New Adjustable Levers for ST1300 - AMAZING difference!!

Tried the link above to track my package. It only showed that it left Hong Kong. Then linked me to USPS.com (US Postal service). Typed in my tracking number and all the info came up. It looks like they ship from Hong Kong to USPS for local delivery, so tracking is easier than it seems.
Yeah,I noticed that too. But it took a while for it to show up on usps. All haven't received mine [emoji34]
 
But it took a while for it to show up on usps.

Right. It doesn't get tracking here until the USPS gets the package.

I got mine earlier than I thought. They do need to be tightened at the adjustment joint. I've got to dig up a teeny tiny socket (5-6mm?) and maybe smaller Allen wrench.

The "longer" lever is about .5" shorter than stock. Not enough to make a difference especially with the lever much closer to the handlebar. The machining looks really good.

I hit a snag with the Pendle Parking Brake though. It's not compatible and I see no way to make it so. I'll run without it and see if its absence annoys me. It would probably work with GoldWing levers but they need modding and don't line up like these do.
 
Still waiting for mine. USPS still shows that it was shipped. Nothing more. Ordered a week ago.


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Ordered 5/12 trekking shows out for delivery today. So 2 weeks. Not too bad considering where they are coming from I guess. Either way, I'm excited.
 
And there here.
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And an unexpected bonus, two nice cases to store the old grips in long trip for that just in case scenario.[emoji2]
 
Got mine today. Only took about a week or so for shipping.
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Easy peasy to install.


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Installation instructions:

- Take box out of mailbox.
- Remove levers from box.
- Marvel at the new shiny bling.
- Use a 10mm wrench to remove locking nut on bottom pivot screw on the existing levers.
- Use a flat blade screwdriver to unscrew the top of the pivot screw. This will unscrew a long way.
- Hold lever and pull out pivot screw.
- Lubricate the new lever pivot hole and the 'lobe' that touches the brake piston.
- Hold new lever in place with one hand and slide pivot screw back down into pivot hole.
- Use screwdriver to tighten the pivot screw.
- Use 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut onto bottom of pivot screw.

The clutch side is slightly different from the brake side. There is a small brass "plug" that contacts the clutch piston. Just be careful it doesn't fall out and get lost when you remove the clutch lever. It is visible even before you take off the old lever so you'll know where it is. Lube and install in reverse order. The clutch piston rod goes into the hole in the brass piece (makes sense when you see it).

The whole operation took me about 10 minutes including gathering tools and putting them away.




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Installation instructions:

- Take box out of mailbox.
- Remove levers from box.
- Marvel at the new shiny bling.
- Use a 10mm wrench to remove locking nut on bottom pivot screw on the existing levers.
- Use a flat blade screwdriver to unscrew the top of the pivot screw. This will unscrew a long way.
- Hold lever and pull out pivot screw.
- Lubricate the new lever pivot hole and the 'lobe' that touches the brake piston.
- Hold new lever in place with one hand and slide pivot screw back down into pivot hole.
- Use screwdriver to tighten the pivot screw.
- Use 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut onto bottom of pivot screw.

The clutch side is slightly different from the brake side. There is a small brass "plug" that contacts the clutch piston. Just be careful it doesn't fall out and get lost when you remove the clutch lever. It is visible even before you take off the old lever so you'll know where it is. Lube and install in reverse order. The clutch piston rod goes into the hole in the brass piece (makes sense when you see it).

The whole operation took me about 10 minutes including gathering tools and putting them away.




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Thanks so much for the detailed write up jt. I am brave with electronics and wiring (adding farkles etc.) But I am chicken sh#t when it comes to things that can prevent me from stopping.
In my head I squeeze the brake lever, screws go flying and lever falls off, coming up to a corner, with a giant deer waiting in the middle of the road who wants to play chicken [emoji12]
 
Ha ha.

I was thinking of flying parts when I took the old levers off, but it was really uneventful. I only dropped that little brass piece and lucky for me it didn't run away and hide somewhere.

Hard to mess up the install. No worries. Even if the pivot screw came loose, it is really long and it should be noticeable before it became dangerous.


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A word about reassembling both levers: the pivot screw is threaded and the acorn nut on the bottom of the assembly is a lock nut. There is play between the levers (factory or otherwise and the housings at the mounting points. This play can be reduced by tightening the pivot screw.

Tightening the lock nut further reduces the play but can add drag on the levers. Too tight and the levers won't move or won't return to their neutral position. And you want the lock nut fairly tight so it doesn't fall off. Just be aware of the interplay between those two pieces as you tighten things up and then check the levers for smooth free movement when your done.
 
Ordered them last Wednesday and they showed up today................that is an amazing delivery time for this part of Canada! Look really good....have to do the install and try them out :)
 
I took the bike for a spin yesterday and the clutch was a joy to use. But I noticed that starting the bike in gear with the clutch in worked intermittently.

It seemed to be a function of where I set the selector. With the clutch out but set to the closest position to the bar the bike wouldn't start. Moving the selector one click at a time took me to the highest setting before the bike would start again. Even then sometimes it didn't. Since the bike is normally in Neutral whenever it's started I didn't notice this behavior.

I'll remove the lever and check it's profile agains the factory lever and make sure the switch is clean. I can hear the micro switch clicking in the higher positions but not in the lowest two or so. I'll look more closely at it in a couple of days. Anybody else notice this?
 
I took the bike for a spin yesterday and the clutch was a joy to use. But I noticed that starting the bike in gear with the clutch in worked intermittently.

It seemed to be a function of where I set the selector. With the clutch out but set to the closest position to the bar the bike wouldn't start. Moving the selector one click at a time took me to the highest setting before the bike would start again. Even then sometimes it didn't. Since the bike is normally in Neutral whenever it's started I didn't notice this behavior.

I'll remove the lever and check it's profile agains the factory lever and make sure the switch is clean. I can hear the micro switch clicking in the higher positions but not in the lowest two or so. I'll look more closely at it in a couple of days. Anybody else notice this?

mine does the same thing on the closest setting
 
I always start in neutral, no problem there. I'll have to check this out. Would be good to know if the engine stalls in gear.


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mine does the same thing on the closest setting
I Finally installed mine, quick, easy ten minutes. They look great and feel great, but as stated above will not start unless it's in the third setting.
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Do you guys think or know if those would fit ST1100? Otherwise, do the levers match from 1300 to 1100?

thanks

Mark
 
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