I would not use a general torque chart. Honda specifies a torque for that specific application.
Having said that, I have yet to replace any bolts, use loctite or torqued (torue wrench) any fasteners on my 1100. The only fastener that has loosen was the philip headed screw on the plastic side panel.
I think you missed my point. On the 1100 Honda used normal bolts for the caliper mounting, but on the 1300 they changed to a type of bolt that stretches upon being torqued, I think these are called 'yield' bolts. As such, they eventually stretch too far to be used again and must be replaced, and Honda recommends changing them every time you remove that bolt to take the caliper off. My point was why change something from a simple fastener that works just fine, to a more complicated bolt that works no better and needs periodic replacement. I've seen those types of bolts used on cylinder heads of cars (specifically a 5 series BMW that I did a head R&R) but that's not something that you remove periodically so it might make sense in that application. Also, torquing down a cylinder head is actually torque critical, so yield bolts might have some advantage in that application. Using one on a part of the bike that's removed with every tire change seems strange to me, so I was questioning Honda's rationale for doing so. The reason for posting the torque chart was to show that there are many simple fasteners available that can easily take the 31Nm that Honda specifies for that bolt, and in fact much higher, so using a yield bolt was certainly not because there was no other option available for that torque application. I wasn't suggesting that anyone use that torque chart as a guide for torquing that particular fastener, the Honda torque spec had been mentioned multiple times prior in this thread so I thought that was obvious, sorry for the confusion.