes, I suggest you take the bike in. Getting the rear off will require you to squat, as you pull the wheel off of the rear drive splines.

 

[kiltman]

On the ST1100, taking off the front wheel,in addition to what Michael has said, you need to disconnect the speedo as well. The ABSII model requires a couple of extra steps. Removal of the front half of the front fender, removal of the right caliper and ABS sensor, then the tire can easily drop down out of the way. When reinstalling the front wheel, after it is in place and before tightening the pinch bolts, it has been suggested to bounce the front end four or five times to set the axel. (Apply the front brake, push down on the handlebars)

 

[Uncle Phil]

It is a Derek Weaver W-M807X...

https://www.derekweaver.com/bikers-garage/motorcycle-tire-changers/weaver-w-m807x-motorcycle-atv-tire-changer/

It is their low end model, but it works fine. The price isn't much more than a higher end NoMar by time you add all the gizmos that go with it. I used a NoMar for years and it does quite well. I just decided to take it up a notch with the full auto. I like it.

I got a similar machine (Atlas) from Greg Smith after using a modified Harbor Freight for a long time. The HF paid for itself after two changes from the savings in tire and installation prices. And these 'fancy' machines are right at the Nomar Pro price and you can do lawn mower tires, car tires, etc. They'll take a BStone BT020 Bias off in a blink.
Well worth the money if you do many tires and have riding friends!

 

[Upt' North]

I make too much money per hour (self-employed electrical contractor) to spend several hours changing my own tires. I'll consider pulling my own wheels like I have on the Nighthawk (front off in 5 minutes, on in 10; rear off in 10 minutes, on in 15),

But I haven't tried pulling them on the ST, and it's my first-ever shaft-drive bike. I'll have to price bringing in the entire bike before deciding, whether to attempt it. The front should be almost as easy, but I know the rear will be a different animal.

Having a bad back, hips, and knees isn't helpful, although I can still ride. Transitioning from standing to lying down isn't easy, and anything between is next to impossible. I can't squat and can barely bend over, so it's stand, sit, or lie on my side.

Larry, the rear isn't too bad but to help follow the Honda manual re easing the wheel off the splines and place a piece of wood under the rear wheel so you don't have to lift or lower too much. Also worth taking the 4 Allen bolts out of the rear mudguard and the wheel rolls in and out, again no need to maul with it.
Hope it helps.
Upt'North.

 

[Larry Fine]

It looks and sounds like the front wheel is identical to the Nighthawk, other than the second disc.

The rear is the concern. I'm not afraid to try it, it's just that I'm not sure I can physically do it alone.

The only musts are replacing the three O-rings and providing proper spline lubrication, correct?

I will call my local Honda dealer Monday and ask the service department what the ride-in cost is.

 

[Mellow]

The only musts are replacing the three O-rings and providing proper spline lubrication, correct?

For the 1100, not so for the 1300, just inspect the overal area/condition....

 

[Upt' North]

It looks and sounds like the front wheel is identical to the Nighthawk, other than the second disc.

The rear is the concern. I'm not afraid to try it, it's just that I'm not sure I can physically do it alone.

The only musts are replacing the three O-rings and providing proper spline lubrication, correct?

I will call my local Honda dealer Monday and ask the service department what the ride-in cost is.

Larry, just changed mine, this was the only one showing any wear after 63000 miles, well, not showing wear, buggered.
Upt'North.

 

[ST-Traveler]

what I don't know is how difficult it is to break the bead and remove the old tire from the rim, and how difficult it is to install the new tire and set the bead.

My very first new set of tires were put on by Landon, a member here on the board. After that I got a no-mar tire changer and have been doing my own ever since. It can be intimidating your first time and BT020 are the hardest tire to install - IMO.
The fronts are pretty east no matter what the tire but the rear are a different story. I have the most luck with michelin PR4 GT's as far installing the rear.

 

[ToddC]

For me, it is the principle. When it was $30 a tire, it was a no-brainer. But then they upped the price to $70 a wheel, plus extras. If they had gone to $50 in between and gone up in price gradually, I'd have no issues. But an increase like that made me realize it wasn't that hard when I did it for a living.

Chris

Wholey cow man...!! $70 a wheel..??? It is still only $30 in Spokane and I found one in Couredelane ID that will do them for $25. Mounted and balanced.....so it's not worth it to me to try and do my own.
ToddC

 

[Ian ST1100]

I just had a rear installed a couple of days ago. $55 Cnd installed and balanced. I swung the exhaust down so the rear axle would clear it. My old st1100 had nice notches in the exhaust so that step was not necessary. The tires that came on the bike only had about 20% war but my first ride I picked up a nail I feel my life is not worth gambling on a plugged tire.

 

[kiltman]

I paid $68 Canadian to have my tires mounted and balanced. If I had them on my bike that would’ve been doubled

 

[Al st1100]

I make too much money per hour (self-employed electrical contractor) to spend several hours changing my own tires. I'll consider pulling my own wheels like I have on the Nighthawk (front off in 5 minutes, on in 10; rear off in 10 minutes, on in 15),

But I haven't tried pulling them on the ST, and it's my first-ever shaft-drive bike. I'll have to price bringing in the entire bike before deciding, whether to attempt it. The front should be almost as easy, but I know the rear will be a different animal.

Having a bad back, hips, and knees isn't helpful, although I can still ride. Transitioning from standing to lying down isn't easy, and anything between is next to impossible. I can't squat and can barely bend over, so it's stand, sit, or lie on my side.

the rear is simple, it only slips into the differential but there are splines that should be greased a few o rings to inspect or change. I changed the o rings 3 tires ago.

 

[CYYJ]

The only musts are replacing the three O-rings and providing proper spline lubrication, correct?

Hi Larry:

There is an article here in the forum that describes the process of inspecting and/or replacing the O-rings in the rear drive of the ST 1100 in detail, here is the link to it:

ST1100 - O-rings in the final drive (rear wheel)

It's uncommon for a Honda dealer to have these O-rings in stock, so, I suggest you ask the dealer to order the three of them ahead of time so they are on hand when your wheel is removed. It might not be necessary to replace all three on this tire change, but, eventually you will wind up replacing some or all of them, so it's handy to have the parts on hand.

The drive gear on the rear wheel (the gear that fits into the wheel) needs to be lubricated with a very specific grade of molybdenum paste. There are lots of discussions here in the forum about exactly what brand/specification of grease is necessary - I won't kick that hornet's nest, but it might help your peace of mind to get a small container of the correct specification paste and bring it with you to the dealership. The consequences of not using the correct paste or having damaged or missing O-rings are severe - the whole drive assembly at the back will wear out, and that is about a $1,000 + repair, if you can still find the necessary parts.

Michael

 

[ReSTored]

I paid $68 Canadian to have my tires mounted and balanced. If I had them on my bike that would’ve been doubled

My cost here in the Toronto area, taxes in and balanced, is $20/wheel carry in. Same price for years.

Problem with dealer service is that I've never found a dealer that had any parts on hand (i.e. the O rings) or Moly 60. I asked a few what they put on the splines and just got a blank look and then they said plain grease......... So if I was inclined to let them do a complete tire change I'd have to be pulling the rear wheel periodically anyway to change out O-rings and apply Moly so why bother.

Other thing is that when wheels pulled great time to check and clean brakes pads, pistons, pins etc.... as everything is pretty accessible vs. when the wheel is on.

 

[SMSW]

Here you go. I recommend using a Corvette or Porsche instead of the old pick up but it will do.

Can I borrow yours? Either the Porsche or Corvette. All I have is a GMC van. Funny how my old mc carcasses were so much stiffer than the tires shown in all of these videos. And my tires were worn almost smooth in the center.