What if you don't have the JIS screwdriver? OP didn't. The impact will get the job done. Give it a rest.
Idle Speed Adjustment-ST1300
- Thread starter bobframe
- Start date
You order the correct tool to do the job as he did, then do it correctly without damaging anything.
Your now qualified to work at a Honda Dealership Service Department
I'm just teasing, no disrespect intended.
Then why say it?
Throttlejockey
Padden is my hero
Back pedaling!
acedantinne
Site Supporter
Bob, did u get the throttle turned down/lowered??? Every Winter when I go over the ST, lube cable with a bicycle cable lube from Finish Line brand.
If U can try steady pressure turning it. That is how I manage to turn it up.
If U can try steady pressure turning it. That is how I manage to turn it up.
I would like to do this to mine before it gets difficult to operate. How do you work it into the cable? Are you able to do it from the knob end?
OP
OP
Is this Bob (ACE??)??
Check my earlier post...it appears to be a miraculous case of self healing. I know the idle was running at 1300 on Friday...but by Tuesday, it was back to normal.
All I did was whine about it.
No, check that...I did fiddle with the adjusting knob/screw. I'd turn it one way, then the other and repeat...maybe that did something to affect it?? No idea what's happening with the idle...but as of right now the idle is where its supposed to be, the idle adjuster won't budge (actually it will "budge"...it will maybe make a 1/8-1/4 rotation and then it offers enough resistance that it seems to be saying "No Mas, por favor"). I am not inclined to tear the bike apart to fix something that, at this point, is only a "theoretical problem".
Last edited:
OP
OP
I'd like to know this as well.
acedantinne
Site Supporter
No, for me that is. I work it it in from the end at the throtlle bodies. Work idle adjuster all the X to keep it working. I do it every Winter. I also lube with sil-gel the high idle shaft sensor/ lack of better description, put lube on q-tip wipe on.
I'm much better at showing than typing. sorry about that. U can turn my idle adjuster by finger tips. When runiing full electric I turn up idle, Winter X to 1100 rpms. Just me I guess. Last battery on bike lasted 8 years.
As a factory trained HONDA mec. we used MAC tool hammer Impacts. Just to let U know. They were the preferred Impacts. Wer talking late 60's early 70's. QUOTE=Metalman;1540627]I would like to do this to mine before it gets difficult to operate. How do you work it into the cable? Are you able to do it from the knob end?[/QUOTE]
I'm much better at showing than typing. sorry about that. U can turn my idle adjuster by finger tips. When runiing full electric I turn up idle, Winter X to 1100 rpms. Just me I guess. Last battery on bike lasted 8 years.
As a factory trained HONDA mec. we used MAC tool hammer Impacts. Just to let U know. They were the preferred Impacts. Wer talking late 60's early 70's. QUOTE=Metalman;1540627]I would like to do this to mine before it gets difficult to operate. How do you work it into the cable? Are you able to do it from the knob end?[/QUOTE]
acedantinne
Site Supporter
Bob, work it back & forth. Just a little each week keep it from freezing up.
I'm working on that light adjustment for you. have U tried turning with screw driver???
I set mine in the middle position, than turned with screw driver to set. That way u can move light up or down from dash.
I'm working on that light adjustment for you. have U tried turning with screw driver???
I set mine in the middle position, than turned with screw driver to set. That way u can move light up or down from dash.
OP
OP
I have looked under the headlight and can see the adjuster. I tried turning with screwdriver and felt like I was applying more force than I would have liked. But it did turn. Seemed to me that I could control a socket on the adjusting nut better than a PH screwdriver. Needed an extension for my socket set, which I just got....so, I'm going to give it another try.
Like the idea of setting the dashboard adjuster in the middle spot.
Still not quite sure when I'll know that the headlight adjustment is right...without a target, how will I know when I'm done?
acedantinne
Site Supporter
Bob, have to give me a little X to fine how to aim head light article.
I'll post as soon as I fine it. It might be in my Pa. inspection books.
I adjust mine as i ride. fron the dash. Mostly low beam .
Bob, I believe U have to have key on when making headlight adjustment? Been so long will check on that for sure tomorrow.
So sorry for piece mealing this.
I'll post as soon as I fine it. It might be in my Pa. inspection books.
I adjust mine as i ride. fron the dash. Mostly low beam .
Bob, I believe U have to have key on when making headlight adjustment? Been so long will check on that for sure tomorrow.
So sorry for piece mealing this.
Last edited:
It is important to note that the idle speed screw/cable on the 1300 is not a cable. There is no cable to lube inside a sheath. The screw turns a flexible "tube" that is rubber coated. In my experience, the dry tube rubs on the rubber mat and could get "pinched" against the mat by the throttle bodies, making it difficult to turn. When others say that they tried to turn the screw and the whole thing was turning, this is the way it is supposed to work. It is possible that the adjuster at the linkage end could be sticky but I would look at the cable/tube rubbing first. If I was having issues, I would probably shoot a quick spray of silicone into the abyss where the tube goes and see if that helps. There are, what I think a couple of bends in that tube that are sharper than I would like as well and routing the tube when you have the throttle bodies off is critical... @CYYJ has a write-up somewhere on his throttle body Re and Re where he has pics and a description of the tube/cable design (i think thats where I saw it. Sorry if I am wrong on that)
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
The idle adjuster is on the right side of the engine just above and in front of the cylinder head. No tools are normally required to adjust the idle speed.
See the pictures in the below post for the location of the idle speed adjuster. It is accessible without removing anything.
You should describe in more detail what is happening. i.e. Under what conditions, what temperatures, what engine temperatures, etc..
If the idle is screaming high when the engine is hot, it is probably not the idle speed adjustment but rather a problem with the cold start SE Thermal valve system.
Idle Adjustment Cable & Holder
CYYJ
Michael
@Andrew Shadow , I think you inadvertently uploaded the wrong photo - that is a photo of the preload adjuster.
Below are photos showing the location of the idle speed adjustment.
Note that in the photos above, the knob assembly has not been fitted into the U-shaped bracket that holds it in the desired place. It is still loose, because I just finished installing the throttle body assembly (which includes this cable) before I took the pictures. Installing the knob into the U-shaped holder is easy, you just slide it into the holder.
Michael
Below are photos showing the location of the idle speed adjustment.
Note that in the photos above, the knob assembly has not been fitted into the U-shaped bracket that holds it in the desired place. It is still loose, because I just finished installing the throttle body assembly (which includes this cable) before I took the pictures. Installing the knob into the U-shaped holder is easy, you just slide it into the holder.
Michael
Last edited:
CYYJ
Michael
This is probably the post that @Bmacleod is referring to: Excessive Idle on cold start up. Hopefully there might be some useful information there.
Be aware that the idle speed control assembly (the little knob that you adjust, and the cable it attaches to, and the whole mechanism under the throttle bodies that it adjusts) is very susceptible to fouling (interference preventing proper operation) from all the other stuff under the throttle bodies - other cables, mats, parts that get in the way, etc.
Michael
Kevcules
Site Supporter
The idle adjuster is on the right side beside the valve cover. It’s a black knob with a philips (jis) screw in the center. Use a screwdriver to adjust it.
The knob is locked in place when pulled out. You must press “in” before you try to turn it. When you’re done, pull “out” on the knob. Its easier to turn if you turn the throttle a little first. Make sure your engine is at 3 bars before you adjust.
The knob is locked in place when pulled out. You must press “in” before you try to turn it. When you’re done, pull “out” on the knob. Its easier to turn if you turn the throttle a little first. Make sure your engine is at 3 bars before you adjust.
CYYJ
Michael
Hi Kev:
It appears that there is a lot of misinformation here on the forum about that idle adjustment cable - with various folks, some of whom I highly respect, advising that you need to turn it with a JIS screwdriver, or turn the knob, or describing other "special" ways to operate it.
When I had my throttle bodies off (the cable is part of the throttle body assembly), I had a really good look at it. I ordered a new adjustment cable, replaced the old one, and took the old one apart. It is a single monolithic assembly, more like a flexible rod than a "cable" - it is not a Bowden cable in which a small cable within a sheath rotates. So it doesn't matter what you twist - the knob, the outside of the cable, or the screw - the whole damn thing turns. That is probably why it is so susceptible to fouling - if anything is pressed up against the side of that cable anywhere along its path, it won't turn.
See this post for more information: Idle speed
Michael
Bingo, I was half right ... no pics but that write up was what I remembered reading that clued me in to how the "cable" works. Good explaination
Kevcules
Site Supporter
Good information Michael. I initially turned the knob, but was advised to use the screw. Good to know either way works.
Using the screw is just easier because you can barely touch the knob with the fairings on. The important thing is to recognize that the knob moves in and out. Out is locked in place.