How many have never adjusted the Valves

[John OoSTerhuis]

Personally, I couldn't sleep during tens of thousands of miles not knowing if my beloved ST1100's valves were out of spec. :grin:

I'm not sure what Amsoil or any other engine oil would have to do with valve seat wear, or lack of it...?
edit: ST1100 cams and buckets don't wear.

John

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Ideally, for optimum valve opening, depth, duration, and closing when at normal operating temperature, the camshaft rides on the shim bucket on only a film of oil when the valve is closed. Mother Honda has done the research for us and given us a corresponding clearance spec range to use when measuring with the engine cold.

Always measure your clearances with the engine at ambient temp (preferably not 32?F or 105?F). FWIW
edit: Honda sez: "while the engine is cold (below 35?C/95?F)"

John

 

[barto]

Another reason I use Oil. No wear.

There, fixed that for you.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Valve guide wear, which lubrication has a major effect on, is a major contributor to valve seat wear. It allows the valve to move slightly off center and create high impact loads in one spot on the circumference of the valve causing an acceleration of wear. Instead of keeping the impact load spread around the entire circumference. Once the valve guides wear, the valves quickly start wearing down and going out of adjustment.

Makes sense. Thanks. I doubt that's a real concern on the Honda STs, lacking any even anecdotal evidence. The same goes for any claim of a particular brand of oil's superiority. JMHO of course.

John

 

[MountainDew]

Better then synthetic?

 

[MountainDew]

Guess I'd probably know that if I changed my own oil. Tanks!

 

[dduelin]

Amsoil or any synthetic vs petroleum oil engine wear comparisons are meaningless unless the methodology of the test is known. If there was any methodology that is and not a comparison of two random engines.

 

[nhdiesel]

We have 270k on a Jeep engine with no internal work done, on dino oil, still running great; I had an RX-1 snowmobile (essentially an R-1 bike engine, without a clutch or transmission) which I used Amsoil in from 1500 miles. At 4500 miles it was using a quart of oil in 300 miles. I got a new engine under warranty after a battle with Yamaha. I'm not saying oil had anything to do with it; just saying comparing only 2 engines is meaningless.

As for the effects of oil on valves, if a poor quality oil was used, there would be other damage long before the valves- most likely bearings or rings. I've dealt with enough poorly maintained engines at work to see what usually gives out first- and out of the 100+ engines I've replaced in the past 8 months alone, most were due to a bottom end problem; next highest number were due to bad head gaskets (nothing to do with the oil used); and maybe 1 or 2 for severe valve issues.

Jim

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

i love these threads... opcorn

 

[Kevin_56]

i love these threads... opcorn

Went from valve check to what oils is used. Not checking your clearance, Clarence has nothing to do with oil.

 

[nhdiesel]

Synthetics don't sludge up as they can withstand much higher temps.

They have many great properties, and when changed often don't sludge up much (my 50k mile ST with 10k mile Mobile-1 changes looks like new on the inside), but synthetics CAN sludge up. Below are photos of a GM Ecotec engine with a bit over 100k miles iirc. It had Mobile-1 since the first oil change, changed at 25k intervals, which many synthetic users believe in. My 270k mile Jeep engine with 10k changes with dino oil is MUCH cleaner in comparison. Yes, that Ecotec had to be changed. When I ran Amsoil in my 4-stroke snowmobile (3k mile suggested change interval), I changed it at 1500 miles. When I used synthetic in my KLR, I usually went 2k miles on a change, except the one time i was on a 2800 mile trip. I go with 10k on my ST because it gets longer rides, less cold starts, generally used easier, and it racks up more miles (more highway, less city use).

Oh...and the valves on this engine were fine...it was the bottom end that gave out.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Give it up, Jim. You can't question an Amsoil proselytizer, or have a reasonable debate, you'll be dismissed as "ignorant." They drank the Kool-Aid.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

You can't question an Amsoil proselytizer

:BDH: love the kool-aid remark John!

 

[Fortunet 1]

opcorn Really funny how sold people are. Here's one (on that subject) where the forum member went out to the garage and read word for word what it said on the oil container.
DANG !! It must be true if it says it right here !


"Compared to conventional hypoid gear lubricants, Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 performs exceptionally well over a wide range of temperatures. Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 achieves this through a unique proprietary formulation that delivers optimized viscosity as a function of temperature properties together with the highest level of inherent formulation stability and protects against thermal and oxidative degradation, wear and corrosion, and viscosity loss associated with premature shearing. It also can be used in extended service and for aiding in fuel economy performance."

Back on subject: 43,000 miles with two checks & No adjustments needed yet

 

[Fortunet 1]

 

[nhdiesel]

Ok, easy way to get off the oil subject- oil has nothing to do with the valves. Valve seals are at the tips of the valves, so unless you have bad valve seals, your choice of oil has little, if anything, to do with either valve guide or seat wear.

 

[JPrieST]

After having torn down an engine with over 200k mi on Amsoil, and an identical engine after 80K on petropium oil, I've seen first hand the difference. The Amsoil engine was still within factory specs and clean as new inside.

Begs the question, which amsoil are you using?

Begs the question, Why did it need tearing down?

 

[nhdiesel]

The valve seals are not designed to stop all oil from getting past them. They regulate the amount of oil that gets to the valve stem. If the didn't allow enough oil to get by to lubricate the valve stem they would wear out in no time.

You are getting no more than a few drops of oil per thousand miles to the stems and guides, not like they are seeing a constant supply...hardly enough that one brand, or type, of oil would make any noticeable difference.

 

[ardykay54]

Checked the valves at 16 and 32 thousand. In spec and no change. Skipped the next two checks and ate Milky Ways and drank Kool-aid!!

 

[Fortunet 1]

Checked the valves at 16 and 32 thousand. In spec and no change. Skipped the next two checks and ate Milky Ways and drank Kool-aid!!

Thank You ! Perhaps those other gentlemen (at the other table) don't realize this isn't another oil thread discussion.