Need Help Troubleshooting Audiovox CCS-100 Install on ST1100

[Terk91]

Folks,

I have installed a new (had for 3 years in box) CCS-100 on my '91 ST and it will not engage. I have tested everything and cannot find the problem. I have 17" of vacuum at the servo and have reservoir installed, I get a red LED signal when all controls are pushed, I even disconnected the purple wire and hooked straight to ground on the battery but no engagement. I have the blue wire connected to the blue/yellow on one of the coils and read voltage at the unit. I have one and seven dip switch on and the rest off and have the jumper removed. I have also removed the gray and black VSS wires. Could something be stuck in the control unit? I get the power light on the switch when I turn the unit on. I am at a loss. I leave Saturday for a week long trip and would LOVE for this thing to work. Open to all suggestions.

Baxter

 

[Terk91]

I have read some posts on other sites regarding stuck solenoid valves. Has anyone on this site had any experience with the inner workings of the control unit?

 

[Terk91]

I took the unit apart and was able to actuate all three solenoid valves w/ 12v and they all seem to function properly. I was not able to read the signal to the valves from the unit since I have no way to simulate rpm to the input. It may be some faulty component on the board.

 

[stmike1300]

I used the instruction on this site.Purple to brake wires green&yellow,blue coil,2 black wires to ground,red 12v all the time,orange 12v switched, remove gray wire switch light,& remove black cable for magnetic pickup.Make sure brake switch is working properly,also the cc cable can move freely.

 

[Terk91]

I was reading just now on Murph's site where I purchased the CCS-100 and on a tutorial someone posted they included some troubleshooting. They state that when the bike is running and the CC is on I should see the red LED flash and the flashes should increase as the RPM'S increase. I do not see this and thus my coil connection may not be good. I did check voltage at the connector on the servo and am reading some voltage. I guess I need to recheck the connection.

Do others see the blinking red LED when the bike is running and the cruise is on? I have never seen this mentioned anywhere else.

 

[Terk91]

Well, another update. I did find the rpm input on the wrong coil terminal based on the "flashing LED" info I got from the Murph's web site and now it works, only it jerks when I set the speed and shuts off. I have not researched that issue yet. Anyone experience this? I tried setting dip switch four to ON but that did not help. It pulls the throttle hard for an instance and then shuts off. Strange.

 

[Rossi]

I looked on the net and found the following page with links to others. I hope it helps.

http://will.mylanders.com/mc/st1100/audiovox/

http://will.mylanders.com/mc/st1100/audiovox/fadkins_install.pdf Added a direct link.

 

[Terk91]

Thanks Rossi, yes I know this site well. I believe I have everything sorted out except for the way it jerks and shuts off when I press set. I may either not have the dip switches set right or it may be my technique as I have not used one of these before.

 

[stmike1300]

are you on the stand or out on the road,it will act that way when on the stand.

 

[the_gr8t_waldo]

sounds like the dip switch settings....try #'s 1,4,7,-on, all the rest off

 

[Terk91]

I just road tested the unit again after making sure that no o-rings had fallen off when I had disassembled it. I get the same result, when "SET" is pressed at 35mph I get a surge from the throttle and then the bike starts to slow (no cruise engagement). I checked the cable linkage and it appears to be OK with a slight amount of slack at closed throttle. Anyone experienced such characteristics from their units before?

 

[STranger]

I've not worked on this item on a bike before but.......maybe a shot in the dark.

Is it wired in a way the brake light cuts the cruise????? If so did you wire this correctly? Instead of to the running light which would cause immediate shut down.

 

[Terk91]

Well, I fixed my problem by Google. I was searching "troubleshooting CCS-100" and one of the hits directed me back to this site. It appears that Brad Felma had the very same problem I am having several years ago and solved it by switching the number 7 dip switch to off. I tried the same thing and now my CCS-100 works perfectly! My current settings are 1 ON, 4 ON and the rest OFF.

From the thread I mentioned:

Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions. I have now identified the issue.

As I was pretty confident, everything was hooked up in the correct place and with solid connections. This was purely a config issue.

All of the install instructions I've seen (including Ray's ST1300 ones) instruct the reader to connect the blue wire from the CCS-100 to the ground terminal of the coil, and set the SW7 to "on", meaning tachometer feed. The other selection is "off", and means it's connected to an ECM (engine control module, AKA computer). I had everything set dead-on as instructed, which I can say now with authority is completely wrong for my ST1100.

Perhaps the instructions previously posted are correct for the ST1300, and perhaps even for an ST1100(ABS/TCS), but for my ST1100, it's wrong.

I perused my factory Honda ST1100 manual and looked at the wiring diagrams, and noticed that the ground wire I'd connected to (the blue/yellow on the coil feeding the left bank of cylinders) went straight to the computer. On a hunch I set SW7 to "off" to denote connected to the computer.

The CCS-100 immediately started working properly. In fact, it's super-stable down to about 15mph in first gear even with no vacuum canister at all.

I am a very happy man. I dreaded heading off on a 10,000 mile journey with no way to rest my right hand, after going through all the effort of installing cruise control.

 

[CarSalesman]

I am fighting the same battle as Terk, but unfortunately not so successful. I have an ST1300 with a new Audiovox kit from Murphs. Its one of the recent kits if that makes any difference. The power light comes on with the cruise on/off switch, but no engagement. The throttle cable does not attempt to move at all.

I verified the purple wire to the brake switch. To be sure I tried with the purple wire disconnected, and again with it grounded.

All the online tutorials show the coil wire being attached to the top terminal, but I also tried it on the bottom. FYI, the power light does not flash, but I'm not sure its supposed to. I guess the top/bottom orientation on the coil is not a good method to identify because the original wires will go on either way. Which color wire is the ground on the ST1300 coil? As far as the bike running, does it make any difference which one goes on which terminal?

I have 1-4-7 on, the other switches off. I tried turning off 7 as Terk suggested, but no joy.

I have good vacuum in the hose where it meets the servo.

This is a new kit, its possible there is a dead component, but I'm not ready to blame the parts yet.

 

[CarSalesman]

Terk - in followup to one of your messages above - does your power light now flash? That might help indicate where my problem is.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

The blue CC wire is supposed to be connected to the blue w/yellow stripe coil wire. That's what I did and it's worked well since day one on my 91 SSMST1100. FWIW

http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=33

 

[CarSalesman]

John - thanks for the tip but my installation is on an ST1300. Keep those suggestions coming - I'm stumped at this point.

 

[Terk91]

Hi Don,

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but have been on the bike up to DC. CCS-100 worked well but I will have to switch 4 back on because I get too much throttle when the thing sets and it actually hurt my gas mileage.

If you get a light on all switch inputs but the light does not blink w/ the engine running you are not getting RPM signal to the unit. The LED blink rate should increase as RPM's increase. This was not explained to me in any documentation that I could find (except for one post on this forum back in '07). That was when I switched the input dip switch from coil to ECM and it began to work. Not really sure why, since EVERYONE else pretty much has theirs set for coil. I made a Y connector and hooked mine between the coil and the blu/yel wire on my ST1100. Keep playing with the input as that is probably where your problem lies. Does the brake circuit light the LED when activated? It is breaking a ground when the 12v gets applied to the bulb.

I used mine in our group of three riders but unless I was in the front it was kind of a PITA to play w/ to maintain their speed. I have a Throttlemeister that I used most of the time. I still get hand cramps/tingling but that is another story. Good luck w/ your system - I am sure you will get it worked out. I will have to pull the left upper fairing to get to mine to adjust the dip switch but thats OK, it is at least out of the heat.

Best regards,

 

[CarSalesman]

Terk - I think I found the problem. During the install I wanted to shorten the harness to the switch. The harness has a break-apart connector to the switch. I cut that out on both sides, shortened the wires, then soldered the back together. During that process I apparently switched two of the wires with each other. I fixed that, and was able to get engagement on the center stand. Of course on the stand alone, the engine quickly revs so the cruise disengages. That's why you can't run it on the stand. I haven't had time to actually ride since then, so I can't yet declare it fixed - but I'm hopeful.

 

[Terk91]

Sounds like you got it Don. I will be returning mine to have dip switch 4 ON instead of OFF so it will not lurch when engaging. I can put up with the lag over the drop in gas mileage.

Good work!