Idle Speed Adjustment-ST1300

[bobframe]

My idle speed (after bike is fully warmed up) is too high...around 1300. Prior to this week, the idle was set at 1000 and a friend increased the idle to help with a battery that had konked out overnight.

While the friend was resetting the idle speed he complained that the idle screw seemed "stuck", but he still managed to increase the speed by 300RPM. I'd like to reverse this and set the idle back to 1000.

I have tried to lower the idle speed, using the Service Manual instructions (page 3.15...adjusting the Throttle Stop Screw Knob using a Philips Head screwdriver) but have been unable to make any change in the setting. When I turn the screwdriver, the entire assembly turns...and when I release the screwdriver, the entire assembly springs back. It appears that the assembly is frozen and won't rotate.

I've read numerous posts about this...but want to ask if I've overlooked something.

Where do I go from here??

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Metalman]

(1)Try holding the throttle slightly open. It takes the injector lever load off of the screw. Sometimes it's enough to let the screw turn. (2)Try turning the knob with your fingers.....easy does it. Work it back and forth. Otherwise you'll have to lube the cable and screw.....good luck with that.

 

[bobframe]

(1)Try holding the throttle slightly open. It takes the injector lever load off of the screw. Sometimes it's enough to let the screw turn.

Nope...the entire black adjuster knob and the assembly behind it rotates and the then springs back to the original position.

(2)Try turning the knob with your fingers.....easy does it.

Nope...can't reach it- the cowls are still attached. Also, when I turn the adjusting screw (above) the black knob also turns, so I don't think turning the knob itself would change anything...but I could be wrong. Am I missing something here? Was hoping to not have to remove plastic. Looks like that's not going to work.

Otherwise you'll have to lube the cable and screw

Any suggestions on how to do this?

 

[Igofar]

Depending on the climate of where you live, I'm guessing the cable is rusted (common).
Try putting a few drops of Marval Mystery oil or PB Blaster on the end of the cable and allow it time to work its way down.
If this does not help, you may have to remove the fuel tank, air box assembly, air base assembly and lube the cable from underneath.
If you try and force it, you WILL snap the cable, and end up doing it all to replace it.
.02

 

[bobframe]

Depending on the climate of where you live, I'm guessing the cable is rusted (common).

I think the bike has been in the South its entire life..it's an '05, so it's probably enjoyed some humidity.

Try putting a few drops of Marval Mystery oil or PB Blaster on the end of the cable and allow it time to work its way down.

Which end would you apply the oil from?

If you try and force it, you WILL snap the cable, and end up doing it all to replace it.

Yeah, it has that feeling of "if you turn me just a bit more, I'm going to break and make your life miserable"...so, I'm trying to go easy.

 

[Igofar]

I've had really good luck with a product called PB Blaster. Its the best penetrating oil I've ever found.
I get mine at Autozone in California, not sure if you'll be able to find it there or not. If you do, I use a needle oiler,
and would place several drops on the screw itself, then try to reach the cable and put some there too.
Hopefully it will run down to where it needs to be. Its not really hard to remove (lift) the tank, snorkels and airbox base
to get to where you need to get to, you just need a JIS screwdriver, or you'll end up stripping the allen screws in that area too.
.02

 

[Metalman]

Turning the knob with my fingers just gives me better "feel" of the binding. If it ever slips, even the slightest, I can usually feel it.
I retired from a machine shop where we repaired equipment of all kinds. We settled on PB Blaster and Kroil for penetrating oil years ago.

 

[bobframe]

Turning the knob with my fingers just gives me better "feel" of the binding.

I attempted to do this, but it just feels bound up to me. I can tell that the knob is turning the cable and the cable is freely turning where it passes through the "housing" just before it disappears into the engine.

 

[Metalman]

It's most likely the screw itself or the cable at the screw end, so you're probably going to have to remove the air box. Worst part can be getting the screws out of the snorkels. Be sure and use a JIS screw driver or an impact driver. The screw heads are really soft.

 

[Igofar]

You can order some JIS screwdrivers from McMaster Carr for about $25 bucks for a set of three. It will be the best investment you'll make towards tools for your ST!
Stop by an Office supply store and pick up a Paint Pencil (sharpie brand) in white. When the time comes to remove the snorkels, simply mark each one LF, RF, LR, RR, etc. Then scribe a line on the base of the snorkel, and the housing so they line up where they were easier. There are small triangles on the body and base, but most people find them hard to see and use. The paint really stands out for those of us with aging eyes.
.02

 

[Mick]

You can order some JIS screwdrivers from McMaster Carr for about $25 bucks for a set of three.

If you're not familiar with JIS (I wasn't) the reason for getting the JIS screwdrivers is discussed here:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/jis-screwdrivers/

and here:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?120560-ST1300-Idle-Screw&p=1535066&highlight=#post1535066


Here is the link to the McMaster-Carr site:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdrivers/=jqrqsn

I got the 3 piece set that Larry mentioned. It's listed at the very bottom of the page.Very good quality.

 

[Throttlejockey]

I found a few different sets of JIS screwdrivers elsewhere w/o the #3 tip. Do you guys use the #3 at all?

 

[Igofar]

I found a few different sets of JIS screwdrivers elsewhere w/o the #3 tip. Do you guys use the #3 at all?

I've used the #3 size on several different JAP Dirt bikes. Yamaha uses large head #3 screws alot.

 

[bobframe]

Update: Man, I feel like an idiot. No wait...I AM an idiot.

My fast idle problem seems to have cured itself.

I have a very good friend with a serious MC collection (including a number of race bikes) and a full time mechanic. I was able to impose my "problem" on them and while en route I noticed that the idle speed was exactly where it was supposed to be ...around 950-1000. I showed up at my friend's barn with he and and the mechanic waiting for me. And no problem apparent.

"I swear to you guys...it was running at 1300 a couple of days ago".

Actually the mechanic came up with an explanation that may be reasonable.

The diagnosis from his perspective was that the changing idle speed could have had to do with the "battery drain down" that occurred nearly simultaneously (some extensive headlight aiming brought on a fairly depleted battery next AM). Sounds plausible to me.

As for the non-responsive idle adjuster...I'm going to have to have a better reason to tear the bike apart than not being able to adjust the idle speed.

Anyway, hope I haven't wasted too much of your time. Good news...I have a very nice set of screwdrivers on the way!!

Bob

 

[Metalman]

Never waste a chance to get more tools....

 

[bobframe]

Never waste a chance to get more tools...

Exactly.

 

[Igofar]

You'll like your JIS screwdrivers! I've removed several airbox snorkels & bases with mine, without damaging a single screw!
I never did understand why anyone would suggest using an impact driver on plastic parts? With the proper tools life is so much easier.

 

[Metalman]

I never did understand why anyone would suggest using an impact driver on plastic parts?

Never could understand NOT using a tool that would get the job done.

 

[BakerBoy]

Your idle will also raise a little if your fuel level is low.....

How is that Larry?

 

[Igofar]

Not really sure, it just always seems that when my bike was down to one or two bars, that the idle was always one line faster than normal.
Perhaps I'm just getting old, and remembering two strokes

Never could understand NOT using a tool that would get the job done.

I've removed several sets of snorkels with just JIS screw drivers and hand pressure.
I can't see a reason to use an impact driver, instead of the proper tool.
I guess you could use a chisel and hammer "to get the job done" but why